Baller. :D
Funny thing is, the rotors are only $35! The hats were $150 each because they required machining, but I picked them to work with the "8 on 7" pattern rotors as that's what circle track guys use, and the volume drives down the price significantly. I was warned by the guy who sold me the hats & rotors, Todd @ TCE, that I might not have enough rotor mass to get a lot of life out of them. My plan is to run a few events, inspecting after each, and make that call then. The next option up in terms of rotor is easily 3x the cost of the UL-32's, and would need to last me >3x as long to justify the switch.

The test caliper was purchased NIB (but two product generations old) with new pads for $40 on eBay. The current plan is to find a used, matching/mirrored one for the passenger side and rebuild it. I will have a virtual chit-ton of very affordable pad options with these calipers, and rebuild kits are cheap and easy to install compared to Z32 ones.

I am working on the mounting bracket now, but it should be pretty simple. SS lines should only be ~$10 each through Jegs or Summit.

Not so baller after all, eh?

Funny thing is, the rotors are only $35! The hats were $150 each because they required machining, but I picked them to work with the "8 on 7" pattern rotors as that's what circle track guys use, and the volume drives down the price significantly. I was warned by the guy who sold me the hats & rotors, Todd @ TCE, that I might not have enough rotor mass to get a lot of life out of them. My plan is to run a few events, inspecting after each, and make that call then. The next option up in terms of rotor is easily 3x the cost of the UL-32's, and would need to last me >3x as long to justify the switch.

The test caliper was purchased NIB (but two product generations old) with new pads for $40 on eBay. The current plan is to find a used, matching/mirrored one for the passenger side and rebuild it. I will have a virtual chit-ton of very affordable pad options with these calipers, and rebuild kits are cheap and easy to install compared to Z32 ones.

I am working on the mounting bracket now, but it should be pretty simple. SS lines should only be ~$10 each through Jegs or Summit.

Not so baller after all, eh?

Meh, sounds like you're time-rich... :D

Lemme know how it works. Though I won't do that for the racecar (stupid points), it might make sense for the SE-R and other toys. BTW, was the caliper you got one of the forged ones, or the billet ones? People have had leaking issues with the older cast/billet ones.

Meh, sounds like you're time-rich... :D
Job is agonizingly slow right now. :(

Lemme know how it works. Though I won't do that for the racecar (stupid points), it might make sense for the SE-R and other toys. BTW, was the caliper you got one of the forged ones, or the billet ones? People have had leaking issues with the older cast/billet ones.
I will post something after I have everything hooked up and have an event under my belt.

I have the "second gen" ones, the Superlite II's. Did the "people" you mentioned ever try rebuilding them? :D

Just make sure to make the mount solid. We welded ours onto the rear passenger side frame rail behind the wheel well. I just welded some 1" box steel together that was a little larger than the perimeter of the battery on its side, then welded some bolts to it for posts. I used a 1/4" thick piece of Al as a top strap and called it a day. Works pretty well so far, though we have thankfully not tested it yet...
Here is where it is now:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/BattRelo2_02.jpg
Before you ask, it's solid as fack. :)

I plan to have some beast brackets welded to the cage just above where you see the battery now, and turn the battery back on its side. I think a removable piece with some insulation for the positive terminal will do me.

I could also be convinced of another plan, as long as it doesn't interfere with the passenger seat.

Relocating the GReddy coolant temp sender...

Tapping OE piece for 1/4" NPT:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/CoolantSender_01.jpg

1/4" NPT x 1/8" NPT adapter:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/CoolantSender_02.jpg

Close-up of GReddy and OE ECU probe:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/CoolantSender_03.jpg

Mounted:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/CoolantSender_04.jpg

I'd like to put it in the radiator hot side when I finally get an aluminum one.

Oil cooler pics...

8"x11"x1.5" Tru-cool core, 36-row with used NASCAR CF duct attached:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/OilCooler/CFduct_06.jpg

Oil block swap:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/OilCooler/OilBlock_01.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/OilCooler/OilBlock_02.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/OilCooler/OilBlock_03.jpg

The filter:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/OilCooler/filter_02.jpg

Core mounting:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/OilCooler/CoreMounted_01.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/OilCooler/CoreMounted_02.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/OilCooler/CoreMounted_03.jpg

Plumbed:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/OilCooler/Plumbing_01.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/OilCooler/Plumbing_02.jpg

That shizzz is serious! Looking sharp!

where would one get such a wild oil filter setup?

That shizzz is serious! Looking sharp!Thanks!

where would one get such a wild oil filter setup?I pieced everything together from various sources:
filter: Canton-Mecca
check valve and most fittings: British American Transfer (BATInc.net)
lines: used NASCAR from eBay and new fittings put on at BMRS
CF Duct: new NASCAR part from eBay
oil cooler: used from a friend, but identical to what you can find on RacerPartsWholesale
aluminum brackets and sheet: my garage leftovers, mostly from Lowe's
Tomei N2 oil block: i forget

I intentionally did not use a thermostat because I don't think I need it (despite what others may say). I idle the car to warm, and take warm-up laps on track, and don't do a lot of shut-down-start-up stuff or drive it before it's at least semi-warm.

VIR-Full, October 11/12, CarGuys:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/EventPix/VIR_Oct2008/Paddock_002.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/EventPix/VIR_Oct2008/Paddock_003.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/EventPix/VIR_Oct2008/Paddock_004.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/EventPix/VIR_Oct2008/Track_001.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/EventPix/VIR_Oct2008/Track_002.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/EventPix/VIR_Oct2008/Track_003.jpg

WOW holy mother of jesus. Im not sure what I did with my life before I found this thread!!!!!! Glad I finally found a link that worked for your site to. Car looks great and best of luck on all.

WOW holy mother of jesus. Im not sure what I did with my life before I found this thread!!!!!! Glad I finally found a link that worked for your site to. Car looks great and best of luck on all.Glad to hear you're enjoying it. I haven't done the best job of keeping it updated, but plan to this Winter with some stuff I have going. The biggest project will be removing everything from the interior and painting it (FINALLY!)

-Andy

Here is where it is now:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/2Fass240us/Project_240/BattRelo2_02.jpg
Before you ask, it's solid as fack. :)

I plan to have some beast brackets welded to the cage just above where you see the battery now, and turn the battery back on its side. I think a removable piece with some insulation for the positive terminal will do me.

I could also be convinced of another plan, as long as it doesn't interfere with the passenger seat.

Lol, like my response time? I'm going to actually subscribe this time... :D

What's to keep it from coming out the top?

I have the "second gen" ones, the Superlite II's. Did the "people" you mentioned ever try rebuilding them? :D

Yep. The piston holes were warping, making a rebuild a waste of time.

Forged is the way to go. I rebuilt the billets twice and cracked several pistons (shitty pads) but I could never get them to work right (aka stop leaking) switched to the forged and theyre perfect.

What's to keep it from coming out the top?magic

Lol, like my response time? I'm going to actually subscribe this time... :DWay to be on the ball, Steve-o!

Yep. The piston holes were warping, making a rebuild a waste of time.Forged is the way to go. I rebuilt the billets twice and cracked several pistons (sh*tty pads) but I could never get them to work right (aka stop leaking) switched to the forged and theyre perfect.That doesn't bode well for the prior generations, especially considering the premium some people are asking. One guy has been trying to sell a Superlite IIA on eBay for $118 for 3-4 months now. I've offered him $60, then $80, then gave up. I've thought about messaging him again to let him know what an idiot he is, but I minuswhale yell at my cubicle wall.

You guys are using these for racing, correct? Meaning they might be OK for an occasional romp around the track and DDing? I ask because a friend is thinking about buying my Superlite IIA and finding a matching one.

magic

Might want to remedy that. :D

You guys are using these for racing, correct? Meaning they might be OK for an occasional romp around the track and DDing? I ask because a friend is thinking about buying my Superlite IIA and finding a matching one.

Jose's using it for street use. I've never used them myself, but most of my experience comes from watching other people use them (to little avail).

I used mine for "spirited weekend" driving. If they cant handle that abuse, I wont trust them on track

Might want to remedy that. :DMeh. Like I said, I'm going to re-do it eventually. Plus, it's in there tight enough that it would take a barrel-roll to get it out.

Jose's using it for street use. I've never used them myself, but most of my experience comes from watching other people use them (to little avail).Get some, son.

I used mine for "spirited weekend" driving. If they cant handle that abuse, I wont trust them on trackAgree.

From what I gather, the Superlites (any gen) aren't best-suited for FWD applications because of the typically higher offset wheels. Any comment here Jose? What hat offset are you using? Any details on your setup would be appreciated.

Meh. Like I said, I'm going to re-do it eventually. Plus, it's in there tight enough that it would take a barrel-roll to get it out.

Shit, then why mount it at all? :D

Get some, son.

Using those points somewhere else, like Aero and maybe a bump steer kit. Car already outbrakes most everyone else and never fades as it is.