I searched... but sort of lost..

ANyhow..

Installed a New Clutch, 6 puck Dual Sprung from Proclutch...

Problem...

1.
I need way more adjustment... I have tooo much Freeplay on the pedal, the clutch grabs RIGHT off the floor... But I have like 2inchs (or so it feels) of freeplay/toe room..

2.
Clutch Cable is all the way TIGHT.. if I loosen it up, the Clutch Pedal will stay to the ground, so my adjustment is way out of wack! I want to make sure its proper so I can break the clutch in correct!


SO.. Searched the forums and noticed people talking about Drilling the Clutch Cable Bracket.. however could not find pics so I was lost there!

Also seen information about the 1.6 Clutch Cable.. So I pick one up and installed that!

For the 1.6 Cable, I have all the SLACK OUT.. as in the LOOSE as it gets.. I had to fight to get the cabel back on the ARM going into the tranny.. So the adjustment is really the same.. helped a bit .. but still not correct in my book..

I also adjusted the Pedal Height.. played with that.. did not do much..


Recap :D

1.6 cable installed = all the way loose (any looser and the thumb wheel is falling off) and still not the proper adjustment.. still too much freeplay.. and I cant tighten her up other wise we are talking mad strain on the ARM and Cable.. which is a no no.. there should be freeplay on that arm going into the trannny

2.0 cable installed = Cable TIGHT .. no more thread to tighten her... still way to much freeplay on the pedal.. If I loosen her up..pedal goes to the ground and will not spring back..

SO any thoughts?

If some one has a picture of the "Bracket Drilled" please post on... on and the spacer trick too..

Thanks

Make sure that the cable you get is an actual OEM Nissan cable. Any other form is junk and will feel like complete crap and break real easy. Get a 2.0 cable and then just weld a spacer on the black cable bracket off the tranny for a little added tension... works like a charm.

David

well here i found a pic, sorry for using it without permission, (whomever originally took the pic).

this person used a spacer to effectively get the cable/clutch in the right adjustment area.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/myprojectb13/PICT0045.jpg

also some people re-drill the holes in that bracket instead of adding the spacer. basically you redill the holes that mount the bracket so it would move the bracket toward the firewall once inch (so it basically does the same thing as the spacer)

one question i have for you, did you have your flywheel resrfaced, if so was the step machinined in, if so, what was the step measured at? i believe this has alot to do with it.

Thats my pic there, it works well for my ACT XT pressure plate.

"and I cant tighten her up other wise we are talking mad strain on the ARM and Cable.. which is a no no.. there should be freeplay on that arm going into the trannny"

Well if you don't have tension on the arm and cable, you are going to have free play in the clutch pedal.

Large up mon!
I'll try that spacer trick out..

Thanks for diggin up them picks.. this is gonna help big time!

[QUOTE=Sub_Function]1.6 cable installed = all the way loose (any looser and the thumb wheel is falling off) and still not the proper adjustment.. still too much freeplay.. and I cant tighten her up other wise we are talking mad strain on the ARM and Cable.. which is a no no.. there should be freeplay on that arm going into the trannny
QUOTE]

I dont understand this. you are saying with the 1.6 cable installed and leaving the adjustment loose then there is too much pedal play. OF COURSE!!! you need to tighten it to get the pedal play out. You wont hurt your tranny arm by tightening it. you shoul;d be able to tighten it as much as you can by hand, As long as the clutch if fully engaged when you let the pedal out then there is minimal pressure on the tranny arm...

[QUOTE=Sub_Function]1.6 cable installed = all the way loose (any looser and the thumb wheel is falling off) and still not the proper adjustment.. still too much freeplay.. and I cant tighten her up other wise we are talking mad strain on the ARM and Cable.. which is a no no.. there should be freeplay on that arm going into the trannny
QUOTE]

I dont understand this. you are saying with the 1.6 cable installed and leaving the adjustment loose then there is too much pedal play. OF COURSE!!! you need to tighten it to get the pedal play out. You wont hurt your tranny arm by tightening it. you shoul;d be able to tighten it as much as you can by hand, As long as the clutch if fully engaged when you let the pedal out then there is minimal pressure on the tranny arm...

Aight playa play...
let me re-state this shit..

I know loser means more play and grabs lower on the pedal..blah blah..

Its all the way lose because if I were to Tighten the cable anymore it would be too short ,thus, could not connect to the Tranny Arm... (keep in mind i connected the Pedal first!)

Not sure if I picked up the OEM Cable or not.. but this 1.6 cable is pretty short and needs all the slack out of it to even HOOK UP to that arm.. which is why I am saying the arm has lil play.. where the stock one had a good amount of play which again has no stress to it.

sooo. yeah..
:rofl:

I wanna know why this problem all of a sudden is apperaing on all our SR20's. What about the clutch set ups have changed over the years? It has ot be something, either a T/O bearing or PP because I never had to do this before. The last two clutch installs I had ot redrill brackets.

I just posted to the mailing list about this. Ray K says to move the adjustment nut up over the pedal for more adjustment.

I use the spacer and it works fine for me. When I installed my JWT PP/2001 disc I needed it. When I swapped my motor and installed the Jun Flywheel & Clutchnet PP & Disc, I didn't need it and removed it. I put about 1500 miles on it, and then one day when I was on the track at Pocono my pedal dropped about an inch to the point where it can sometimes be difficult to get into 1st or reverse. I'm going to put the spacer back on and be done with it.

Supposedly Adreas has 'The Answer' to this.

He says,

"The clutch bracket does have a 3 spacers suplied with it. 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 but like I said the spacer is not the real problem. 90% of the clutches I install use no spacer or the 1/4 inch spacer. That is because I solded the true problem."

What spacers is he talking about?

Pertinent links here
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?p=539524#post539524
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=49806
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13054

http://sr20.net/gallery/albums1/Clutch/aaf.jpg

C

Chris - I ended up ditching my spacer in the pic above and going with the same piece you have there. I also removed the rubber bushing on the clutch cable, and it made my XT PP feel so much better.

yo, thanks for the pics and links..

One of these days this shit will work out..

Prettywhite : man I wish I only knew.. I spent a good hour or more reading about the same issues we all are having with Aftermarket Clutch kits... or Hybrid Kits...

I dont think its the T/O Bearing.. but I could be wrong..

It just bugs the shit out of me knowing the clutch is not Adjusted right... The Spacer looks like it may work well..

The Re-Drill as well..

thanks again!

Well, I figured out why my clutch pedal went down so far at the track. Turns out I lost the bottom bolt from the bracket, and it tilted way down, effectively lengthening the cable.

Looks like I won't be needing that spacer after all.

C