Well at first my car ran fine. I was running 5 series plugs and now I run 6...my gap is at 25..I even checked the coil which had a ohm of 11.07 versus my other 2 spares who were 9.5 area so I assumed the lower the better. It still did not fix the problem So I then installed a 255 lph Walbro Fuel pump. I even got a new distribitor cap. as people have been telling me it has to be spark related. This is the problem my car falls on its ass randomly at abuot 6.5k and sometimes 7.2k ...I mean the Tach goes no wear with the pedal too the floor it just stays in one place. I thought it might have been spark related so checked the plugs again I was told 25 is more then enough for my setup which is....
T25 turbo setup Front mounted top mount with JWT ECU 370 CC and stock MAF. I also have S4 cams. one minute the car is fine one minute it pulls this. I really need some help on this one you guys. i'm running stock boost. I figure at the most i'm making 200 whp so I couldn't be hitting fuel injectors or MAF I have the 2 1/4 crush bend with no CAT. one thing is I am not running a O2 sensor currently. Why would it run fine for 2 weeks and then start doing this. Will buying an 02 sensor completely fix this problem? I really need to know what I need to do to get this fixed as it sucks at the track.

Thomas
turbo 92 SE-R that needs help

any information is appreciated guys stab anything at it

Well A list member told me this trick and well I see some Arching..by the distribitor cap I can see it through the distribitor cap though when I touch it...but i can see it on some of the wires by the distribitor cap I'm wondering if this is my problem or its something else I see no arching at all on the head. and the person that had a turbo car and the wires were the problem said they got sputtering I do not get this I get staying at 6.5k with the pedal to the floor. No sputtering at all. Very odd Give me some insight guys

This happened to me once. The car would not rev past 5000 with me though. Pedal to the floor and still would not go past, almost like a fuel cut or something. I changed out the front O2 sensor and it stopped doing it. Cant say for sure if that was the problem but it seemed to work for me.

I've seen that with aftermarket/old dist.cap,rotor, and wires. You've either got resistance in the cap and/or wires....or, even an open wire shorting to ground. Have you done ohm's tests on your wires too? Do you have any trouble codes? I have seen tps do that too. Good luck.

is 9.5 better then 11.07 or is 11.07 better? and how do I do ohm tests on wires how do I check them? thanks guys

wait, did you just say that you could see the spark arcing from the dist cap? if so, then that is your problem right there, and whenever you reach a certain rpm, not enough spark is getting through to the cylinders to ignite the fuel. kinda like an MSD 2 step rev limiter. this happened the other day on my friend's 5.0 mustang when one of his wires touched his header, melting through the insulation and grounding it out on the header, making the car hesitate and sputter (only did it to one of 8 cylinders, if your dist cap is arcing, it would do it to all 4) only at a certain RPM under load.