Note: This thread originally was online, but was mistakenly deleted. Old backups were used to get it back, but it had to be manually copied-and-pasted here.

Original thread started by Ben.



I've seen this happen too many times now. Mark did it, Eric Tucker did it, John Minnic did it, probably many others.

Turbo+clutch+ECU/injectors+intercooler system+MAF+ (edit) head swap+ES bushings all around, etc, all this crap should NOT be put on at the same time. If after you put ALL this in and it doesn't run right, then what did you monkey up? You have NO idea because you installed too much at once. You NEED to do a turbo install in STEPS.

This is assuming you have a stock clutch and no turbo system yet (stock injectors).

Step 1: The first thing you should do is put in the clutch. Break it in 500 miles. No less, and baby it. After 500 miles, test it. If it seems EXACTLY how you want it (clutch cable adjustment, no gritch, etc) then go to step 2.

Step 2: Get the proper JWT ECU/injectors/MAF combination and install them, NA. Run that around for a week or so, again, WITH NO TURBO SYSTEM. If this runs well, then go to step 3.

Step 3: If you are installing cams, do that next. I expect the ECU has the S3/S4 program already in you ECU that you installed in Step 2 so your idle will be good. And it's NOT JUST FOR YOUR IDLE QUALITY, it's ALSO to make it easier to set your timing properly!!!

Step 4: Now, and only now, is it time to install your turbo system. Manifold, turbo, oil feed and return lines (drilling and tapping could have been done anytime in the past, but it's ok to do it here too), intake and intercooler piping, wastegate (if external), recirculation valve (have to be politically correct in the Nissan world, can't call it a blowoff valve), boost gauge, downpipe, possibly more gauges. Now if it doesn't run right, it can be attributed to the mere components you just installed.

Life is MUCH easier this way. Please follow it. You will thank me.

You might even add more steps. I plan on doing drilling and tapping as a step in its own (potential for oil leaks from a bad pan install). The install of gauges might also be a good step in its own prior to final assembly. It would give you a chance to correct any oil/air leak issues as a result of installing the gauges.

-saaby

I wish I read this a yr ago

This is my first post on here or any form for that matter so I hope I'm doing this right. My question is I have a 92 ser with 167,000 miles. I herd that I can get a mitubishi turbo and being a welder I can make the manifold and tubing needed but was wandering if I need to change any thing else to make it work ign, ecu, injectors ect. I'm only looking for about 6 psi top. Any help would be greatly appriciated

If i am not using a JWT ECU and using an emanage or safcII, should i install that at the same time as the turbo?

If i am not using a JWT ECU and using an emanage or safcII, should i install that at the same time as the turbo?
just substitute jwt for your engine management

from what i can tell, JWT does not provide an ECU for 2000+ G20's

from what i can tell, JWT does not provide an ECU for 2000+ G20's
right i meant when they say jwt you can substitute it with whatever engine management you are running... so at that step with the injectors and maf you would do the same but with your safc..

as for that if you really want to go jwt there do sell wire harness conversions here on teh forum that will go form b14 to 00+ p11 (i have one) pm me for more info

When should new pistions be put in?

When should new pistions be put in?
read your post wrong the first time... as Stratton said below. Mostly if your trying to lower CR.

when u need them. u may or may not need them depending on the circumstances.

stratton.

Going to be turbo'ing a Nissan Primera 2.0 GT engine, I'm sure I'd need to change the compression ratio?

I've done a bit of homework and someone has used Pulsar GTiR pistons to do this, but not sure whether they were forged or original ones...

whats the compression ? is it 9:5:1 or 10:1 ? if its 9:5:1 its perfect for a turbo, oviously dont expect 400 plus reliable whp out of it. if its 10:1 i would change the pistons depending on your whp goal, but u could prolly go with a t28 and a good tune and be safe.

u really should start a new thread though, ull get alot more help.

stratton.

ok im confused as to why the thread title says "how NOT to go about a turbo install"?

I thought you ARE supposed to do everything in steps like listed above??

^^^ The title is refering to this part of the first post...
Turbo+clutch+ECU/injectors+intercooler system+MAF+ (edit) head swap+ES bushings all around, etc, all this crap should NOT be put on at the same time. If after you put ALL this in and it doesn't run right, then what did you monkey up? You have NO idea because you installed too much at once. You NEED to do a turbo install in STEPS.

Everything after that first paragraph is what YOU should do when turboing a car.

yea i figured it was sarcastic lol

Hmm this looks like what im after. or at least you sound like the guy i want to be talking to!
I want to put turbo on my SR20DE. I dont want it fully worked i just want to make it a stock SR20DET. What parts need to be changed/added to do this?

drilling and tapping could have been done anytime in the past, but it's ok to do it here too


Hey

first of all awesome guide.

Just wondering where abouts you tap the oil/water lines. In the block but where abouts.

Thanks alot :)

I can definitely tell this is going to help alot! ty so much =]

Hey

first of all awesome guide.

Just wondering where abouts you tap the oil/water lines. In the block but where abouts.

Thanks alot :)

FYI. You don't tap either. You can use your water lines from your throttle body, to cool the turbine. They aren't really necessary on the TB, unless you live in a REALLY cold environment. In order to get your oil feed, just buy a custom steel oil adapter, or a Nissport oil adapter. The Nissport goes in the place of your stock oil sending unit (dummy light). Then you put the sending unit on the end of the adapter, and you have three ports for oil temp gauge, oil feed line, and oil pressure gauge. You don't have to use all ports, as the adapter comes with block off inserts.