I need new o-rings for my ve inj. I had the de inj. in with de ecu and maf, and they didn't fit right in the fuel rail and car wasn't running right.

Anyway, switching back to ve everything. I ordered some de inj o-rings (the big ones at the injector tip (part # 16636-53j00) , but they are too large for the ve hole where the injector mates with the engine. Anyone know or can get a part number for the ve inj o-rings??? Be much appreciated.

Could just use the old one's but I tightened the de inj down too much when I put them in (partly because they didn't fit right-- they are slightly longer than the ve inj) and damaged the o-rings slightly, so I need new ones.

Did you put them in properly, ie Lubed them up? I would have thought theyd be the same?

My FAST shows 16618-53J00 and 16618-10V05 for the two o-rings on a P11 VE motor.

Every US dealer should have a ton of those in stock, I know we do....

Lalito...as promised, I have installed the Autometer A/F ratio meter (yes my o2 sensor is fine) and here's what it shows...LEAN idle, Stoich at low load partial throttle any rpm. Rich at low rpm heavy throttle. Rich at WOT cams ON. pretty normal really...maybe your O2 is in need of testing? that'll cause excessive fuel consumption.

Factory loom, factory ECU, factory every thing but WAI, Impul header and exhaust and 5 speed gearbox conversion.

Good Luck with it dude
Andy

Yeah same as stock (orings that is). I was actually looking for the ruber insert between the fuel rail and the engine. It's part number 16636-41b00 according to courtesy nissan.

The o-rings on my injectors (ve) look perfect so I'm not going to change those.

Madandy, I figured out by having the de ecu with de inj, and maf, that between shifting and while costing the revs drop to almost idle speed. In the ve ecu, ve maf, ve inj, the car just runs much better, but the revs don't drop as much between shifting and while coasting. This is probably why in the city I get crapy mileage. I'm guessing that is because of the cvt issue with the sr20ve ecu keeps the revs up because it doesn't know there is no cvt. Maybe with a sr16ve ecu it would not be a problem because it is made for manual.

However, I am convinced now that any de ecu setup with sr20ve motor (either de maf, ve inj, or de maf, de inj., doesn't run very well compared to the ve ecu setup. Jw ecu I'm sure is best, if you want to pay $600.

I think sr16ve ecu is probably a good compromise. Just wish I could get one cheap!

My revs drop right back when i shift...and your ecu wasn't doing the cam switching either was it? I'm sure now it must be in the ECU wiring...as mine still engages the cams and drops the revs when shifting gears..

Since you have MSS I'd save up the $600 and buy the JWT ecu...thats the key to great performance...a well sorted engine management unit.:)

Yeah, I adjusted the idle control valve and know they drop down again when I shift, but I did have that have that problem with the cams not switching with the sr20ve ecu. Either that or they switched really high. Not sure which.

--eduardo