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15's give really nice low end, However from my personal experience with them, I noticed that they are not as punchy as 10's or 12's when it comes to quick bass notes. This isnt tested just from what I feel and hear from my personal experience. I just like to listen to my music nice, crisp and clear.
Im happy with my one 12 inch pushed with 800 watts. Sounds clear and full even when I want to just bump some bass.
To answer your question, yes you will have enough bass, just make an enclosure built to the specs of your sub. Also choose the right amp as far as rms power and fequency responce and your cool. Be sure to use a DVC 2ohm model better wiring options with a mono block.
Best of luck with your set up. Post some pics when its done.
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Cheated on the sentra with a 240 , I wouldn't have it any other way.
Fully built DET is on the way.
I previously had a punch p3 10", but upgraded to a 12" P3, and a p600.1bd amp from RF. Those two together are buttah! Crisp, clean and gives your belly a rumblin', if you crank it up Perfect, for a B14, IMO.
I previously had a punch p3 10", but upgraded to a 12" P3, and a p600.1bd amp from RF. Those two together are buttah! Crisp, clean and gives your belly a rumblin', if you crank it up Perfect, for a B14, IMO.
yes. P3's are what got me looking at 12's again. I loved the bass it put out. I went to bestbuy, and they had the two setups together, the single type R, and the single P3, and I liked the type R better for the sound I'm looking for. I originally wanted a P3, but the R was $25 cheaper, and just more for me.
I like 10s better I had a KIcker L7 15 in the car ...it was loud plenty loud I had a Rockford power bd10001 pushing it ...but I like the old Soundtream referance 10's I have now I have three of them on the same amp in a custum built vented box and it will hit really good if you turn it up but the sound quility is awsome ....
when looking in to Subwoofer size you need to look at what frequency range you are trying to produce and how much space you have. Bigger Subs will Naturally play lower frequencies but will have problems with the higher frequencys. so if you have 4.5 inch speakers in your car now you are not getting alot of sound from then in the 500-20 range so you want a speaker that will play that range well. A 10 to 12 inch world work better for this. If you have some 6x9 or 6.5 they accuratly play as low as 80 hz (pioneer puts the graph right on the box). in this case a 15 inch sub would slam that range. But as with everything it all depends on your personal taste so i recommend listening to the sub in a sealed box supported by speareks of around the same size and quality as yours at the store before you buy.
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200sx - Turbo, NOS, Carputer
350z - Pioneer HU
Agreed. In my other 200sx, I went with a 10" enclosure, and had 6.5" 3 ways in the front, and 6x9" 3 ways in the rear deck. I actually overpowered the driver in the trunk as the front and rear speakers were competition grade, and drowned out the driver a bit. Now, it's perfect in the new 200sx with 6.5" in front and rear, and a 12" driver.
when looking in to Subwoofer size you need to look at what frequency range you are trying to produce and how much space you have. Bigger Subs will Naturally play lower frequencies but will have problems with the higher frequencys. so if you have 4.5 inch speakers in your car now you are not getting alot of sound from then in the 500-20 range so you want a speaker that will play that range well. A 10 to 12 inch world work better for this. If you have some 6x9 or 6.5 they accuratly play as low as 80 hz (pioneer puts the graph right on the box). in this case a 15 inch sub would slam that range. But as with everything it all depends on your personal taste so i recommend listening to the sub in a sealed box supported by speareks of around the same size and quality as yours at the store before you buy.
That's exactly what I did when looking at the Type-R. They had 4" Pioneers, so I just used those with the R, and it sounded amazing. I'm going to get Polk 4" just for the higher power handling, and better quality, and I think I'm going to eventually throw some 6x9's in individual boxes in the back of the wagon for added sound. I can't wait.
If you are doing a boombox with a 15 inch sub you need at least from 12 to 18 inches of dimension in the box just to sound right.
Most of you guys wont agreed with me but my recomendations are get two 10" bazooka tube with JL subs and a good class D amp, i would suggest Phoenix Gold and believe me that is going to be one of the cleanest and nicest bass you will hear.
Not to show off, but before i moved to FL, I was sponsored by PG and I got 33 trophies for clean sound. The subs are 15" and the boombox has a 16" dimension on each subs.
Had a 15" I was going to use in my sentra when I first got the car, traded that for a bunch of service work on my car from a nissan tech bud, and got 2 12" RF punch subs, and a beefy custom box, with a 1400w amp.
2 years later, kept the amp and box, and went with 12" JL W6s. It was loud. I was happy.
Gave the whole setup for free to my bud down the road after last winter, not wanting to reinstall it all after ripping it out 4 months previous. Took 4 hours to get it all wired up in his Ranger. Now it's REALLY loud. Hehehe.
I had two Cerwin Vega Vega Series 15's in my XE sentra with two Soundstream Rubicon 1000watts amps one powering each sub. I could pull up to your house with my music up and literaly shake your walls. My neighboor came out laughing one day when I was messing with the system cause she said I was making the pictures on her wall damn near fall off. There house isnt that close to ours lol.
Those Cerwin 15's were loud as sh*t and dropped down LOW. They were as clean as some 12's but a regular ear would never notice the difference.
The cleanest subs I have ever heard at super low frequencys are some Infinity Perfects (and Ive literaly heard and played with hundreds of systems). They are honestly so clean sounding that Ive been through about 5 pairs of them. They have a problem with blowing all the time (its not me, its the speaker) but they sound so damn good that I used to be willing to go buy another set when they blew.
__________________ 1993 Nissan NX2000 w/ 1998 SR20DET Avenir motor w/ so many mods it would be stupid to list them all and more coming!!!!!
old school MTX 2300 wired mono to one 15" MTX thunder 7000 in a sealed box. sounds great. loud. super low. precise. just not quite punchy enough. smaller subs usually have better attack.. maybe this setup with two thunder 7000 10s instead.
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92 SE-R,JDM SR20DEHighport,K&N,HotshotHeader,2.5" Megan Racing Catback,MSD SCI,Blaster 3 Coil,FSTB, Gspec Stg.2 Clutch,WeaponR Coilovers in back, Pro-kit up front, KYB GR-2's,17X7 Tenzo AV7's(white),Kuhmo AST,Falken Azenis on stock rims,Powerslot&Brembo Rotors,Axxis MM,Goodridge Lines, awaiting t-25 boost.....
RedB13SE-R is correct in saying most car audio subs are much sloppier than correctly functioning home or professional subs. They are like that on purpose.
While it is certainly true moving more air is always preferred, the 15's story is originally called West Coast sound; while the smaller tens and especially 12's are more notably "East Coast Sound". The difference is mostly the efficiency of the speakers and design improvements of the cabinets. Bose, for instance, used only 5.25" speakers utilizing a reflex box system, active crossovers and audio enhancement to create unparalleled clarity. Speaker size is not as important as the entire Theil Small formula which takes into speaker efficiency and volume, reflex and porting of the cabinet, as one sum.
Every speaker is designed to work under 1 condition of boxing.
The only way this is not true, is if the voice coil and cone have been re-designed for a different cabinet, but using the same basket, driver and spider. Every quality speaker manufacturer has specs on the exact cabinet and power you need.
I recall the Solobaric kicker was a great example of a very good sounding 12", it however was very power hungry and required a very high power amp and cap to run without distortion at high volume. Not the good kind, like discussed above but the underpowered kind, which kills any speaker, when under powered or running on a weak designed amp. many people bought them and used "fred's" amps to power them without caps and they sounded like crap. Not the speaker's fault. Solobaric means 1 cubic foot of sealed box space. Not 1.2, 1.5, 1.8 or ported. They also required a solid 600 watts, as a single, (800W when twinned); of power to really reach potential.
Same with JL 10". Powered correctly in the right box, they are great. They can be used in ported boxes very efficiently, but require massive clean power or they burn up, even at low levels.
Steazracing is also very correct, as your mids will be lacking, unless you have a pair of 7-8" fills somewhere in the mix and properly crossed over. The Dyne Audio 7's or 8's are very good at this, if you like quality components, but locating them affordable can be tricky. Finding the correct placement in the car can be even trickier, *** they need to hit your ears, not each other.
A sign wave must travel 11.5 feet to complete a wave at 20hz, so technically, you WILL NOT HEAR ANY TRUE bass unless you are outside of the car! Impossible. I don't care what anyone says.
That said, the distortion you are hearing, like in properly powered older 12" kickers, was classic because when coupled with an old school high power Mos FET class D or better amp; they were inefficient in a way which sounded like the entire wave, through flutter in the voice coil and low freq. vibration at an octave in the key of "E" or "A".
This is the same effect we hear with tubes resonance over poorly designed electronic amps; which often times resonate at "F". "F" doesn't sound good to a refined ear and feeds back as screams and high pitched wails.
This slop distortion, when well designed and powered, is good unless you plan on sitting outside of the car while your bass is active. Many people were upset when the old school Kickers changed their design and went over seas. I was lucky enough to have one before they disappeared. That one 12 sounded better than 4 15's IN THE CAR.
15's work well *** they vibrate your entire skull, like the speaker cones of the old Kickers. Same effect as slop distortion at the cone. I prefer my cone to vibrate, over my brain; thanks. But if you insist on hearing the system three blocks away, 15's are much better.
The closer your power amp is to very expensive, stable at 2 ohms or better with an 80's US made power supply, the better. Orion amps are great for this purpose. They are still out there, if you look around carefully. Many sell for what they cost new!
The guys who couldn't get sponsored by a military power supply manufacturer called them "Cheater" amps, because they were sour grapes about having to pay much more for the internal P/S components. (Most couldn't come close, including several companies mentioned above).
Many people bought low powered out-put head units which only serve the amp 2- 3 watts.
This gets reduced to 2 over ten feet of wiring. Unless you start with 5-6 watts, your active EQ may have 10 feet of circuit board, so your amp is receiving low power signal, distorted from power degradation. Not good, when shoved through your MOSFET 2 ohm amp, or your super efficient high dollar subs. If you are using quality amps with a "Do it all" head unit, your system is getting poor power to the amps. Good component head units are rarely less than $600 and do not have any internal amp, period. the only thing sticking out of the back should be power, ground, remote and three pairs of RCA outputs.
Copper at the correct gage is very important with class D amps. Expensive de-oxygenated fat clear wires are BS. Use thick copper not thick insulation making the copper LOOK thick. More dealer BS. Solder everything. No clips, No wire nuts, no plugs, no twist and tape short cuts. Tin every connection if you must use a connector. If your battery post grows fur, what do you think your sloppy radio connections do?
Unless you have a pile of money, find good quality old school amps and speakers.
Most Chinese made amps have poorly designed power supplies. Not ISO 9001.
You get what you pay for with audio. It helps if you know what you are looking for, before you wast your time and money. Just like turbo's and "friends". Speakers for hip hop and heavy bass are not the same for strings and violins.
My system is old speakers, old amps and old head units with high clean power supplied to every component. It's amazing how cheap the good parts can be found for; because installers want to "sell" New, poorly made amps and speakers to fools.
Good capacitors are very expensive. They are required to save your electrical system and pre-amp power source. Crap caps leak and destroy speakers when they run at odd power levels. Flashy LED lit amps cost you more money to replace blown parts, when the circuits melt down. These manufacturers know where to put the junk caps, so you blow the entire system, all at once.
Old amps are what you want, at any price.
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Matty Moto
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92' SE-R "The Red Barron"
92' SE Grocery Get'r
Last edited by Matty Moto : 09-17-2007 at 03:24 AM.
I can say from personal experience that if you are looking for a loud setup the a 15 is the way to go. I am currently running 2 15" Kicker CVX subs in a vented enclosure and 2250 Planet audio amps. I was recently pulled over from 8 blocks away. no b.s. hehe I have the noise violation ticket to prove it. none the less it reall all matters on what you listen to. techno and fast, quick beat songs I would recomend 10's or 12's. if you listen to all sorts, then 12's. rap or bassy music 15's
, I wouldn't have it any other way.
Perfect, for a B14, IMO.
