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Go Back   SR20 Forum > Main Forums > Audio & Electronic Accessories



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Old 12-08-2007, 12:41 PM   #1 (permalink)
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The Big 3

I am planning out my stereo system. Before I buy and install all the stuff, I want to make sure I did the Big 3. I am only going to be running at 600watt RMS amp from Alpine to an Alpine Type R 12, along with Alpine components in front and coaxials in back, and an Alpine HU. I already re-did my grounds (batt to chassis, chassis to engine). I just need to run the wire from the alt to the battery. Now my question is, would you recomend running a fuse with this wire? If so what size fuse? Along with what size wire? I was thinking about 4 gauge, because my amp also is going to be using 4 gauge. I searched for a while and I couldn't find anything. Maybe I didn't look hard enough.

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Old 12-09-2007, 02:18 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allmotornx2k View Post
I am planning out my stereo system. Before I buy and install all the stuff, I want to make sure I did the Big 3. I am only going to be running at 600watt RMS amp from Alpine to an Alpine Type R 12, along with Alpine components in front and coaxials in back, and an Alpine HU. I already re-did my grounds (batt to chassis, chassis to engine). I just need to run the wire from the alt to the battery. Now my question is, would you recomend running a fuse with this wire? If so what size fuse? Along with what size wire? I was thinking about 4 gauge, because my amp also is going to be using 4 gauge. I searched for a while and I couldn't find anything. Maybe I didn't look hard enough.

TIA
~Mike
I'm assuming you're talking about the wire to the amp. Sounded like you're asking on the wire between the alt and the battery, in which case just use what's stock.

For the battery to the amp, 4 gauge will be sufficient for that amp, and a minimum 60amp fuse. Don't go too high, that'll take away the fuse purpose. A 60a will do just fine for your 600watt amp. An easy way to figure your fuse needs is take the max wattage of connected amplifiers (not RMS) and divide by 10.
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Old 12-09-2007, 02:24 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Oh im sorry, I ment the wire from the alt to the battery. lol. So don't run a second wire? Isn't running another wire from the alt to the battery part of the Big 3?
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Old 12-09-2007, 02:55 AM   #4 (permalink)
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No. You don't do anything from the alternator to the battery. You leave the stock wire as it is.

As far as in line fuses go, from the battery to the amplifier, I generally just run a fuse with a rating equal to the combined rating of the fuses installed on the amplifier.

For instance, if I have two 30A fuses on the amplifier, I'll run no larger than a 60A fuse in line from the battery to the amplifier. (You could do what wingman suggested, but my max wattage rating is 1100w, and I don't feel safe running a 110A fuse in line, being that both fuses on the amplifier are in fact 30A fuses)
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Old 12-09-2007, 08:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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oh ok, thanks guys!
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Old 12-09-2007, 08:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allmotornx2k View Post
Oh im sorry, I ment the wire from the alt to the battery. lol. So don't run a second wire? Isn't running another wire from the alt to the battery part of the Big 3?
uhh. I don't know what the hell the other guys are talking about, but yes. Alternator to battery IS part of the "big three". The reasoning is that the stock wire is most likely between 8-4GA, and is filled with thick wire, as opposed to supple sound system wiring, which has a lower resistance, resulting in better charging.

If you want to put in a fuse, go ahead, if not, it's not going to kill anything.
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Old 12-09-2007, 09:30 PM   #7 (permalink)
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i've put in 4 car stereo's in my own car and several for friends and i've never changed the wire from alternator to the battery. and they've worked for years and nothing has ever gone wrong..so no, i wouldn't mess with that wire.

do 4 gauge, put a 60 amp fuse in the wire from the battery to amp, and u'll be more then fine.
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Old 12-10-2007, 12:06 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by NismoB14SX View Post
If you want to put in a fuse, go ahead, if not, it's not going to kill anything.
Since when did we forget that fuses protect? If you don't fuse the wire, an accidental groundout can cause catastrophic damage. Never leave any wire un-fused. EVER.
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Old 12-10-2007, 12:08 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by WingmanSR20 View Post
Since when did we forget that fuses protect? If you don't fuse the wire, an accidental groundout can cause catastrophic damage. Never leave any wire un-fused. EVER.
..Then why don't they fuse the wire from the factory? I didn't do this mod yet, but it will eventually end up on my car, and most likely with a fuse, but still.

I have everything in mine fused, from the wire coming off the battery, to my dist. block, everything is fused.
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Old 12-10-2007, 12:12 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by NismoB14SX View Post
..Then why don't they fuse the wire from the factory?
They do, just not with fuses. It's called a fusible link. Every car's got one. If you ground out your alternator, it goes. It's hooked to the main power supply for all car components.
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Old 12-10-2007, 12:14 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by NismoB14SX View Post
The reasoning is that the stock wire is most likely between 8-4GA, and is filled with thick wire, as opposed to supple sound system wiring, which has a lower resistance, resulting in better charging.
Solid metal has extremely low resistance and is going to be better than many tiny strands of wire. Just like solder joints are the method to keep lowest-resistance when connecting two wires. The energy doesn't need to jump between strands at higher levels. Aftermarket wiring achieves it's best results by packing in as many wire strands as possible and braiding/twisting them together. This is as close as they get to solid wiring without compromising the ability to cut and bend the wiring to specific applications.

Last edited by WingmanSR20 : 12-10-2007 at 12:22 AM.
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Old 12-10-2007, 05:52 PM   #12 (permalink)
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yeah that stock wire from the alt to the battery is fused (fusible link), i looked it up in the wiring diagram. all im tryin to do here with the big 3 is not have my lights dim and burn out my alt too soon.
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Old 12-10-2007, 06:03 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allmotornx2k View Post
yeah that stock wire from the alt to the battery is fused (fusible link), i looked it up in the wiring diagram. all im tryin to do here with the big 3 is not have my lights dim and burn out my alt too soon.
Wiring won't fix that problem. Lights dimming isn't because of the wiring, it's because of power draw. The best solution would be a capacitor in-line with your amplifiers. A cap will basically act like a secondary battery that will charge between heavy draws. The farad rating you need will vary based on your application. New wiring in your engine bay will give you better electron flow, which only means your amps can steal more power from the rest of your car (so now your headlights dim even more!)

Last edited by WingmanSR20 : 12-10-2007 at 06:05 PM.
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