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I just bought a Pioneer headunit from here on the forums. I got it the other day and was looking how to install it but it has some kind of metal slider around the headunit. What is this metal slider for and do I need it? Is this where the factory radio brackets mount on to? Anyone else have problems with getting the screws out of the stock radio brackets (the ones that mount to the radio itself)? Thanks.
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Ben
'05 Subaru WRX STi
'93 SE-R Rocketsled (SOLD)
Drive it like you stole it (or at least try to before it breaks)
Pull the metal slider off the headunit, dont need it in our cars. Remove the screws holding the brackets to the old headunit, and mount them the exact same way to the new headunit.
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94 Firebird Formula A4 3.42 [13.6@102]
[Boltons]
The metal sleeve around your new headunit is what prevents it from sliding out of the hole every time you step on the gas. put it in the factory hole where the head units goin, bend down the little tabs to keep it in place, and then the new head unit should slide into it and click into place. unless i'm thinkin about the wrong thing here....
Yup no need for the metal sleeve, B13's (and I found out today S13s) do not need the sleeves, the OEM mounting brackets mount directly to aftermarket headunits. The sleeve is needed only if you use a "Install" or "Dash" kit. To make an aftermarket headunit properly fit into an oversized (mostly domestic ive found) stereo spot.
The metal sleeve around your new headunit is what prevents it from sliding out of the hole every time you step on the gas. put it in the factory hole where the head units goin, bend down the little tabs to keep it in place, and then the new head unit should slide into it and click into place. unless i'm thinkin about the wrong thing here....
You ARE thinking of the wrong thing, and you prolly confused the poor guy!
Just use the metal brackets off your old radio like the other guys said. Then screw that in, pretty simple.
Brent
__________________ Coach - EEN Member/The Fist Don't F with me!
1993 NX 2000 -- Slate Grey Metallic bitches
1999 SE-L -- Turbo stuff on it
I had to get new brackets and screws (which do not fit in Pioneer headunits by the way) from Nissan but I finally got it to work. Now I think one of the wires which I didn't solder together has shorted out my dash and running lights. Did a search on this and it seems one of the orange lights that I left unhooked could be the problem.
What color wires should be left without a connection on the back of the radio? I think I have a black (don't need because using the brackets as ground) and two orange (can't remember what those are for). I soldered the two blue ones coming off the headunit into one and then attached that to the blue one coming off the Best Buy factory harness adaptor. Should I have done this with the blue wires? The radio works fine but I think I just need to tape the unhooked wires so they stop shorting stuff out.
It sounds like your radio doesn't have wires for the dimmer, but the aftermarket harness does. Tape those wires off, or use some heat shrink to keep them from shorting out.
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1996 200SX SE-R VE powered
1991 Sentra SE-R
2004 Subaru Forester turbo
2006 Mitsubishi Evolution IX
I think the illumination wires must have shorted out to the frame. I shouldn't have been so lazy and taped the wires.
I looked yesterday and pretty much the black, orange, and blue wires are not doing anything.
Thanks for all your help! I hate being a noob but stereo is one area I have no idea about.
Old thread, but I just bought a Pioneer radio and the solid blue and orange wires off the harness kit does nothing, but the black is a chassis ground. Am I correct? The orange says "Illumination" and the Blue is what? The install instructions do not mention them on the Pioneer harness.
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Quote:
Last edited by Shawn B : 01-16-2008 at 03:50 PM. Reason: So I could flame him harder
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonny
Sudden draws of power at the hands of a sub(s) playing some Too Short will eat away at any alternator
usually, there are two blue wires - one solid and one with a white stripe. The one with the white stripe is for a power antenna and only gives +12V when the tuner is selected, and the other is for the amp turn-on and gives +12V as soon as the headunit powers up.
Ok old thread. i waired in my knewood to my se-r 96. wired everything in the way it was with the previous stero. turn the key to on....nothing. so i un did everything and re hooked up the old stero, turned the key to on....nothing.. any ideas to what i might have fu*ked up..?
weird thing is the fuse is fine. and even when i put back in the old stero it still wouldnt work.... my \volt tester is broken so i need a new one to try it...but i dont understand why all of a sudden the power wire would go out.
So i tested. theres power geting to the deck, the ground is fine. i was bout to give up and moved the deck and it turend on for a secound. so i rechecked the connections but nothing..?....im wondering if it has something to do with the wiring harness in the car.. its werid for it to stop working all of a sudden though.
If you have the factory harness adapter you shouldn't worry about what wires should be connected. The adapter connects all the important ones for you.
----Is this the adaptor that allows you to hook up an aftermarket head unit to the factory plugs, So i dont have to cut and splice? If so where can I get one? Price?
--Sorry about raising this from the dead, but it seemed closest to what I was looking for.
Some people should not do car audio............... 
:-P
