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I know on my other stereo setups I used a fuse, is this really necessary? I have been running without a fuse for the past couple of days will not running a fuse affect anything in my car or my amps?TIA!
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Come to my HOOD talking that sh*t and I will bash your KNEECAPS EARLY!!!
I know on my other stereo setups I used a fuse, is this really necessary? I have been running without a fuse for the past couple of days will not running a fuse affect anything in my car or my amps?TIA!
you dont need a fuse but, you certainly dont want anything to happen to your amps, such as an overload or short. Your amps could get fried if your internal fuse doest break.
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The classic feels left out cause of the attention the Evo is getting.
Although, I talk to it and let her know that she is still my number 1
well the only reason I didn't use one is because the fuse holder I had broke and Iwas leaving on a trip, when I get back I will definitely by another fuse holder and fuse! Thanks guys.
Yeah, I wouldnt skip on the little things. Its those things that can matter the most later on. A little precaution never hurt anyone. I have a 150amp fuse on my sub amp. But, If I had to do it again, id buy a circuit breaker cause youll never have to buy a fuse again.
get a circut breaker, they are a little more expensive, but if you pop it, you don't have to go out and buy a $5 fuse, just pull over, pop the hood and throw the switch back on
The number one reason to run a breaker or a fuse is to protect your vehicle, protecting your equipment is simply an added bonus. Most amplifiers/head units already have fuses to protect themselves from shorts or surges anyway, and if they don't save the equipment, they were either the wrong fuse type or the equipment itself was poorly designed. Now, back to my first statement... What happens if a damaged wire creates a short circuit? (eg. Grounding to the chassis) That wire gets hot...the insulation melts off... and then one of two things happens. Some part of your electrical system fails and happily that's all. Or the wire continues to get hotter and makes contact with some sort of combustible material. Upholstery in this case. Instant car fire.
I ran a 150 amp circuit breaker right off the power from battery. Mounted it on the firewall. It's very easy when you need to work on your audio, just turn it off, you don't have to disconnect the battery terminal all the time. 3 fuses in the trunk for 2 amps and misc sound processors.
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Originally Posted by RUTH'LESS NX2K
Good point I try and find a fuse or circuit breaker tomorrow!
Also don't oversize your fuses. To me it sounds like some of you are. The fuse is there to protect the wire, not the device. 150A is a lot, you should protect a device with the proper rated fuse specified for that device. Then to protect the wire feeding that device there should be a fuse just after the battery connection and it should be the right size for that wire. A fuse at the device won't do anything for the wire upstream from it, so if that wire grounded at any point before that fuse, it's not going to protect anything, and grounding a power wire wouldn't ruin an amp anyway. The reason for the fuse at the device is so that if the device ever internally shorts to ground, that fuse will blow and there won't be any problems. The fuse is sized so that the device can draw the current it needs to operate without blowing. Now, for the question of what sized fuse to use for a given wire gauge and lenght there's really no easy answer to this question. I just use the calculator at the following link. I can't direct link it, so just go there, click on page 16 titled "Wire" and scroll down to the calculator near the bottom. www.bcae1.com You might want to bookmark that page or even purchase the CD rom copy of it, it's easily the best resource available and the webmaster is good about e-mailing you responses to questions you have, but make sure you read up first. Anyway, you input the wire gauge, length and the current draw. This calculator takes into account all the factors to determine the voltage drop that takes place in a given length of wire, at a given gauge and a given current draw. Since the current draw of your amp or amps is hopefully a lot less than the current capacity of the wire feeding it, just keep entering amperages until you get to a number that is lower than the capacity of the wire by a decent margin and use the smallest fuse closest to that number. For example, a 4 gauge wire 15' long should carry no more than 133A, so fuse it with a 120 amp fuse and you'll be good to go. If that wire ever went to ground, that fuse will pop in a few seconds, and long before that wire ever got hot enough to melt the insulation and cause a fire. If you'd like, contact me for wire, fuseholders and circuit breakers. There's a thread in the electronics classifieds as well.
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- Rob
Wicked White '08 EVO GSR "Jaws"
Last edited by Toolapcfan : 08-14-2004 at 01:40 AM.
