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Well I have a 500Wx2 amp, only one channel powering my new polk/momo 12....and now it sounds about the same at best as my old crunch 8, and I do mean OLD...so what'd I do wrong. I placed it in the cheapo roadmaster box(dimensions were actually VERY close to rcommendations)and the wiring in the box is pretty small, but not so that I thought it would make this sub this quiet. Someone PLEASE help
Well I have a 500Wx2 amp, only one channel powering my new polk/momo 12....and now it sounds about the same at best as my old crunch 8, and I do mean OLD...so what'd I do wrong. I placed it in the cheapo roadmaster box(dimensions were actually VERY close to rcommendations)and the wiring in the box is pretty small, but not so that I thought it would make this sub this quiet. Someone PLEASE help
What kind of amp are you running and what are the dimensions of the box?
Also is the box sealed or ported? If ported, how many ports and what diameter are they? These are some important variables that are need to know before a proper recommendation can be made.
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96 SE-R: SR20VE - bolt-ons
97 SE-R: GtiR - getting there - need $$$
03 Altima SE V6: alarm+remote start/Pioneer TV+DVD/MB Quart comps/US Amps TU-4360/Stinger blocks, Expert RCA's, and 0 gauge wiring/rest of system going in shortly
no just run it to a good solid piece of metal. What ohm subs are you using? You may need to change the wiring around to make the amp put out it's max potential. Keep in mind an amp can only put out as much power as it's fuse value times constant output voltage. You may have fallen for the ol box wattage trick. Ex. E X I = P so 11.5v (normal output during load) times 40a Fuse value equals 460watts. Noe this is the absolute maximum wattage this amp can put out. Even this number is not garanteed because of the changing voltages in a car and/or the output signal voltage of your head unit. Hence the box listed wattage rip-off, in all reality an amp rated 500 watts can potentially only put out 400 or less. Hope this helps everyone in thier amp shopping endeavors.
i know this may sound dumb... but have you worked with the gain at all yet? try that first. Start small when troubleshooting.... then get more complicated.
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98 SE/ 99 Tails.center reflector/ Auto folding mirrors/ Zeo BZ-12/Tein SS coilovers/JWT pop charger/ VE MAF/ JWT reprogram/ MSD window switches/ MSD adjustable RPM selectors/ Auto to Manual swap/ Clutch net clutch, PP and lightweight flywheel/ B&M short throw shifter/ Prothane mount inserts/2.5" VRS kit w. Magnaflow muffler/ Fujitsubo header
I realized the amp was only pussing 250 in bridged mode at 2 ohms, I had it on 4 ohms(speakers capabilities)at a meager 125, it needs at least 200 watts rms according to the fsm, so I will be ordering a 400rms, 4ohm, mono amp here soon and be back in service
Ok, If your sub is a single 4 ohm sub you need to run it bridged so it will operate the amp at 2 ohms. A mono block amp will help, but only with a d-4 dual voice coil sub. I don't recommend running a 4 ohm sub on a mono amp. You'll only get half power out of the amp. You need a good 2 channel amp, especially to run a single MOMO sub. They are power hungry. BTW...are you running the MM1 or MM2 series?
Ok, If your sub is a single 4 ohm sub you need to run it bridged so it will operate the amp at 2 ohms. A mono block amp will help, but only with a d-4 dual voice coil sub. I don't recommend running a 4 ohm sub on a mono amp. You'll only get half power out of the amp. You need a good 2 channel amp, especially to run a single MOMO sub. They are power hungry. BTW...are you running the MM1 or MM2 series?
How do i tell mm1 from mm2? And the mono amp I was looking at(looked at fsm)showed it'll push 400w RMS at 4 ohms which is exactly what my subs fsm claims, as well as it says I should run no less than 200(so it is out of the car )
ok mm1 is single voice coil mm2 is dual. What brand amp were you looking at? if it's a rockford, jl, kicker, extant, they use whats called CEA 2006 rating curve. this means what they say you get, you get. other companies like jbl, soundstorm, sony, kenwood, refuse to use this rating. Mainly because it'll make them look like assholes.
Ok..... of you are running the mm1 run a stereo amp rated at 1-1 1/2 times the rating bridged. If it is a mm2 you have to run an amp that is 4x the rated power to achieve the correct RMS. Too much power will never kill a sub, same with too little. but the distortion you will get from doing this will multiply the duty cycle of the sub exponentially. Hence a sub made to work 1,000,000 cycles over a given time. Will end up working that in multiples and shorten its life.
p.s. this may seem long winded but i like to teach and explain, not just blurt out something everyone will have no chance of understanding.
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