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I did some serious inspecting and playing around with the factory door grommet on my NX. Is it even possible to run wire through these grommets? if so, then how?
Is there any other way to run new speaker wires into the doors without going through the very tiny factory door loom?
Has anyone else on here run new wires into the doors on their b13?
Also keep in mind im running 16gauge shielded cable. Monster XLN, this stuff is not thin.
you know what color your stock speaker wire is right? tie the new wire to the stock and pull like a mofo thats what i did then i went to re run everything and didnt tie tight enough now its ghetto
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1991 nx2000:Black:Wrecked:Sold
1992 nx2000:White: Sold
1993 nx2000 :Electric blue:Sold
its not who you do in life, its who you leave behind. Jerry James Hays 9/1/1982-5/14/2006 Danielle Wilson 2/10/07
I used phoenix gold 12/2 stuff years ago, and what I did was to cut the grommet by the wires, stick the wire through there, cut it on the other side, and poke it through. I wound up with a visible wire, but you only noticed it if you looked... you just have to cut the grommet on the back side (behind the wire) and it is nearly hidden... and a whole lot easier to do!
I don't know if you could get a wire through that angled/bent wire loom in while keeping everything installed in the door the way it is supposed to be.
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Sweet '93 NX DE+T GT28RS- For Sale
rob your idea sounds feasible but it just seems that the factory wires take up like 100% of the space at each end of the grommet. Like the middle is small and flexible and i can work with that but the ends are pretty tough
The ** indicate the wire passing through the rubber end-gromets (NOT the wiring loom!)
The XXXXX are the position of the wiring loom in the center of the rubber gromet.
The -- are the edges of the rubber grommet.
You need to grab the wire and pull it to stretch the rubber out, then just jab a knife or screwdriver through it, poke through the wire and pull it through and you can release the main wire section, and repeat on the other side.
I used 10/2 into the doors of my 200 and here's how I got it through. I unplugged the rubber boot from both the a pillar and the door and aligned it as straight as I could, I then compressed as much of the boot as I could, then I used the rounded end of a wire coat hanger and pushed it through, taped the 1/2 to the other side and pulled it out. It also helps to spray a little WD40 on the wire. Worked perfect and once the boot was put back in place you couldn't see a thing.
I used 10/2 into the doors of my 200 and here's how I got it through. I unplugged the rubber boot from both the a pillar and the door and aligned it as straight as I could, I then compressed as much of the boot as I could, then I used the rounded end of a wire coat hanger and pushed it through, taped the 1/2 to the other side and pulled it out. It also helps to spray a little WD40 on the wire. Worked perfect and once the boot was put back in place you couldn't see a thing.
Damn. EXACTLY what I did to get my wire through the door jamb.
Works like a charm. Gonna have to do it again here shortly on the other car.
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96 SE-R: SR20VE - bolt-ons
97 SE-R: GtiR - getting there - need $$$
03 Altima SE V6: alarm+remote start/Pioneer TV+DVD/MB Quart comps/US Amps TU-4360/Stinger blocks, Expert RCA's, and 0 gauge wiring/rest of system going in shortly
i have a strong feeling the b13 door loom is much smaller and shaped differently than the b14. You absolutely cannot do what wes is talking about on a b13.
the grommet is taped around the wires in the middle there is literally no space to run new wires. Plus the loom go from the car into the door jam then down like 4 or 5 inches then into the door. There is too much material and too little space to scruch it up to try and make it straight.
However last night i did rob's idea and it worked like a charm. It was a little difficult to poke the hole, so i used the end of a philips 1 drill bit. But ran some 12 gauge wire through the hole and taped the speaker wire to it and pulled it through.
Thanks for the info, now i can finally amp and equalize all my speakers.
i have a strong feeling the b13 door loom is much smaller and shaped differently than the b14. You absolutely cannot do what wes is talking about on a b13.
the grommet is taped around the wires in the middle there is literally no space to run new wires. Plus the loom go from the car into the door jam then down like 4 or 5 inches then into the door. There is too much material and too little space to scruch it up to try and make it straight.
However last night i did rob's idea and it worked like a charm. It was a little difficult to poke the hole, so i used the end of a philips 1 drill bit. But ran some 12 gauge wire through the hole and taped the speaker wire to it and pulled it through.
Thanks for the info, now i can finally amp and equalize all my speakers.
Actually, I've tried that on a B13 SE-R.
I unwrapped the tapes around the grommet and ran 5 wires thru the grommet and the plastic-sleeve, just like how the factory routed the wires into the door. It was a bitch to do but it's doable. And when the job was done, you cannot tell how I added all those wires to make my power door-locks work. With a coat-hanger, lots of WD-40 and even more patience, it's achievable.
The best thing I've found to run wires through door jambs and assorted body panels is an engine oil dipstick. I found an extra long one out of a domestic car at a junkyard. It's metal (glides real easy with WD-40), pretty flexible, and is strong enough to handle some good pulls when persuading wires where you need them to be. Plastic fish tapes are usually too thick to get it and wires through some limited space areas, where this being a little bit thinner just works like a charm for me.
Jerry James Hays 9/1/1982-5/14/2006
