What would you do with a B13 turbo track ho???

T-Dog · 07-19-2006, 11:15 PM

Here's the skinny. Just looking for opinions. I have a 91 SE-R with a T-25 on it. The car is relatively well setup.

Engine:
T-25 on a JDM motor running 10psi.
FMIC
Lightweight flywheel
UD Pulley set
JWT ECU, etc.

Suspension:
Bits n Pieces (Custom tubes, 8611 Koni's)
Camber plates
Caster Bushings
Front and Rear Progress Bars
ES Poly everywhere
Whiteline lower control arm brace
Roll Cage
15x7 ATS Comp Lites with Toyo 225/45/15's
Carbotech pads and AD22's
Car is extremely well balanced and very neutral. Easy as heck to drive this thing fast.

Here's the question. I never see myself competing in any kind of series in this car seeing that the only series I think it would fit in is SE-R Cup as an SRX car, correct? Does NASA offer a class for this car? So the question is what to do with this thing. I use it to do HPDE and PDX's now that we have a world-class track in Utah. I am wondering what you guys would do in regards to prepping the car more? I have been considering turning the thing into a full on racecar. It is not driven on the streets anymore and I trailer it to the track. I use it to do SCCA Solo II events and used to be in SM but I think with the cage I would be in DMod. I have absolutely no intension to try and be competitive in this car. It is strictly a FUN car to track drive.

With that being said do I completely gut the car and take the weight down to crazy low number? Are there weight restrictions in some of the classes this car can compete in? (SRX, NASA?) Like I said I don't see myself competing in it but I also don't want to shoot myself in the foot if something presents itself and I've tossed all these parts to lose weight.

Any other thoughts now that you know a bit about the car and what I plan to use it for.

Thanks!

fairgentleman z · 07-20-2006, 08:45 AM

Someone correct me if I am wrong but you can compete with the SCCA in the ITE class. It is a catch all class that allows cars that would normally not be able to run in a normal IT class.

Restricted regionals allow for cars preped for other series (NASA, EMRA) to run with IT, barring that they meet the safety requirements.

Blair · 07-20-2006, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fairgentleman z

Someone correct me if I am wrong but you can compete with the SCCA in the ITE class. It is a catch all class that allows cars that would normally not be able to run in a normal IT class.

ITE seems to vary from region to region. I read somewhere before that they were only going to accept cars prepped for other endurance series or some wording like that. That being said, I've seen all kinds of crazy stuff in ITE. I'd check with your RE or event chair.

Blair · 07-20-2006, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by T-Dog

Here's the question. I never see myself competing in any kind of series in this car seeing that the only series I think it would fit in is SE-R Cup as an SRX car, correct? Does NASA offer a class for this car? So the question is what to do with this thing. I use it to do HPDE and PDX's now that we have a world-class track in Utah. I am wondering what you guys would do in regards to prepping the car more? I have been considering turning the thing into a full on racecar. It is not driven on the streets anymore and I trailer it to the track. I use it to do SCCA Solo II events and used to be in SM but I think with the cage I would be in DMod. I have absolutely no intension to try and be competitive in this car. It is strictly a FUN car to track drive.

Have you thought about time trial? I don't know what group you're driving in now, but it might be a logical next step.

Quote:

Originally Posted by T-Dog

With that being said do I completely gut the car and take the weight down to crazy low number? Are there weight restrictions in some of the classes this car can compete in? (SRX, NASA?) Like I said I don't see myself competing in it but I also don't want to shoot myself in the foot if something presents itself and I've tossed all these parts to lose weight.

Any other thoughts now that you know a bit about the car and what I plan to use it for.

Thanks!

Read the rules, read the rules, read the rules

Different classes have different rules for weight.

Cooling, cooling, cooling. It sounds like you've made it fast, now make it last. Big radiator is a must.

Good luck and have fun at Miller!

spdracerUT · 07-20-2006, 09:51 AM

Well, as far as upgrading..... I'd definitely put in a Nismo diff. My stock VLSD bit the dust around 110k-120k miles. I guess the turbo was too much for it

And maybe just upgrade your safety equipment. Fire suppresent, beefin up the cage, make sure that matter isn't going anywhere in a crash, etc.

T-Dog · 07-20-2006, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Cooling, cooling, cooling. It sounds like you've made it fast, now make it last. Big radiator is a must.

I learned this at the last Porsche club DE I was participating in. I was extremely careful to watch my temp gauge and anytime I was nearing what I would consider an unsafe level I would stick it in 4th or 5th and take a cool-down lap. Still didn't have anyone pass me

In all fairness to the Porsche boys I was in a beginner group.

I do have a larger than stock radiator in that it has 2 rows instead of the stock single row. I have a Nismo cap and thermostat but in the 95+ degree weather it still wasn't enough. I think I have a few issues to resolve here. First I'm going to buy a Koyo radiator, Second I am going to figure out how to get more air into the radiator naturally (partial bumper modification, should I remove my headlights and turn signals?? I know they are not in a direct path for the radiator but was thinking it might help remove heat out of the engine bay.) I also need to find fans that have a full 12" square shroud on them. The fans I have now are round and I think leaving all the corner areas of the radiator exposed to no fan is not helping the cause. I consider putting a stock fan on the driver’s side again because it will fit and has a nice shroud. My gray area is the passenger side where I have no choice but to run a pusher fan. I run straight water with Redline water wetter. Not sure what else I can do with the cooling but I know I have issues that need fixing.

This winter I will put in a Nismo LSD but mine is actually still working believe it or not. (150k on it)

Safety is always a work in progress. I refused to track drive the car till I at least had a cage in it. Now I will work on better seats, fire suppression system, HANS, etc.

I will not compete in the car until ALL safety equipment is in it. Maybe I shouldn't drive it in HPDE or PDX's till all this is done as well but I do feel the risk is lower for an accident in these types of events. Besides the car is still safe in my opinion. I check everything several times over before heading to a track event.

spdracerUT · 07-20-2006, 12:31 PM

You also definitely need an oil cooler and maybe a bigger oil pump. The NA guys are running scary high temps... I hate to imagine the temps with a turbo! I just ignore mine

Seriously though, I don't push my car too hard on the track (i.e. not for too extended a period of time) as I know my cooling can't keep up.

Blair · 07-20-2006, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by T-Dog

I do have a larger than stock radiator in that it has 2 rows instead of the stock single row. I have a Nismo cap and thermostat but in the 95+ degree weather it still wasn't enough. I think I have a few issues to resolve here. First I'm going to buy a Koyo radiator, Second I am going to figure out how to get more air into the radiator naturally (partial bumper modification, should I remove my headlights and turn signals??

I run a Koyo in my NX (NA) and have put foam around the radiator to force air through the rad instead of letting it go around. Anything that will get air through the rad will help. I don't know how big of an intercooler you have though. I doubt pulling the headlights will help much

420sxDET · 07-20-2006, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by T-Dog

Suspension:
Bits n Pieces (Custom tubes, 8611 Koni's)
Camber plates
Caster Bushings
Front and Rear Progress Bars
ES Poly everywhere
Whiteline lower control arm brace
Roll Cage
15x7 ATS Comp Lites with Toyo 225/45/15's
Carbotech pads and AD22's
Car is extremely well balanced and very neutral. Easy as heck to drive this thing fast.

Hey, I was curious if you have more info on your custom 8611 shocks fitted on your car. DO you have pictures? How much was it, who did it? I was reading up on those shocks and they looked really nice

blairellis · 07-20-2006, 06:10 PM

I was going to suggest radiator ducting but the other Blair got to it before me

Bigger Koyo is good, the Altima OE fans have been proven to be a great bang for buck upgrade, as seen in the fan test located in the 240sx section below this one.

Pulling the headlights isnt going to help do anything except create drag.

If you want better cooling, check into some radiator ducting as well as a vent on the back side of the hood to let the hot air escape. Air is coming in, and the only place it has to go is under the car, but if you can put another vent in the hood somewhere, it will help with aero as well as air under the car isnt the best thing in the world for racing.

I'm slightly out of date on my racing stuff, so double check my info. I havent looked into it in about 2 years now. This is all coming from my brain matter

T-Dog · 07-20-2006, 10:31 PM

420sxDET wrote:

Quote:

Hey, I was curious if you have more info on your custom 8611 shocks fitted on your car. DO you have pictures? How much was it, who did it? I was reading up on those shocks and they looked really nice

Here's a good write up and review

http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread....ht=bits+pieces

It is exceptional for the money. Price is about $2200 or so. There are more expensive setups available from Ground Control but you will pay almost a grand more for them. If you are on a budget consider the Progress Coilovers.

T-Dog · 07-20-2006, 10:34 PM

Thanks for all the advice so far. Where do I go for an oil cooler? WHere do I tap into the oil system, filter adapter? Are the Altima fans off a particular year? I assume they are puller fans, correct? Lastly where is the foam placed? I would guess that it is placed on the front bumper side of the radiator and cut to fit as flush as possible with the surrounding objects to maximize air flow into the radiator fins.

Thanks!

TC

blairellis · 08-01-2006, 05:52 PM

Not sure of a particular year. Check the 240 section here on the sr20 forum for the fan thread. It is stickied. You can find the info there.

McCoy · 08-01-2006, 06:06 PM

In regards to cooling for your setup, adding the Koyo, 300zx rad cap, and removing the center grill has gone along way on helping my car keep cool. On a 94F day (this last Friday) with the T28 + S3 cams I was able to keep water temps below 215F and oil temps between 200 - 240F. Removing the center grill actually helps drop water temps by 15F alone

. I am able to run 20+ minutes sessions without a cool down lap... I was never able to do that before with the NX radiator or the NX

I say invest in a good oil temp gauge before you start investing in an oil cooler. I thought I'd need one, and so far I'm not seeing it.

The Nismo LSD is a MUST, that is after safety equipment... the LSD just makes the car so much more when on the track

.

chriscar · 08-01-2006, 06:12 PM

It's amazing that taking the grille drops the temp that much.

C

McCoy · 08-01-2006, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chriscar

It's amazing that taking the grille drops the temp that much.

C

I forgot to pull the grill on Friday and I was trying to figure out why I was running close to 220F after the first session of the morning... pulled it and I was rocking 205F solid, unless I start pushing it for to long. Others might see different results, but pretty sure it will always be a drop in temps

chriscar · 08-01-2006, 06:23 PM

Wish I could pop the nose off the NX that easy.

C

se-riousr · 08-01-2006, 06:24 PM

dont know t much about what yall do but it sound fun. but i have a metal raditor in my car and i drive it hard all day on the street to the drag hell to work and my car never even seen the middle of the temp gauge but i also have a WRX hoodscoop. i live in GA and the kids dont even come out side no more.

sorry so long

chriscar · 08-01-2006, 06:27 PM

2 things -

1 - the stock temp gauge is absolutely useless.

2 - driving your car on a road course is a gazillion times harder on it than anything you'll ever do on the street.

C

sr20goofus · 08-07-2006, 01:28 PM

i relaize this is a FWD setup, but the principals are all the same. If the water pump is ru off a pull, you may want to think about getting a smaller water pump pully, which would get teh water pumping a little faster, a lowtemp thermostate or no thermostate would also help keep the coolant temps down.

I personally see about 170* on my 240 w/ V-mount while im on track, that is with no fans, just ducting and outside temps of about 95*, i run a massive (4"Tx4"Hx6"L) Piper Aero oilcooler and low temp thermostate to keep oil temps in check.

some simple ducting will help you, but more than anything the FMIC is givng the rad heatsoaked air so its not cooling as efficiently as it could, so try to keep that in mind, and maybe a bigger rad with a good pusher fan on the front would really help.