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From my limited knowledge, those design objectives sound very nice. It would be cool to hear from a few of the engineers on the forum though. If they are as nice as they sound like they are going to be, I will definatly pick up a set.
I do have a question though, how much do you need to lower the ball joint if you are say, one inch lower then stock? Does that mean you would want it one inch lower? Or lets say your lowered two inches, does that mean you want the ball joint down 2 inches? What is the relationship?
Rob, to expand a little bit on why these are good. Basically, there are three reasons.
1. Help correct the camber curve. The wheels go into a bad part of the camber curve when lowered and the camber goes positive which is bad for traction. With a better camber curve you could run less static negative camber to help with braking and tire wear.
2. It prevents the axles from bottoming out, extending axle life.
3. It raises the roll center back up. The roll center is a real or imaginary line that the car rolls on. On a Macpherson strut car it is found by drawing a line out parallel from the lower control arm and then parallel to the top of the strut tower. Where those lines intersect is called the instantaneous center. You then draw a line from the tire contact patch to where those lines intercect. I believe you do that on both sides and then where the lines coming from the contact patch intercect is the roll center. To find the roll axis you connect the front and rear roll centers. When you lower the car, the front roll center drops fast, it can drop below the ground. This creates a large roll couple and a steep angle for the roll axxis, niether of which are good.
People that know more then me, please correct any of that if its wrong.
I will definatly pick a set of these if everything works out. Just to check, the B13 and B14 have the same control arms, so it should work on both, correct? If they are different, would you consider making some for the B14(if not the same, the control arms are so similar I doubt much tweaking to the design would be required). No matter what, I would really like to get my hands on a set of these. Thanks for creating a great product.
originally i planned to put some webbing between the two main bars, but i dont think it is needed.
this is out of 1" x 1 1/2" x 085" rectangular tubing - i think i like it better than using round tubing
i haven't weighed it, but it is a bit lighter than oem, maybe about a pound
comments??? suggestions???
-chuck
Chuck: That looks pretty good. Simple and strong. Reversible too. Maybe the rear pin needs better bracing or full circle welding. I'd grind the arm to fit almost 3/4 around and weld along the seams then around the ends for strength. Can this be spaced for more caster?
Looks like good clearance on the ball joint end to the wheel. I'm guessing about 1-1 1/4" spaced down. That ought to handle the camber gain under bump. Is the arm longer? The ball joint has a taper on the shaft, is that the special one you were talking about so no drilling out the tapered hole?
BTW will this fit both B13 and B14 ? Also time frame for production?
if you have time to make digital art, post it here
if you have some graphix , fonts, ideas, that you don't have time to illustrate, post it here
and beeee veeeeerrrry
i have been able to source a shop that will build the monoball studs to my specs at the same cost as buying off the shelf units and having the taper ground. yea !!
progress is going well on the adjustable control arm as well
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Maybe the rear pin needs better bracing or full circle welding. I'd grind the arm to fit almost 3/4 around and weld along the seams then around the ends for strength. Can this be spaced for more caster? 
