Nissan SR20 Forum Nissan SR20 Forum Header Right

Welcome to the SR20 Forum!

A community of enthusiasts dedicated to Nissan's SR20DE/SR20VE/SR20DET engines.
Start here: forum search. Be sure to search on what you're looking for before posting a new thread.

You are currently browsing the forum as a guest. In order to access special features, the image gallery, and post you will need to be a registered member. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the administrator.

Google Links

» Log in
User Name:

Password:

Not a member yet?
Register Now!
» Wheel & Tire Center

Sponsors

Sponsors


Go Back   SR20 Forum > Vendor Customer Support > Bolt in Bars



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-18-2006, 03:15 AM   #1 (permalink)
SE-R Nut

I support the SR20 Forum!
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Trader Rating: 40 (100%)
control arms

<<<<<update 3-6-07>>>>>>
NOW TAKING ORDERS! http://www.sr20forum.com/showpost.ph...&postcount=103


3/7/07
2 sets paid for :
-SentraDragon
-rex
-
-
-
-


only 4 left







i've been working on designing front lower control arms for the b13

it's gonna be something like this



my design parameters are:

safety first - this leads to alot of the design decisions

use factory mounting points

no modifications to the spindle

adjustable at the balljoint to correct geometry

equal or less weight than factory

$350 price range


the biggest obstacle was the balljoint. nissan uses a 9* taper, not common in american race products. i was hoping to use an inexpensive off the shelf unit, but no luck. i have decided to use a screw-in setup and offer a few options.

1) off the shelf ball joint (reaming of the spindle required) drops the balljoint about 1"

2) adjustable monoball (reaming of the spindle required) drops the balljoint about 0"- 1.5" (std) or 1" - 2" (extended)

3) adjustable monoball (with custom ground stud no reaming required) drops the balljoint about 0" - 1.5" (std) or 1" - 2" (extended)

there are pro's and con's for any option, notably:

1) ots balljoints are cheap $15-$25
reamers are $75-$100 to diy or $20-$50(est) for a shop to do it
once you ream the spindle, there's no going back without replacing it

2) adjustable
$100 additional cost
reamers are $75-$100 to diy or $20-$50(est) for a shop to do it
once you ream the spindle, there's no going back without replacing it

3) adjustable
$150 additional cost
no reaming required
easy bolt up install




i believe this is the best way to go. it offers the flexability to serve daily drivers, autocrossers, weekend warriors and racers.

they will mount as factory and come equiped with superpro bushings (castor increasing or std bushings). and be compatable with stock or avaiable aftermarket swaybars.

construction will be similar to the drawing consisting of 1" steel tubing and 3/16" plate

i could build some camber, caster and trackwidth into them, but i want to keep them daily driver friendly. (someone else would need to figure this out for me)

pricing would start at $299 (w/ ots balljoints) and increase as outlined above.



i'm hoping to to have a working prototype built in 4-6 weeks



-chuck

Last edited by octotat : 03-08-2007 at 01:37 AM.
octotat is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 02-18-2006, 10:26 AM   #2 (permalink)
boost junkie!

 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Catonsville, MD
Trader Rating: 12 (100%)

i'll be the first to say hooray!! looks cool.
__________________
91 SENTRA se-r
dead SR20VE-T
"I stays breakin stuff"
For sale!
http://www.sr20forum.com/mid-atlantic-east/161787-im-selling-everything.html
check out www.ecdrift.com for you sideways guys!
blackb13se-r is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2006, 10:50 AM   #3 (permalink)
<>< Jesus is the Answer
 
blairellis's Avatar

I support the SR20 Forum!
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Trader Rating: 13 (100%)

Sweet! Now if I only had a B chassis car
__________________
Blair
93 P10

"For I know the plans I have for you," declares the LORD, "plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future." - Jeremiah 29:11 (NIV)
blairellis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2006, 11:17 AM   #4 (permalink)
Dreamin' of VVL

 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Camas, WA, USA
Trader Rating: 11 (100%)

Great! I have been waiting for a control arm to fix geometry for my lowered B13 for a long time. In fact, I was working designing my own, but will wait and see this one.

Even though the cost is significantly more, I agree option 3 is best. Being able to go back to stock is important.
johnand is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2006, 12:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
.....

 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Pueblo West, CO.
Trader Rating: 12 (100%)

Quote:
Originally Posted by blairellis
Sweet! Now if I only had a B chassis car
They already have it for your S13.
__________________
Steve

06 G35 6MT
98sr20ve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2006, 12:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
.....

 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Pueblo West, CO.
Trader Rating: 12 (100%)

I think you guys worry to much about going back to stock. How many people who do this are really ever going to take the car back to stock. If you do just get some junkyard hubs for $50-75 and call it a day. Or sell the arms with the hubs to someone who wants them. Just the price of the reaming makes it worth selling the predone hubs as a kit with the arms.
98sr20ve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2006, 03:41 PM   #7 (permalink)
Enjoy the GTR Matt!

 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: SE
Trader Rating: 23 (100%)

For those "suspension geometry challenged" of us, can you explain what is wrong with the stock setup, and what benefits you would get from this product?
__________________
Sweet '93 NX DE+T GT28RS- For Sale
R0b_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2006, 03:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
Primera Nut

 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Derybyshire, UK....
Trader Rating: 0 (0%)

I'll 'attempt' that one and Chuck can correct what I get wrong...

With MacPherson strut suspension, when you lower the car you take the control arm to near or possibly past horizontal; so any suspension compression will bring the outer end upwards and inwards so causing positive camber.

By lowering the outer end of the control arm you stop this positive camber situation happening....


Is that right Chuck ??
__________________
My Cardomain page and My website check them out
markbuts3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2006, 06:56 PM   #9 (permalink)
SE-R Nut

I support the SR20 Forum!
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Trader Rating: 40 (100%)
gold star for mark!!

by raising where the balljoint mounts in relation to the control arm, you bring the control arm back to it's original position.

an additional benefit is that it also helps keep the cv joints from bottoming out, increasing axle life in a lowered car

-chuck
octotat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2006, 01:26 AM   #10 (permalink)
rex
SE-R Nut

 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Houston
Trader Rating: 4 (100%)

I have paypal ready when they're done! Speaking of ...what kind of time table do you project?
rex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2006, 01:09 PM   #11 (permalink)
SE-R Nut

I support the SR20 Forum!
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Trader Rating: 40 (100%)
my goal is to have a small run done by the convention
octotat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2006, 01:42 PM   #12 (permalink)
rex
SE-R Nut

 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Houston
Trader Rating: 4 (100%)

I'm not going to the convention but put me on a list, please.
rex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2006, 06:54 PM   #13 (permalink)
out with neck injury :-(
 
HJBarker's Avatar

 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Huntsville, AL
Trader Rating: 8 (100%)

hmmm... I don't know if I wanna go for the LCAB or just save up for these...

what happened to those LCABs anyways? I can't find the thread anymore and I really want one... pm me?

[/hijack]

///H
__________________
...another thread invasion from Harry, who came back and noticed that everything was suddenly fcuking different. What happened?
Not on the forum much lately since neck injury - we'll be back at it soon, babying the n00bies.

JWT S4, HS 6, Home Depot Intake, Hypercoil 2s w/ KYB "GR-Poo", CF Sunroof Delete panel, and other crap - where's my interior?

HJBarker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2006, 07:19 PM   #14 (permalink)
The smooth funky classic
 
brokeser's Avatar

 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Huntsville AL.
Trader Rating: 12 (100%)

I would most definitly spend some bones for this... ***' me *** line.

L
brokeser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2006, 09:45 PM   #15 (permalink)
SE-R Lightweight

 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Chattanooga Tn
Trader Rating: 3 (100%)

I am very interrested in these. I Solo II in STS so it looks like opt. 3 for me. Im checking into legalities. Of course more camber and track would awesome as well.
__________________
It only as fast as you drive it!!!
-Scott (racersd2) Dobler
racersd2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2006, 09:53 PM   #16 (permalink)
98 SE

 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: PDX Metro
Trader Rating: 9 (100%)

I'm watching to see a built model, and deciding whether to make my own one off, or this.
veilside180sx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2006, 09:59 PM   #17 (permalink)
SE-R Nut

I support the SR20 Forum!
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Trader Rating: 40 (100%)
Quote:
Originally Posted by HJBarker
hmmm... I don't know if I wanna go for the LCAB or just save up for these...

what happened to those LCABs anyways? I can't find the thread anymore and I really want one... pm me?

[/hijack]

///H

http://www.sr20forum.com/bolt-bars/144750-whiteline-4pt-control-arm-braces-%24135-shipped.html
octotat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2006, 10:20 PM   #18 (permalink)
SE-R Nut

I support the SR20 Forum!
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Trader Rating: 40 (100%)
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98sr20ve
I think you guys worry to much about going back to stock. How many people who do this are really ever going to take the car back to stock. If you do just get some junkyard hubs for $50-75 and call it a day. Or sell the arms with the hubs to someone who wants them. Just the price of the reaming makes it worth selling the predone hubs as a kit with the arms.

the advantage of not reaming the spindle is:

if you have a failure, you can just slap a new spindle in

you don't have to purchase a tool that you are only going to use a few times

you don't have to rely on some one else to ream the spindle correctly

when you decide to sell the car or return it to stock, you just slap the old lca back in
octotat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2006, 10:39 PM   #19 (permalink)
98 SE

 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: PDX Metro
Trader Rating: 9 (100%)

For me I'll keep a spare spindle and LCA in the garage, it's that easy.=)
veilside180sx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2006, 10:44 PM   #20 (permalink)
The smooth funky classic
 
brokeser's Avatar

 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Huntsville AL.
Trader Rating: 12 (100%)

Quote:
Originally Posted by veilside180sx
For me I'll keep a spare spindle and LCA in the garage, it's that easy.=)
Can't do better than that

L
brokeser is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply



  SR20 Forum > Vendor Customer Support > Bolt in Bars


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off<