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can u make a a test program for my b14...8.5 comp/z32..msd 50lb??
Nope. All B14 ecus are shipping with bone stock programs, tuning is up to you.
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All posts by Calum in this thread are copyrighted by Calum, and cannot be edited, deleted, or copied without his express permission. calum@calumsult.com
I can ship on Friday, will that work? Where you the guy that wanted extra cables too? Sorry, my e-mails got piled up.
nope, dont need extra cables. i just need boards, chips, cables...whatever it takes to assemble the ECU and make it work.
if you could load a base map that'll work with a 1992 maxima MAF (similar to the 300zx...same wiring, less flow range) that'd be terrific..i've also got DET injectors at 42psi base fuel pressure.
email me or post here with a final cost and a paypal address, i'll paypal as soon as you reply.
thanks!
edit: i've got a 95 G20 if that makes any difference.........
Last edited by Beakmoney : 08-16-2006 at 10:25 PM.
Nope. All B14 ecus are shipping with bone stock programs, tuning is up to you.
so can i order the gti-r program since it will be easier to tune with the 444's vs the 370's..then i can use a afc to tune the maf and everything else...whats the cost for this anyways
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Originally Posted by paNX2K&SE-R
Keep the a/c if its a daily driver. Chicks don't like swampass
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R.I.P. RESPECT SR.
93 p10 jdm de--for sale
96 b14 det--for sale
89 formula--sold
next up is a minivan
Nope. All B14 ecus are shipping with the original B14 programs. I have zero B14 programs right now. Zero. By stock I meant B14 stock, I'm not at the point where I can port a B13 program over.
They are still $155 shipped. Just shoot a note to orders-at-calumsult-dot-com.
Also finally got the problem with the stupid diagnostic screw fixed where you can keep it. You guys that have early versions with the deleted screw can send them back and I will replace the screw.
so calum you are basically saying you can do a b14 daughter board but nothing like the preprogramed b13 boards (I.E. b13 ve with Max MAF)?
That is what he said. He has people working on the programs for the OBDII ECUs as the OBDI stuff dose not copy rite over. It needs to be tweaked a bit to work. I myself am anxiously awaiting the outcome of this thread as I plan on going turbo soon and I would like to use a Calum ECU.
Mike
... Wishing I knew how to tweak ecu like Calum!!...
Yes to the above. The B13 programs _should_ port over, but without having a B14 with those setups _I_ can't port them over. You can though.
Btw, everyone that has an older board with the removed diagnostic ecu, I've got the fix in for keeping the diagnostic screw. I will reinstall your screw and cover shipping.
I got my ECU back, and put it in the car. I let the car warm up, and watched the sensors with the nProbe, and everything looked great. Later lastnight, I got brave and took the car around the block. The car ran great the entire time, no hicups. When I first got the ECU, I had the CEL fashing with the O2 voltage, and the CEL would not come on with the key ON, but the engine off. Both those are fixed now. With the JWT ECU, the idle was ~1100rpm, but not it's 925 or so. I didn't mess with the idle screw, and I'm running the exact same program on both ECUs. I'm going to drive it longer today, so I'll report back if there are any issues. i don't expect any, but I have a 10mm socket, flashlight, and my JWT ECU in the car, just incase.
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1996 200SX SE-R VE powered
1991 Sentra SE-R
2004 Subaru Forester turbo
2006 Mitsubishi Evolution IX
Just for the record, anyone with an early B14 ecu with the removed diagnostic screw: The easy fix is to just solder a jumper wire in the board where the diagnostic screw originally connected to. A solid wire or the end of a resistor works great. The pain in the a$$ fix is to remove the 74HC00 on the daughter board, bend the legs backward, and flip it to the back of the daughterboard. Then the diagnostic screw can be reinstalled in the normal position. I recomend the easy fix. All but the first 5 or so B14 prototype ecus have this problem taken care of.
Highway test was a sucess. I drove ~40 miles round trip yesterday and the car ran great. The lower idle speed is going to take some getting used to. I keep thinking the car is going to stall, but it's just me getting used to it being under 1100rpm. I need to figure out where the idle speed is in the maps.