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Did I fry something if I hooked the board up like this? Two IC's are swapped, and the resistor at the bottom right is not in correctly.
Thanks
Tumbs are clickable, to LARGE pics.
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My real name is Kyle
2002 Maxima SE (6MT) -Drop-in K&N and a brand new longblock VQ35
1994 G20 - SR20VE, JWT pop, SSAC 2.5", 2.5" VRS catback
Probably not, but the easiest way to fix that is to cut the leads of the ICs and replace them with new parts. Getting them out without damaging them is a bear. If your out of parts I can provide spares, just post a list of what all you need. I think I've got some extra bare boards somewhere too.
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All posts by Calum in this thread are copyrighted by Calum, and cannot be edited, deleted, or copied without his express permission. calum@calumsult.com
I'll see what I can do... can I use a solder sucker to get the IC's off? Would a local store like radio shack or fry's have the IC's? Fry's is where I got the new resistor...
Well, I got the two chips off (messily), but now I'm trying to get the holes cleaned out, and I'm having some trouble. I have some wick, but maybe I don't know how to use it, but it's not working that well. I'll just have to keep trying. I think the soldering iron I got sucks.
Do you have any spare RS 232 chips? I got the other one, but the store I went to didn't have a 232 chip w/ the same pinout.
Is there a way to tell what's good and what's not? I have the rs 232 chip off, as well as the hc163. Do I need to do anything else? I have a replacement hc163, so I just need the rs232, unless you think I will need to replace anything else, or how I can check everything.
Install it and find out. Seriously though, I wouldn't reuse any of the chips you've pulled unless you've got sentimental attachement to them. Is all you need the st232? Thats going to run you a whopping 94 cents plus shipping and paypal. Nothing else? Shipping is going to cost you more than the parts.
Thanks for the package calum... you never included a bill by the way. I appreciate all the extras, helped me on my way to building a new board.
However, it still doesn't work! I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Hopefully I didn't screw something up on this new board. What happens if I'm using a non-supported usb-serial adapter? Is there anyway to test anything without it hooked up to the car?
ARRRGGGH
edit: do the LED's go in a certain way? That's the only thing I can think of, it wasn't in your writeup. I assumed since you said they were optional, it didn't matter which way they went.
Last edited by El Gabito : 09-17-2006 at 02:58 PM.
long leg of a led is the + side, which way he puts them...i have no idea.
non suported usb-serial adapter shouldnt matter. as long as windows sees it as a com device. like my old ass belkin shows up as com8 and works just fine. if you have a cisco device you can test your serial port that way....a serial mouse....modem....hmm thats about it off the top of my head. does windows see it correctly as a com port? Does the software then show that port in the software you are using, calumsult, conzult? ever get the ecu model number to show up?
or you sure your cable is a straight serial not a null modem cable?
I have two serial cables, the programs will recognize both of them, but cannot detect an ecu. I have no led activity, so maybe they're not in correctly? I dunno... I'm at a loss.
Consider it sent The only known issues are the 1000upf or whatever capacitor is kind of jury rigged on there, but I think it has a good connection. The other thing I don't know about is the LED's (if they need to be on a certain way). This is my first time doing anything like this, so there's a chance I just can't solder anything. The two big caps are closer to the board than you would like, but I don't think that would effect their operation. The only part I really reused was the metal box thing and the big caps.
I sent it out today, and I included a return label and a $4.05 stamp, so all you have to do is stick them on and drop it off. Keep all the spare parts you want, throw the rest away, and just send the good board back to me. Then let me know what I owe you for everything.
Considering its only like 50 cents in parts though, I'd just cut them off.
The only known issues are the 1000upf or whatever capacitor is kind of jury rigged on there, but I think it has a good connection. The other thing I don't know about is the LED's (if they need to be on a certain way). This is my first time doing anything like this, so there's a chance I just can't solder anything. The two big caps are closer to the board than you would like, but I don't think that would effect their operation. The only part I really reused was the metal box thing and the big caps. 
