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I'm starting a thread for the discussion from another thread. Recap: Is there intrest in a 'on-the-fly map switching' daughterboard, and if so, what exactly do you want? This would be for automatically retarding your timing on a nitrous install, or launch control, etc. Here's the big question: do you want a 'smart' board with lots of features, or something simple and cheap? Or is this something your really not intrested in? If it was a simple board, would you want just this, or include the consult stuff too? Here's the cost breakdown:
-simple: add ~$20-25 to either existing board
-smart board: price would probably be ~$250
repost:
Well this has been my dilema: I can roll something really quickly thats a simple switched map based timing retard. That works and is nifty and all, but theres just too much temptation to do something so much slicker... Its a tradeoff though, simple and cheap vs slick and not so cheap. I can't really do both because the cost of getting a large board run done for each is prohibitive. Thoughts? Which would you guys prefer?
This is what I want to put on a general purpose 'controller' daughterboard (think daughterboard with brains). Think controlling nitrous, VE solenoids, etc.
-consult-on-board
-usb connection for consult and to controller
-4 switchable maps
-2 output drivers minimum (maybe 4?), and use an external box to control high-current solenoids like nitrous solenoids
-PWM control on the drivers (for progressive nitrous control)
-rpm input
-speed input
-extra analog inputs
Anything else? I think doing a 'kitchen sink' approach where you could use the board for all kinds of uses would be cool. I'll open source the code for the controller so you guys can develope your own custom applications.
Or just stick with the simple and cheap approach?
Vote!
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All posts by Calum in this thread are copyrighted by Calum, and cannot be edited, deleted, or copied without his express permission. calum@calumsult.com
If it's $250 for the "trick" one, I don't see why you wouldn't go with that. As long as it's still simple enough that the average joe tuner can mess with it (ie, if they can use one of your standard boards - they can do this). It's still half the price of JWT and a lot better.
If a progressive setup could be run off of a $250 ecu, you'd be the man.
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My real name is Kyle
2002 Maxima SE (6MT) -Drop-in K&N and a brand new longblock VQ35
1994 G20 - SR20VE, JWT pop, SSAC 2.5", 2.5" VRS catback
One minor clarification: I can put enought 'oomphie' on the daughterboard to drive standard relays no problem, or maybe lower current solenoids, but not enough to directly drive a nitrous solenoid. To do the progressive stuff you need to directly drive the solenoid, so an external box with big hoss drivers would be needed (the nitrous solenoids I've looked are high current). For standard nitrous you wouldn't need the external box (just drive a relay to enable the nitrous like a normal system does). The external box for progressive control would cost extra ($100 or less).
I need to look at this more. I might be able to squeeze one big driver on a daughterboard.
To me the simple with consult is the best choice. The options would/could be nice but the learning curve might be to extreme. It depends on the ease of use with the "smart" board. If it's easy to tune like El Gabito said than that's what i'd go with. What would be the price to add the "smart" board to the existing VE Ecu with consult? Or would it have to be a different ecu?
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Situations get worse before they get better.
I guess the simple one wouldn't be able to switch on water injection or activate cam switchover or activate nitrous solenoids. I think those 3 things cover much of the enhanced ecu market. It sounds like the smart board ones are the way to go.
__________________ 91 SE-R w/DET
02 G20 Sport 5spd
94 Miata "homobile"
93 240SX Family Project
"Any man who is under 30, and is not a liberal, has no heart; and any man who is over 30, and is not a conservative, has no brains." Winston Churchill
I want the best available as long as you're willing to teach me how to use it I'd probably try the progressive thing eventually too. I know that my setup would need the seperate box for sure though. The solenoids are so big that I had to rewire everything on it's own, cause it kept blowing fuses. It had been wired up the old way for years with my old kit and never had any problems.
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1993 NX2000-5SPD SWAP, 2120lbs. JDM Motor, Calumsult Realtime ECU, Brian Crower STG 3 cams, CP XTP 9.2:1 pistons, NX DP-100 shot, Prothane Mounts, ACT Xtreme/street disc, PR CAI with JWT POP, SSAC with 2.5" downpipe, Dynomax 3" muffler, Outlaw Intake Spacers, OEM wires with ngk plugs, UR Pulleys, Walbro 190, ST springs with KYB's, Xstatic Batcap, Axis maglites
Whats the coil resistance on your nitrous solenoid? What is the model number of your nitrous solenoid btw?
Just looking on google it looks like 6-10 Amps is roughly what a nitrous solenoid will draw. I think I can handle that on a daughterboard, but its going to need to be a full size daughterboard. No biggie.
Edit: Heck, lets go for broke. I bet I can do 4 drivers on board capable of handling 10Amps.
Well this is the nitrous solenoid. I don't think nitrous express sells mine anymore since they came out with the new carbon fiber "lightning" series. I'll look around and see if I can find anything else.
Well this is the nitrous solenoid. I don't think nitrous express sells mine anymore since they came out with the new carbon fiber "lightning" series. I'll look around and see if I can find anything else.
Alright well i have the same kit. I do not have the new solenoids. I've tried to find some part numbers for them to get the resistance but no luck. Let me know if you find anything.
