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im taking my NX2000 apart to paint it. after it is painted it s getting a roll cage, uyes i know it is backwards, i should do the cage first.
how ever, why the car im apart, meaning all the panels are off etc., i want to tig weld the chassis and get rid of the glue.
anyone have any suggestions or help the can offer? like the best way to get the glue off, will the car fall apart ** i can get it welded? is there a certain way it needs to be welded? my dad is a certified welder, but he doesnt work on cars/car chassis.
any help is much apprieciated
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There is a digram floating around here somewhere of the seam welding points for a GTI-R.It came out of some Nissan manual that would be a good starting point.
There is a digram floating around here somewhere of the seam welding points for a GTI-R.It came out of some Nissan manual that would be a good starting point.
yes. let the dry ice sit on the big sheets of tar for a long time. be patient. after about 10 minutes or until you hear the crackling noise start to slow down, hit it with a hammer. some parts of the car you may get lucky and the tar may just come off from the freezing. others you will have to hit with a hammer. then vacuum all that up. for the glue/seam sealer, i used an angle grinder with a wire brush attachment. this takes it out pretty easily but flings the crap everywhere so have a vacuum ready here too. for the little places that you miss, home depot sells little cup wire brushes and all different little ones that you can put into a drill. when youre all done with that you can get the remaining residue off with MEK. MAKE SURE you wear a respirator. this stuff can really really mess you up. then youll be about ready to paint.
yes. let the dry ice sit on the big sheets of tar for a long time. be patient. after about 10 minutes or until you hear the crackling noise start to slow down, hit it with a hammer. some parts of the car you may get lucky and the tar may just come off from the freezing. others you will have to hit with a hammer. then vacuum all that up. for the glue/seam sealer, i used an angle grinder with a wire brush attachment. this takes it out pretty easily but flings the crap everywhere so have a vacuum ready here too. for the little places that you miss, home depot sells little cup wire brushes and all different little ones that you can put into a drill. when youre all done with that you can get the remaining residue off with MEK. MAKE SURE you wear a respirator. this stuff can really really mess you up. then youll be about ready to paint.
ahh thanks the help! do you have any advice for the welding part of it?
expanding on what SQD said. if you dont have air tools you can get the wire brush attachments for a drill, get the one that looks like the bristles are wound together. its hard core and will work great......but dont use it on anything you plan to paint
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Car and Driver predicted the future accurately when they wrote that "poems will be written about this engine [and] ballads will be sung." <talking about the FWD sr20.
Do it on a really hot day. Or go with the dry ice method. I have done it the hot day method numerous times. Good fun Some additional advise is to have some friends over and have a few beers first.
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Do it on a really hot day. Or go with the dry ice method. I have done it the hot day method numerous times. Good fun Some additional advise is to have some friends over and have a few beers first.
well id do it on a hot day.. but i live in WA and its already snowing hard core!
for the welding part your really goin to want to make sure you have a all the glue paint and other sh*t away from the area your welding or your goin to have porosity like crazy. next w/o lookin up the gtir stuff i would plan out my stitch size and pattern. like either a half inch or inch weld every inch or 2 inches so all the welds are evenly spaced. once thats figured out and marked off and your ready to weld you're goin to want to put a weldin in one part and then more to another part of the car to keep the heat spread out and you dont wrap one section of the car by puttin too much heat into it. i'd also recommend a chill plate for the back side of the area to be welded to prevent burn thur since the body panels are pretty thin and watch for rust on the back side of parts the weld will suck it thur and contaimante(sp) it. other then that make sure you have the correct filler metal and proper gas coverage and your welds should be fine
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its like learn your fu*kin lesson day around here!!!
for the welding part your really goin to want to make sure you have a all the glue paint and other sh*t away from the area your welding or your goin to have porosity like crazy. next w/o lookin up the gtir stuff i would plan out my stitch size and pattern. like either a half inch or inch weld every inch or 2 inches so all the welds are evenly spaced. once thats figured out and marked off and your ready to weld you're goin to want to put a weldin in one part and then more to another part of the car to keep the heat spread out and you dont wrap one section of the car by puttin too much heat into it. i'd also recommend a chill plate for the back side of the area to be welded to prevent burn thur since the body panels are pretty thin and watch for rust on the back side of parts the weld will suck it thur and contaimante(sp) it. other then that make sure you have the correct filler metal and proper gas coverage and your welds should be fine
ok thanks, is there a certain weld (tig, wire) that is correct for welding the chassis. i know for a cages, they have to be welded a certain way
Some additional advise is to have some friends over and have a few beers first.
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