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allright, someone please break down for me step by step how to adjust rear toe on our cars (and what i need to remove the real lateral links/controls arms (ie, socket/wrench size for bolts etc.
should be a bolt on the end of the control arm that attaches it to the rear subframe or body w/e it is, should probabaly have an off sized washer?
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99 Sentra SE-L (New Ride)
*Hypercos W/AGX's and ME Rear Mounts*
*VRS 2.5" Exhaust*
*SSAC Header*
*NX2000 Brakes*
*Highport Cam*
Soon To Be Turbo
its called an eccentric bolt. on the b13 there are two lower control arms. the rear one has an eccentric bolt where its connected to the chassis. hard to miss if ur looking.
why do u want to change it? are u doing an alignment?
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right rear is visibly toed in, rear lateral link broke and was welded back together
i bought a replacement, went to swap it out and found that on chassis side, the adjustable bolt won't come out of the bracket because it hits the nut for the front lateral link, almost like someone put the bolt in backwards (ie. nut is at rear of car, bolt, towards front of car
point is i wanted to replace that lateral link, but it was such a pain to remove i gave up, and just want to try to correct the alignment so right rear is not toed in
Quote:
Originally Posted by budgetNX
its called an eccentric bolt. on the b13 there are two lower control arms. the rear one has an eccentric bolt where its connected to the chassis. hard to miss if ur looking.
why do u want to change it? are u doing an alignment?
Having just had the complete rear suspension apart installing ES bushings, I have this still clear in my mind. It seems counter-intuitive the way it is set up, but it sounds like they had it installed correctly. When I disassembled mine, I did have to remove the front bolt first (the one next to the gas tank), then the eccentric bolt easily came out. The real bear is getting that main long bolt out that connects the lateral links to the hub. Read up in other suspension threads that deal with the polyurethane bushing install, and you'll see people talking about heating, cutting, hammering the crap out of that bolt to get it free of the hub. I had to use a combination of penetrating oil, air hammering, 3 pound maul, heat, and cutting the end of the bolt I had beat the crap out of get it free of the hub (you could also take it to a machine shop and have them press it out for you). Good news is the bolt is not too expensive, bad news is you need to order it in usually at the stealership (can take a couple of days). Make sure things are appropriately lubed during installation, and get an alignment on the ASAP once it's all back together.
Hope this helps!
Darrin
P.S. I'd really look carefully at that other lateral link, for any signs of bending, cracking, etc, as this will have a major impact on how close you'll be able to get your alignment.
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Sad little 91 NX... recovering nicely!
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