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Go Back   SR20 Forum > Main Forums > Chassis & Suspension



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Old 05-09-2008, 10:42 AM   #1 (permalink)
nasa ser
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rear toe adjustment/ lateral link removal

allright, someone please break down for me step by step how to adjust rear toe on our cars (and what i need to remove the real lateral links/controls arms (ie, socket/wrench size for bolts etc.

thanks!
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Old 05-16-2008, 01:49 PM   #2 (permalink)
nasa ser
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allright, i have posted this in two forums and gotten a grand total of zero responses

how about a little help
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Old 05-16-2008, 02:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
LikeTheMovies
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should be a bolt on the end of the control arm that attaches it to the rear subframe or body w/e it is, should probabaly have an off sized washer?
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Old 05-20-2008, 01:37 AM   #4 (permalink)
budgetNX
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its called an eccentric bolt. on the b13 there are two lower control arms. the rear one has an eccentric bolt where its connected to the chassis. hard to miss if ur looking.

why do u want to change it? are u doing an alignment?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn B View Post

Then you get pissy, belligerant, and your panties get bunched up when someone, namely me, tries to actually help you with a couple of links?!?

Are you f*cking kidding me?!?

You sir, are an unmitigated selfish, egocentric, self-absorbed, DOUCHEBAG and can go f*ck yourself.
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Old 06-03-2008, 10:48 AM   #5 (permalink)
nasa ser
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right rear is visibly toed in, rear lateral link broke and was welded back together

i bought a replacement, went to swap it out and found that on chassis side, the adjustable bolt won't come out of the bracket because it hits the nut for the front lateral link, almost like someone put the bolt in backwards (ie. nut is at rear of car, bolt, towards front of car

point is i wanted to replace that lateral link, but it was such a pain to remove i gave up, and just want to try to correct the alignment so right rear is not toed in

Quote:
Originally Posted by budgetNX View Post
its called an eccentric bolt. on the b13 there are two lower control arms. the rear one has an eccentric bolt where its connected to the chassis. hard to miss if ur looking.

why do u want to change it? are u doing an alignment?
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Old 06-04-2008, 12:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Having just had the complete rear suspension apart installing ES bushings, I have this still clear in my mind. It seems counter-intuitive the way it is set up, but it sounds like they had it installed correctly. When I disassembled mine, I did have to remove the front bolt first (the one next to the gas tank), then the eccentric bolt easily came out. The real bear is getting that main long bolt out that connects the lateral links to the hub. Read up in other suspension threads that deal with the polyurethane bushing install, and you'll see people talking about heating, cutting, hammering the crap out of that bolt to get it free of the hub. I had to use a combination of penetrating oil, air hammering, 3 pound maul, heat, and cutting the end of the bolt I had beat the crap out of get it free of the hub (you could also take it to a machine shop and have them press it out for you). Good news is the bolt is not too expensive, bad news is you need to order it in usually at the stealership (can take a couple of days). Make sure things are appropriately lubed during installation, and get an alignment on the ASAP once it's all back together.

Hope this helps!

Darrin

P.S. I'd really look carefully at that other lateral link, for any signs of bending, cracking, etc, as this will have a major impact on how close you'll be able to get your alignment.
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Old 06-04-2008, 09:09 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyShepherd View Post
you'll see people talking about heating, cutting, hammering the crap out of that bolt to get it free of the hub.

That damn bolt is the reason I now own a Sawzall.
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Old 06-05-2008, 12:32 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan_93SER View Post
That damn bolt is the reason I now own a Sawzall.

I know what both of you mean!!!
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