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Screw driver trick, not working
jacking up the rotor and pounding the snot out of the control arm, not working
me going in the house after and flipping out on my gf because its her fault, working
How do you guys get this ball joint out? I need to change my clutch but of course something wants to get in the way
Halp
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2003 spec v-14.5@96 2.3 60 foot, under going a full n/a build by travis for the qr
93 se-r-under going body work and bigger turbo
you need to put a big ass pry bar threw the control arm so you can push down on it, then beat the knuckel when the ball joint goes into with a BFH. Its a 2 person job
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race car:
1997 200sx se-r - t28 in the works
winter beater:
1995 200sx se-r- crashed then sold
1990 Subaru Legacy- you know you want one
you need to put a big ass pry bar threw the control arm so you can push down on it, then beat the knuckel when the ball joint goes into with a BFH. Its a 2 person job
Loosen the top nut, slide a 14mm(I'm pretty sure that's the size) wrench in between the nut and the top of the ball joint and around the bolt, then attempt to retighten the nut. The ball joint will pop right off... I've done this a number of times.
I learned this trick from the old se-r mailing list years ago... works like a charm.
Peas us Riced,
Mark
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"No Daddy.... it tastes like Butt!"
Loosen the top nut, slide a 14mm(I'm pretty sure that's the size) wrench in between the nut and the top of the ball joint and around the bolt, then attempt to retighten the nut. The ball joint will pop right off... I've done this a number of times.
I learned this trick from the old se-r mailing list years ago... works like a charm.
Peas us Riced,
Mark
thats a great idea actually, i'll do that first thing
its pretty easy if you just undo the sway bar thats connected to the control arm and then use a hammer to hit down on the control arm. its one 14mm nut that you unscrew. you can also use a ball joint remover(pickle fork)
its pretty easy if you just undo the sway bar thats connected to the control arm and then use a hammer to hit down on the control arm. its one 14mm nut that you unscrew. you can also use a ball joint remover(pickle fork)
already took off the sway bar nuts that are connected to the control arm. Its being tricky. I dont want to go buy a pickle fork for this, plus i hear they hurt the ball joint usually.
are you trying to seperate the spindle from the CA? or just tying to get the ball joint out of the CA? if you are trying to seperate them, use a med. sized hammer and hit the spindle were the ball joint goes threw. keep hitting it until it pops.
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My first lover - 1991 NX2000: Rattle Can Army green n' black. (10:1 De+t Avn. setup. open dp. hypercoil springs. FSTB. RSTB. harness bar.) Made it into Project Car tuner mag!
Current lover - 1990 240sx Coupe: Rattle Can Almond white. (Tein coilovers, 16x8/9 Autostrada Modena's. 17x7 axxis drift spares. 6pt autopower roll bar. SS brake lines. Nismo 2way. Corbeau Forza. NRG camlock)
ahh. so you are trying to seperate the spindle from the lower control arm.
take the nut off of the ball joint. and use a good sized hammer and hit the spindle where the ball joint goes through. keep doing it until it pops. it will eventually
ahh. so you are trying to seperate the spindle from the lower control arm.
take the nut off of the ball joint. and use a good sized hammer and hit the spindle where the ball joint goes through. keep doing it until it pops. it will eventually
even with the nut off it still wasnt working, and i am pounding hard on that control arm where the ball joint is pressed. Ive smashed the spindle out of anger too lol
i appreciate the responses guys. Ive got the axle out at least by disconnecting the strut, i just didnt want to have to bring it to the dealer for anything, hopefully by then i'll get that f'r out then change the control arm
anyone know if the ebay control arms are any good?
I back off the nut to protect the end of the threads and then drive a wedge between the top of the nut and the spindle. Sometimes, this is enough. If not, I put one hammer against the spindle at the ball joint and smack the other side of the spindle with a heavy hammer. The ball joint is a "locking taper fit" and the smacking with the hammer is supposed to distort the hole in the spindle enough to break the fit. Having a heavy object on the back side of where you are hitting helps with the distortion.
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"If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough." - Mario Andretti
I back off the nut to protect the end of the threads and then drive a wedge between the top of the nut and the spindle. Sometimes, this is enough. If not, I put one hammer against the spindle at the ball joint and smack the other side of the spindle with a heavy hammer. The ball joint is a "locking taper fit" and the smacking with the hammer is supposed to distort the hole in the spindle enough to break the fit. Having a heavy object on the back side of where you are hitting helps with the distortion.
hes right get a heavy hammer take the nut off and give a few good hits to that spindle, just how to jump a tie rod you jump the ball joint. it might take 2 hits or it might take 15 hits but that suckeer will jump oh yeay yoo can make work easier if you move the tie rod and axel from the spindle more room work less time for error like that hammer busting that axel boot
buy some PV blast and put a jack under the CA and swing for the fence's!! the control arm and ball joint are taper'd to lock in to place so a couple good size hits to the side of the CA where it goes around the ball joint will free (it should)!! good luck
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