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i have a lower 3 point brace from progress that i'm tring to use with a 2.5 in ebay header but it rubs. has anyone else had this problem and came up with a good solution . i know some people run the same with no problem. also i have a asp budget header on order. has any one used this brace with it. it a nice brace would hate to not use it.
i have a lower 3 point brace from progress that i'm tring to use with a 2.5 in ebay header but it rubs. has anyone else had this problem and came up with a good solution . i know some people run the same with no problem. also i have a asp budget header on order. has any one used this brace with it. it a nice brace would hate to not use it.
I am having the same issue. Just installed a Progress LCA and it rattles.
I checked my exhaust mounts, there is major play in the exhaust system. The mounts are old, saggy, and do not look at all like picture of new exhaust hangers. I can grab the exhaust between the cat and the muffler and with light one-armed "bouncing" on the exhaust, I can get that muffler wagging around, and the secondary to lightly hit the Progress LCA. Even though at rest there is a half-inch or so of clearance.
At 2000-2500 rpms or so, particularly in 5th, the exhaust catches the right resonance and rattles against that LCA loud enough to drive me nuts.
At first I thought my new (pre-owned) tranny had taken a dump.
Based on my evaluation of the exhaust hangers, I searched for "exhaust+hanger." Kartboy used to sell a 10mm urethane exhaust hanger that fit perfect. Currently they only sell 12mm or 15mm urethane exhast hangers. The other name that also popped up under exhaust hangers was "Nismo". I had no idea Nissan had in-house performance-shop exhaust hangers. They probably add like ten whp per pair. At least. And I bet that Nismo is real, real proud of those fancy hangers.
Therefore, despite the expected cost, I am ordering a full set of Nismo exhaust hangers today from Greg V at G-Spec Performance (Forum Vendor). Mine look like ass anyways, if the tighter/newer/non-stretched-out (probably higher durometer rubber, or urethane) new Nismo exhaust hangers does not solve the rattle/rubbing problem, the hangers needed to be replaced soon anyways.
So currently, I have not completed my searching yet. See if anyone has modified the Progress LCA or SSAC to clear better. Or what solutions there are available that someone else has already engineered. Nothing like a pre-engineered solution, preferably with pictures, to make me happy.
Basically, check your exhaust hangers, search, and I'll repost when my Nismo hangers are in place to see if that works. It makes sense to me, but I might be way off base.
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2004 Tahoe, stock and fully loaded.
'93 Classic - Original Owner, "OEM Plus" modifications
Thanks for the input. i think my problem is a little different thought. mine hits the brace all the time. i'm in the process of modifing the brace to give me alittle more clearance. by redoing the bends i also modified the exhaust hanger some to help keep it in the tunnel alittle better. but new hanger are agood idea i'll let you know how i make out. i should be reinstalling the brace this weekend.
Shawn, you can just order the 8mm or 9mm off of ebay and drill them out. I'm pretty certain their much cheaper than the Nismo ones and will serve the same purpose at a fraction of the cost. My exhaust used to wag the tail pretty bad and bang against everything, but after installation, nothing.
Just an idea. Oh, good luck putting on those bushings.
I used to have rubbing issues also. I swapped out all of the stock hangers to kartboy hangers. From the downpipe all the way to the muffler. It stopped the rattling noises. I'll post pics later.
Shawn, you can just order the 8mm or 9mm off of ebay and drill them out. I'm pretty certain their much cheaper than the Nismo ones and will serve the same purpose at a fraction of the cost. My exhaust used to wag the tail pretty bad and bang against everything, but after installation, nothing.
Just an idea. Oh, good luck putting on those bushings.
The Nismo set is $20.00 per hanger.
Yeah, I bought a set, Greg V at G-Spec. I'll post pictures when I get them, after installation, and post results on my exhorbitantly priced "fix" for my rattling exhaust.
Hey, that "Nismo" on my exhaust hangers should net me an additional ten horsepower....per hanger.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diabolic Hippo
I used to have rubbing issues also. I swapped out all of the stock hangers to kartboy hangers. From the downpipe all the way to the muffler. It stopped the rattling noises. I'll post pics later.
Good. Then my fancy-schmancy Nismo hangers should fix the issue as well.
Nothing like $120.00 worth of exhaust hangers on my $120.00 SSAC header/downpipe, and stock-from-the catback OEM exhaust.
I don't want to burst your bubble bro but you'll have to loose the progress bar to fit the budget header. If the flex pipe was positionded a little further forward, it would work, but it isn't so out it will have to come.
I don't want to burst your bubble bro but you'll have to loose the progress bar to fit the budget header. If the flex pipe was positionded a little further forward, it would work, but it isn't so out it will have to come.
I have the budget header w/ the progress lca & have no clearance issues since I swapped out the exhaust hangers. Take a look the pictures I posted.
Prior to swapping out the hangers, the header sat right on the bar.
I don't want to burst your bubble bro but you'll have to loose the progress bar to fit the budget header. If the flex pipe was positionded a little further forward, it would work, but it isn't so out it will have to come.
I don't think so.
I have nearly a half-inch of clearance between the secondary and my Progress LCAB. It is only when the exhaust is flopping around that the secondary manages to briefly contact and rattle against the LCAB.
The clearance is not an issue. The excessive play in the old, tired-ass, worn-out, droopy, saggy, 178K mile, 16-year old, OEM mounts is the issue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diabolic Hippo
I have the budget header w/ the progress lca & have no clearance issues since I swapped out the exhaust hangers. Take a look the pictures I posted.
Prior to swapping out the hangers, the header sat right on the bar.
Based on my investigations under my vehicle, and Diabolic Hippo's experience, I am quite positive that my new Nismo (LOL) exhaust hangers are going to fix my issue.
I haf the same set up and it hit the brace ...If you want to be real cheap just put hose clamp's around the exhaust hangers !Thats what i did till i got some hard rubber hangers . But that look's ghetto ....
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91se-r track/show car gt2560 241hp and 225tq @7psi
1/4 mile: 13.019 @ 109mph (no traction street tires)
-1996 se-r ve-t blown up and sold
-1971 datsun 510 2dr will be running again
I haf the same set up and it hit the brace ...If you want to be real cheap just put hose clamp's around the exhaust hangers !Thats what i did till i got some hard rubber hangers . But that look's ghetto ....
No hose clamps, thanks.
I got the Nismo Exhaust Hangers (LOL) in earlier this week. "Racing" exhaust hangers just makes me laugh and shake my head.
I inspected them and shot some pictures of them "side by side" with the original OEM hangers.
The Original OEM hangers look like semi-limp, wilted, flaccid rubber bands. A huge "hole" engineered into the design, right in the middle of the hanger, with "strips" of rubber connecting the top portion and bottom portion. They are extremely loose and worn out. I can take one hand, grab the exhaust, and with very light pressure move the exhaust around enough to touch the Progress LCA.
The new Nismo exhaust hangers look (exactly) like the Kartboy hangers. A solid oval shaped peice of harder durometer rubber, one hole at each end for the metal to stick through.
By comparing them side-by-side, the majority of the exhaust will be moved upwards by about a half-inch. Nor will the exhaust be able to move much (under g-loads) from that new elevated position. The Nismo hangers will not have anywhere close to the amount of play in them that the OEM hangers had, even when they were brand new.
I'm picking up the Classic tomorrow, and shall report back on this rattling situation, plus I'll post some pictures.
I am hoping that Chipey is wrong, and Diabolic Hippo is right.
If not, I will still have the ultra-uber-kewl Nismo hangers. Sure to impress the rice-boyZ the next time I go to the Nopi Nationals. Right after I install my Lambo-Scissor-Doors and neon dash lights.
Whats the word on your rattling, ive been think about getting that same brace, but i would probally need those sweeeeet NISMO hangers.lol
put up some pics and let us know if it fixed your problem.
Shawn B, clearance IS an issue if you are using Progress FSB with the Progess LCA brace and the 2.5" pipe. You've got at most a few mm on top or bottom to play with. I've thought about having Progess make a custom LCA with a longer drop, but it's already a low hanging piece - a brick or rock hit mine which is why the powercoat is missing in this pic.
Another thing not mentioned (or I can't see it) is change the angle the DP meets the brace and sway. I raised my front MM just a little bit and that change in angle raises the DP over the brace, and drops the bar near the massive Progress FSWB. I also used Kart-Boy hangers, less movement the better.
Another thing I've seen on my U13's stock DP is a banded steel clamp (just flat thin steel conformed to the shape of the DP) which then bolts onto a piece attached to the body. That does not move at all. You'd have to fab your own, Nissan makes them for 2" or slightly smaller DP's.
Btw in all fairness, this thread ought to be called "Problems with Cheap-Ass SSAC Clone Header DP hitting my Sways and LCA", it ain't just a Progress issue. I also would NOT suggest even considering bending the Progress LCA, you are asking for serious problems with stress risers in the metal, and you might also end up stressing the LCA center mount bolts. Why should you care? Because if those bolts break there's nothing holding the rear spar of the rear MM to the car.
Besides, look where you need to "bend" - too close to the pre-bent angle and too close to the center support:
Put too much stress on the center and you have this fun problem, extracto-broken-bolt, one of my fun jobs last year when whatever I ran over smacked the brace hard enough to shear the bolt head. That's broken off in the chassis and took some careful extractor use (tapered and spiral) along with Cobalt drill bits and TIME:
Excuse the mess, had both PS res overflow issue from autocross (love those B14 res tanks now) and slowly leaking trans fluid from a switch blowing back all over the place.
Besides hangers I also finally used header wrap. Honestly I just wish for the price of the header I'd measured and taken a few pieces of wood, a vice, and ovalized the DP a little at each point. All you need is maybe 2-3 mm additional clearance and it won't hit with good hangers. I doubt the "performance" hit would have been measurable. As you can see, the cheapo header can't even handle rain, it never sees salt, and it rusted in a year anyway. The header really looks like crap now for SS. Must be some low grade stainless.
I don't want to burst your bubble bro but you'll have to loose the progress bar to fit the budget header. If the flex pipe was positionded a little further forward, it would work, but it isn't so out it will have to come.
Not true at least on the B13, look at my pics above. The flex pipe is forward of the LCA bar clearly by a larger margin. You can pull the pipe up off the bar toward the cat with stiffer and shorter hangers, but in my case the large FSWB makes that not really an option. I have to thread the needle...w/o that massive sway bar it would be a piece of cake the way Shawn implies.
Granted the Hotshot 2.25" pipe looks better all the time, for that extra 0.25" you pay with headaches. Look how much clearance it had with the same bars, if anything the hotshot flex section is cutting it really close to the bar:
Also I am guessing the brick/rock impact on my bar bent the center section and pushed the bar up since the welded on plate seems to be a little more vertical in the older pic.
Prob time to call Progress and get a new LCA bar, this one has taken its hits. Looking at the pics together, the LCA center support is clearly mangled.
I wish I was around when Progress gave their rationale for the 3rd point position. Other than snagging road kill with the cross member bolts, my old Nord bar has never hit anything. It looks to have stronger bracing than the Progress.
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Bruce in Houston
1994 Nissan Sentra SE-R (original owner) w/ $tuff, converting to ITA (even more $tuff)
1996 Dodge Viper RT/10 (RIP, Dad)
1998 Suzuki Bandit 1200S w/ $tuff, W.W.B.O.C. #101 (wanna buy?)
2002 Dodge Dakota tow beast, stock!
2007 Mazda MX-5 Touring w/ $tuff
2011 Infiniti G37S RIP swwwinger
I wish I was around when Progress gave their rationale for the 3rd point position. Other than snagging road kill with the cross member bolts, my old Nord bar has never hit anything. It looks to have stronger bracing than the Progress.
I won't even address the structural benefits, because that rational is just basic engineering. The bracing was strong enough to take a very hard blow at speed and not crack or break, it flexed enough to pop the bolt head off one of spar mounts. It is plenty strong, trust me. Sorry if I gave the wrong impression. I have another type of LCA that uses U-bolts to wrap the spar; it works well, but it's not as strong as the Progress unit and the end mounts are welded plates slotted into the bar.
These are from my U13 which is undergoing some extensive mainteance work and upgrades, Winter isn't kind to my '95 Alty. Note the second pic shows a pretty good idea, the old OEM DP used a clamp around the DP near the bend which prevents the pipe from moving. Too bad it was 1 7/8" in diameter and rusted out the flex joint twice in less than 10 years - garbage.
The ONLY reason I have damaged my Progress Bar is my car is pretty low, is driven on rough and irregular roads near where I live, AND most importantly, I ran over a ROCK the size of a brick or larger at night, it may have been a broken piece of curbing that fell off the back of trash hauler or town truck. Imagine hitting a dark object 3" or taller, 6" long at least, at speed and your first clue is the noise of impact. It would be like running over a short piece of curbing 90 deg on at speed. How many parts would survive hitting a curb at 40-50 mph? Mine did.
Only thing I've ever hit worse than that was a frost heave 6" or more vertical at 105-110 mph in my G Coupe, hard enough to smack my head hard on the roof, and bottom our the rear suspension (400+ lbs/in) so hard it lifted the ass end of the car off the road. Again at night, hadn't been on that road in a long time and it's completely unlit and remote. I don't recommend that and still amazed I didn't ruin any of the wheels (OEM 18's at the time).
Also if you read these posts carefully the bar is not too low, the issue is a very large DP may strike the top of the LCA because it is high enough to do so. Then a 2.5" or 3" DP may also strike the large FSWB.
I had been using OEM style hangers and replaced some with Kart-Boy, but the real benefit came from replacing both cat hangers - THOSE are the ones that really matter, it eliminated the rattling and vibration problem. I ordered a set for the WRX as I believe was mentioned earlier.
Also the full set of Kart Boy hangers were much less than the NISMO price Shawn mentions. I paid <$40 for a set of 4, which was all I needed - two for the cat, 2 more for the next two hanger points back from the cat.
If any of our sponsors carry them, they are plenty strong and highly recommend them. If not, they should - getting the cat hangers on was tough and thankfully on a lift, but now it doesn't go anywhere.
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