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Picking up the new project this weekend ('91 SE-R) and will be installing an AGX/GC setup shortly after, with the Energy suspension complete bushing kit. Searched this section for "alignment" and "recommended alignment" and turned up nothing. What settings do everyone use?
Car will mainly be used for a daily driver, but will see some track time and an occasional canyon run here or there.
my nx was about:
back: -1.5camber (couldnt adjust) , 0 toe
front: -1camber , .5 toe out
the 240 is:
back: -3 camber (cant adjust) , 0 toe
front: -1.4 camber , .5 toe out
fyi i drive the sh*t out of my cars. i dont drive fast, but every corner is a race track
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My first lover - 1991 NX2000: Rattle Can Army green n' black. (10:1 De+t Avn. setup. open dp. hypercoil springs. FSTB. RSTB. harness bar.) Made it into Project Car tuner mag!
Current lover - 1990 240sx Coupe: Rattle Can Almond white. (Tein coilovers, 16x8/9 Autostrada Modena's. 17x7 axxis drift spares. 6pt autopower roll bar. SS brake lines. Nismo 2way. Corbeau Forza. NRG camlock)
Cool, thanks. I've been doing some reading on the energy suspension bushing kit, and am going to skip it for now. I'll install the kyb/GC stuff on friday night before saturday's track day. (try to keep the alignment the same) Then get it aligned officially on monday.
Find a good alignment shop with new equipment and someone who knows how to use it. State-of-the-art alignment equipment uses lasers. When I had mine done, the technician sat in the drivers seat for the final set-up to compensate for driver weight. He said that is critical for lighter weight cars. Front wheels are usually set with a little toe-in because forward motion tends to move them toward toe-out as the suspension deflects. Too much toe-out and the car may want to "hunt" on the road.
If I had to choose, I would pick a man with experience and older equipment over new equipment with someone who doesn't know what alignment does to a car. I once had a van aligned by an old guy with manual equipment (no lights, no lasers). He told me that my van would pull right for a couple of weeks because of the tire wear and then be fine. Happened exactly that way.
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"If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough." - Mario Andretti
If I had to choose, I would pick a man with experience and older equipment over new equipment with someone who doesn't know what alignment does to a car.
I work at Flyin Miata, and we have a local shop do all of our alignments. Not sure how new their equipment is, but they do a good job.
Find a good alignment shop with new equipment and someone who knows how to use it. State-of-the-art alignment equipment uses lasers. When I had mine done, the technician sat in the drivers seat for the final set-up to compensate for driver weight. He said that is critical for lighter weight cars. Front wheels are usually set with a little toe-in because forward motion tends to move them toward toe-out as the suspension deflects. Too much toe-out and the car may want to "hunt" on the road.
If I had to choose, I would pick a man with experience and older equipment over new equipment with someone who doesn't know what alignment does to a car. I once had a van aligned by an old guy with manual equipment (no lights, no lasers). He told me that my van would pull right for a couple of weeks because of the tire wear and then be fine. Happened exactly that way.
^Where in the ATL did you have it done? I would drive for service like this. We have a lot of sh*t shops in the North GA area. Makes me want to throw up thinking about it.
__________________ Bend But Don't Break
93 SE-RProject 2Door - 2.0VE Gio tune - built 2.3VE up next.
93 XE-R Project 4Door - DE+T - Money Pit. Building N/A and Boost, the best of both worlds.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SR20GTi-R
NA is a thinking man's game, alot of people dont have the stomach to play NA.
I had the laser alignment done at Vic Williams Tire in Dallas. The front tires on my B14 wore completely uniform through their entire tread life. I have never had that happen before on any FWD car that I have had. They have a fixture for bending Mustang rear axles for alignment and they were willing to try to help me bend my rear beam before we got Steve to come to Atlanta.
I would certainly run more than 1 degree if you are going to be driving hard on the track at all.
It also depends on what the ride height is like and what your spring rates are. I would run the car about 0.75" lower than stock and 1.25 degrees of camber for a good dual purpose car.
Just for reference B13 race setups usually run 3 degrees or more of camber. Of course this wouldn't work too well on the street!
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Climate Change skeptics are the new Flat Earth Society
zero toe up front for sure. Camber really does not kill tires the way toe does. 1.25 - 1.5 would be no issue. The only issue with a fair amount of camber might be wet weather traction depending on tire choice.
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