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Does anyone use camber bolts for their b13? We're going LeMons racing and camber plates are basically out of the budget, but we still need some camber. Have you used camber bolts with success, and if so, where did you get them? (Cheapest available is preferable)
I have a set on my B14. I bought some OBX(I believe that was the brand) off ebay for $30 or so. It was a set of four eccentrics. I have all four on my car and was easily able to get 0 Camber. I would say my car is about 1.5" lower than stock maybe a little more just to give you a reference. I know you are asking for a B13 but I hope this helps.
It's lemons man. Just widen the top hole in the spindle. Which race are you doing? We're making our sentra debut at CMP
Yeah, guess so. Still not 100% in the LeMons mindset I guess. I don't have a strut in front of me to look at, is there enough material / clearance to safely get enough camber with slotting?
We are going to be popping our LeMons cherry at Gingerman in April
Quote:
Originally Posted by ESPsound
I have a set on my B14. I bought some OBX(I believe that was the brand) off ebay for $30 or so. It was a set of four eccentrics. I have all four on my car and was easily able to get 0 Camber. I would say my car is about 1.5" lower than stock maybe a little more just to give you a reference. I know you are asking for a B13 but I hope this helps.
hehe, we are going the other way: need MORE camber! but either way, thanks for your help. Ever have any problems with them - slipping and losing adjustment or anything?
Yeah, guess so. Still not 100% in the LeMons mindset I guess. I don't have a strut in front of me to look at, is there enough material / clearance to safely get enough camber with slotting?
Be careful, once you get into the Lemons mindset, it's hard to get out. After working on the Lemons car a bunch, I have to stop my self from fixing my own car with hammers and sawzalls. We cut the springs which lowered the car, stiffened the spring rate and added neg. camber. I might put some more camber in, but it's probably at 1.5 neg now and the springs are stiff and the car is light, so it might not need much more. I'll probably end up slotting the spindles to get another .5 degrees though. There is good clearance to get at least 1 degree, just don't get too happy. You can get camber bolts, but that comes out of the $500 budget.
[QUOTE=LeMon200SX;2493840...We cut the springs which lowered the car, stiffened the spring rate and added neg. camber. ...[/QUOTE]
Cut stock springs? How much did you take off? And how much did that lower it? Do you have any concerns about having adequate travel? What kind of shocks do you have and what kind of condition are they in? Our shocks are, of course, worn out stockers so I'm a little concerned about upping the rate and decreasing the travel.
Our shock are decent. We cut about 2 coils off and it went from about a 3" fender gap to a 1" gap. I haven't flogged it yet, but just driving it over roads, it doesn't pogo. With no budget left you have 2 choices: dragging the fenders body roll, or no-travel blown shocks that ride like ass, but a ton less body roll. We chose the latter. If you decide to leave the springs, you're gonna need about 4 degrees neg camber to keep the tire from rolling over.
I have a set on my B14. I bought some OBX(I believe that was the brand) off ebay for $30 or so. It was a set of four eccentrics. I have all four on my car and was easily able to get 0 Camber. I would say my car is about 1.5" lower than stock maybe a little more just to give you a reference. I know you are asking for a B13 but I hope this helps.
Why would you want 0 camber?
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1996 200SX SE-R VE powered
2004 Subaru Forester turbo
2006 Mitsubishi Evolution IX
Our shock are decent. We cut about 2 coils off and it went from about a 3" fender gap to a 1" gap. I haven't flogged it yet, but just driving it over roads, it doesn't pogo. With no budget left you have 2 choices: dragging the fenders body roll, or no-travel blown shocks that ride like ass, but a ton less body roll. We chose the latter. If you decide to leave the springs, you're gonna need about 4 degrees neg camber to keep the tire from rolling over.
If your shocks can't handle cut springs, they will fail just the same on ebay coilovers. I haven't driven it hard yet, so I dunno. Thought I'd try the free mod before I dip $50 into the budget.
I have never had any problems with the bolts slipping or anything like that.
I want zero camber because I don't want to eat through tires. I understand that having some camber is good but I don't take my car to courses or tracks and I have a pretty good suspension set up that it suits me for the street.
2. Reduce acceleration traction if it's applied on the drive wheels
3. Increase the tendency to follow cracks and grooves in the pavement
4. Increase wandering caused by road crown
5. Affect tire wear; the insides of the tire tread will wear faster with more negative camber if you don't corner hard. Conversely, if you constantly corner hard, your tires will wear more evenly and last longer
wouldnt that depend on how you drive the car with the camber?....thats what its all about. a tires contact with the road under hard cornering.....
The key to that is too much negative camber. 1.5 - 2 deg negative camber will not wear your tires out unless you never rotate them. 0 deg camber in the front is almost dangerous, since the tires will roll over onto the outside edges under cornering.
Both camber and toe eat tires, Im aware of that. I never thought about the zero camber wearing on the outside during hard cornering. Next time I get an alignment I will look into getting some negative camber. What would you recommend eric? 1.0 Deg Neg? I do rotate my tires every other oil change so I know Im getting proper rotation and wear out of them. Thanks for the input eric you always give a very worthy two cents!
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