P11 for turbo applications. Longer gear ratios.
B15 for naturally aspirated applications.
Make sure you get the "right years" on that tranny, the "new style beefy as hell case" and an LSD.
This post linked below indicates 2000 and 2001 transmissions only. I *think* that is right (?). I just bought mine from GregV and told him I wanted "the beefy B15 tranny." He knows the right years for sure.
http://www.sr20forum.com/driveline-t...tml#post950922
YES, upgrade to the
1) P11 now for long-term reliability.
2) Also get an Andreas Miko Tranny Saver Bracket (inexpensive), and
3) buy a very good quality clutch (I like the ones that GregV offers as a "kit", I've got his Stage 3),
4) Prothane motor and tranny mounts,
5) Redline tranny fluid, and if you are feeling wealthy,
6) throw in a light-weight flywheel to seal the deal.
Andreas Miko Tranny Saver Bracket:
http://www.sr20-forum.com/naturally-...kets-sale.html
GSpec (Greg V) clutch kits:
http://gspec.com/c-30-transmission.aspx
Then you will have a near "bullet-proof" tranny/clutch combo that will last.
I'm going VE (when funds permit) and I did everything on my "list" above in anticipation of the new motor.
With my simple bolted-on OEM DE, I have broken that damn B13 tranny three (3) times. F*ck that tranny. The third time it broke, I did the above "remedy" which includes every single thing I could find (lots of reSearch) to make my transmission as strong and reliable as possible.
You do not want your tranny dying in freakin' Poland.
Hope that helps.
