A community of enthusiasts dedicated to Nissan's SR20DE/SR20VE/SR20DET engines.
Start here: forum search. Be sure to search on what you're looking for before posting a new thread.
You are currently browsing the forum as a guest. In order to access special features, the image gallery, and post you will need to be a registered member. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the administrator.
Well, this has finally gotten me tired. The clutch only engages at the very top of the pedal. If I tap it a 1/4 of the way down, it will disengages. Clutch grabs pretty good for a 135K stock clutch. I was wondering if I could make the clutch engage/disengage lower. I hate this especially when I am "getting on it". I know it sounds ricerish but my car rarely spins second with decent mods and sh*tty tires when I know guys with stock classics chirping second no problem, even know of GA's spinning second. Now the question is, is it the clutch cable or the clutch pedal? Which one has to be adjusted. I tried to adjust the cable but its so damn rusted and when I try to twist it with my hands it twists the whole wire. Any way of breaking it free nice and easy? I'd like to get this done so it would make it better when I try to push the car here and there.
__________________
-Bes
92 Sentra GTi-R
Small Snail Crew ----BNB----
I tried but damn thing won't budge. I'll try it out once more tomorrow. I hate having to replace the clutch cable, such a tight area for a guy with big hands. I figured it would be the cable but I have heard you can adjust the pedal.
cable is stretched believe me you wanna feel fukin good.. buy a new one at nissan .. listen to me just fukin do it.. pay whatever you gotta pay put it on.. an i bet youll be happier then a june bug on a dogs ass. you will thank god when you are done.. thats how good it feels.
__________________
Danny GDM (HKS)
1993 PRiMERA GT
Nissan Ecology Oriented Variable Valve Lift and Timing
I can get a replacement cable no issue. I don't think the cable is stretched. There is A LOT of adjustment that could be made on the cable. I want to give that a shot before I get pissed and replace the whole thing.
Ok, don't get a new cable untill you are sure it cannot be tightened...
Let me just tell you, I know what you mean with second. There is nothing like hitting a little second when taking friends for rides. The look on there face is un-dicribable... Well I just learned how to adjust my cable, and I am hoping this is your problem. Now what you have to do is look at the small assembly. There is the big wheel you turn, then the cable goes through the bracket, then on the other side there is a small nut. The nut must be loosend. You will have to hold the adjustment wheel with your fingers, then use a 10mm wrench on the small nut, which when un-tightened. Will allow you to spin the adjustment wheel whilst holding the wire..then when you are done, re tighten the nut. I bought mine, and it was set to engage right off the floor. Now i have it set all the way to the top because i just like the feel, But when it was at the floor, I could chirp second at 5k.. Now I have to push it a lil more but she still does it for me... And if it is raining....LOLZ. Hope I helped. TTYL
Dudeman
__________________
Looking for a shell
1991 SE-R
"I've decided that because Einstein identified that objects travel through time at a slower rate with an increasing velocity, we should go as fast as possible to increase our lifespan."
Yeah bro, thats what I tried doing. The problem is that big wheel when I try to twist it, it twists with the whole cable. I need to get my hands on some PB blaster. The whole assembly will more than likely have to be changed since the 6 puck is going in soon.
yeah i think that might be ur best bet, just get a new cable. but dont throw this one out just keep it in ur trunk as a emergency cable cause when i bought a brand new one it lasted a week before it snapped.
Damn. Now my problem is, how the hell am I going to get enough slack in the cable to get it off of the arm that connects to the bellhousing. Ugh, I hate clutch cables man, too damn tight of an area to work with.
Damn. Now my problem is, how the hell am I going to get enough slack in the cable to get it off of the arm that connects to the bellhousing. Ugh, I hate clutch cables man, too damn tight of an area to work with.
Couple things you can do.
Blast the sh*t out of the adjustment assembly with PB blaster. You can get this at any hardware/auto parts store. Do this in the morning, at lunch break, and before you go to bed. The next day, tackle it again, and it shouldn't give you any problems.
If you decide you want a quick fix, on our clutch pedal assembly there is a bolt that controls how far the pedal can travel OUT (out as in towards the rear of the car). It is in plain sight when you get down there under the dash. If when the clutch pedal is released completely (no pressure provided by your foot) you feel like the clutch is slipping/disengaged a little, you can adjust this bolt to allow the pedal to rest OUT an inch or so. This gives you more travel and brings the 'engagement window' within the pedals 'travel window.'
Buy a new cable, clean out the old one and use it as a backup.
Don't be scared to pull the clutch cable out. It is very easy. The only things you need to do is this:
1) Detatch cable from thrower arm (engine bay).
2) Get in the most akward position possible under your dash, stick your arm up on the drivers side of the clutch pedal assembly, and feel around until you find where the clutch cable attatches to it. Grab the little square of metal (you'll know what I am talking about when you feel it) that is attatched to the cable as best as you can (it's a tight fit) and pull it towards the REAR of the car, while pushing it towards the TOP of the car (back and up).
3) Get out of your akward position (requires much finesse if you are 6'4"), go back to your engine bay, and pull on the clutch cable rubber tube. It will pop right out of the firewall and you are good to go.
I think I need to go out on a search for some of that PB blaster. I was going to mess with that bolt that adjusts the pedal but I was worried if I adjusted it too much it would cause the clutch to not fully engage and ride on it and possibly toast it. I need to try the PB blaster first. Next step will be a new clutch cable. Thanks for the help guys!
if it turns the entire cable there is a square section on the cable you can clamp a vise grip and it will stop it from turning....and PB Blaster is the bomb!
__________________
1991 xe....dead(boneyard)
1994 e.....dead(parted out)
1993 nx2k....dead(road kill hit by a f150)(parted out)
91 sentra E jdm sr20de swapped, HIEPDTO^UFSW...dead(chopped up, molested and parted out)
2007 hyundai accent DD for now
1987 pulsar se AWD-T
www.lubedealer.com/dkinney
for all your amsoil synthetic oils and filters
also sell ngk , mother, wix, and other products!
I took my cable out in no time. The problem is putting the bitch back on. I didn't think i was going to be able to do it. But after about ten minutes i finally got it reattached to the pedal.
Just replace the damn cable already and quit making excuses in not doing it. YOu are going to regret it when finally snaps in the middle of traffic. I went thru 4 of them in 3 years beacuse the first 3 I got them from AutoZone. The last I sucked up the money to get the real deal from Nissan and never had any other problems.
Oh, if you are having to use PB Blaster to get the nut loose, YOU BETTER change the cable because rust and corrosion have already set in on the cable inside of the rubber sleeve also.
DO IT NOW BEFORE IT BREAKS.
P.S. There is nothing to adjust on the pedal itself. Just the cable and the clutch/cruise control switch.
__________________ 1982 Toyota Starlet with Starion turbo swap STOLEN!! 1986 300ZX Turbo with 87k miles 1991 Nissan Tsuru GSR2000 with UK SR20DE IT'S BACK!!!! 1992 Eclipse GS-X 325 hp SOLD 1993 NX2000 SOLD!
Last edited by NissanEgg : 12-09-2006 at 10:05 PM.
I changed my cable a long time ago. No issues just yet but it still engages high. I find it weird because sometimes it engages very high and other times it engages at the bottom without even adjusting the cable. My question is, If I tighten my clutch cable too much, will it ride the pressure plate and cause premature wear on the clutch or is it okay to adjust the cable to where I want the pedal height?
Trust me, you are better off spending the $$ on a new cable from Nissan (GregV ).
It cost me over $1k when my 145k cable snapped, ripping the clutch release arm off of the tranny housing.
As has been stated, if you cannot loosen the adjustment nut, more than likely the cable has lost all internal lubricant. This will lead to your cable stretching and eventually snapping the clutch release arm off the tranny.
__________________
1992 SE-R WHT - SOLD
1992 SE-R BLK - R.I.P.
1999 Integra GS
1991 Integra LS -
if you want your cable to engage lower I think you need to loosen the cable & not tighten it.
when you tighten the cable the clutch will engage sooner, or at a higher point in the clutch pedal path.
Think of it this way... when you tighten the cable the t/o bearing will touch the pressure plate sooner and release the disc. if you loosen it it will touch the pressure plate fingers later i.e. engaging closer to the floor.
When its cold outside the clutch cable contracts, and when its hot it expands...
I'll try that out and see if it makes a difference. The cable has been changed for a while now. I was hesitant to change it out myself but I did it and was a piece of cake. I need to go play with the cable and see if I can get it to engage at a nice point. I just wish the pedal was closer to the floor.
Now the question is, is it the clutch cable or the clutch pedal? Which one has to be adjusted. I tried to adjust the cable but its so damn rusted and when I try to twist it with my hands it twists the whole wire. Any way of breaking it free nice and easy? I'd like to get this done so it would make it better when I try to push the car here and there.
Well I just learned how to adjust my cable, and I am hoping this is your problem. Now what you have to do is look at the small assembly. There is the big wheel you turn, then the cable goes through the bracket, then on the other side there is a small nut. The nut must be loosend. You will have to hold the adjustment wheel with your fingers, then use a 10mm wrench on the small nut, which when un-tightened. Will allow you to spin the adjustment wheel whilst holding the wire..then when you are done, re tighten the nut. I bought mine, and it was set to engage right off the floor. Now i have it set all the way to the top because i just like the feel, But when it was at the floor, I could chirp second at 5k.. Now I have to push it a lil more but she still does it for me...
And if it is raining....LOLZ. Hope I helped. TTYL
