A community of enthusiasts dedicated to Nissan's SR20DE/SR20VE/SR20DET engines.
Start here: forum search. Be sure to search on what you're looking for before posting a new thread.
You are currently browsing the forum as a guest. In order to access special features, the image gallery, and post you will need to be a registered member. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the administrator.
I installed ST 20mm rear sway bar about a week ago and I pretty much hated it form the first day because of insane overseeing. I have been driving for 5 years everyday on the same highway to work and I know every bump on that road and the max speed on every corner. Today, as I was exiting the highway at about 45 mi/h my car lifted the inside rear tire at fist and then, all of sudden, it spun 360 degrees and hit a road fence with headlight. I know that with OEM 10mm rear sway bar that would have never happened because I with EOM setup took the same exit at 55+ m/h and I never spun but slipped evenly until about 47 mi/h and I took the rest of the curve with throttle all the way to the floor.
So, I am going to take out that 20mm crap and go for a smaller bar. Does anyone know if 15mm OEM SE-R rear sway bar can be bolted on a 1994, 4rd B13 that comes with 10mm OEM rear bar?
By the way here is a pic right after the accident today. Likely the car was still drivable so I went to a junk yard and tried to pull out the damaged metal around the headlight frame...
The thing that pisses me off is that I just dynamited the whole body so I must restore it. Plus I believe that this particular Sentra is lucky because I ALWAYS push it to its limits on city roads and this is the fist accident in my driving carrier. But it happened because of stupid ST sway bar designers. Seriously since I installed that sway bar I could not even use the hand brake for cornering because my rear tires slipped whenever they wanted to and I was literally scared to torch the hand brake with that ST sh*t on my rear axle.
I ALWAYS push it to its limits on city roads and this is the fist accident in my driving carrier.
But it happened because of stupid ST sway bar designers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FANTASY's other thread
My front end is 1.2'' lowered with Eibach springs and rear end is stock.
Seriously since I installed that sway bar I could not even use the hand brake for cornering because my rear tires slipped whenever they wanted to and I was literally scared to torch the hand brake with that ST sh*t on my rear axle.
with EOM setup took the same exit at 55+ m/h and I never spun but slipped evenly until about 47 mi/h and I took the rest of the curve with throttle all the way to the floor.
So, I am going to take out that 20mm crap and go for a smaller bar. Does anyone know if 15mm OEM SE-R rear sway bar can be bolted on a 1994, 4rd B13 that comes with 10mm OEM rear bar?
By the way here is a pic right after the accident today. Likely the car was still drivable so I went to a junk yard and tried to pull out the damaged metal around the headlight frame...
Why the hell are you taking curves on public roads at speeds that you know will cause your vehicle to slide sideways? Slow the hell down, or take it to a track. Geezus.
No, it did not happen because of the ST engineers. It happened because you modified your suspension, without understanding much about suspensions. You have Eibachs in front, which suck balls, and the stock suspension in the rear. You have unbalanced your own car with your ignorance. It happened because you drive too damn fast on public roads.
You "use the handbrake for cornering"? What kind of driving technique is that for the streets, or anywhere else for that matter? What are you doing "rally'ing or dorifito'ing" on the streets? Ridiculous. Don't blame ST sway bars for your foolish mistakes.
Any sway bar from any B13 should be able to be bolted onto another B13. Someone correct me if I am wrong, but all the aftermarket bars bolt to any B13, therefore the OEM bars should be interchangeable as well. That's logical, confirmation someone?
The damage to your car looks a helluva lot like the current damage to my car. Theres a thread under my name with eerily similar damage pics.
Bummer on your wreck, I would not have wished that upon you, no matter how foolishly you drive.
Finally, you really, really, need to read this thread:
You know so little about suspensions it is painful. Painful to read, and obviously painful for your car and pocket book. Educate yourself and you won't make such errors.
Glad you weren't injured and did not kill anybody else. Fix your car.
__________________
2004 Tahoe, stock and fully loaded.
'93 Classic - Repaired yet? No, currently being restored. Parts up to my eyeballs.
Seriously since I installed that sway bar I could not even use the hand brake for cornering because my rear tires slipped whenever they wanted to and I was literally scared to torch the hand brake with that ST sh*t on my rear axle.
Sorry about your accident...but you are about a DMF...
Hand brake cornering, yep, most definitely a must for those tight offramps...
L
Last edited by brokeser : 02-17-2007 at 10:13 AM.
Reason: I feel stupid for readin' this thread...
I realized that for hand-brake cornering you have to use OEM, soft setup because you have to be able to “swing” the car right before you use the hand brake. If you put a thick sway bar, you cant swing your rear end any more because if you start swinging one of your rear tires will go into air and you will basically complete a 180 degree turn.
I imagine the only situation someone will need a big rear sway is when driving on a mountain road with a lot of 100-180 degree closed turns...
I am simply telling you what I know from my personal experience...
I don’t care what you think because I tried a zillion different setups with coilovers and sway bars, but OEM rear and 1.2'' front drop gave me the most control during cornering on the real roads.
You should not try to convince me that I am wrong because this is what I experienced and am not going to modify my suspension solely based on your propaganda. I might try to modify something just for the sake of experiment, but I am not going to keep it if I don't like it.
I am simply telling you what I know from my personal experience...
I don’t care what you think because I tried a zillion different setups with coilovers and sway bars, but OEM rear and 1.2'' front drop gave me the most control during cornering on the real roads.
You should not try to convince me that I am wrong because this is what I experienced and am not going to modify my suspension solely based on your propaganda. I might try to modify something just for the sake of experiment, but I am not going to keep it if I don't like it.
im not gonna say i agree with you fully but i do agree with your last paragraph very true and understandable. accidents sucks.
__________________
^^ BUILT BY BOLT^^^
Nyc Home of the greatest !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by Nissanwulf : 02-17-2007 at 11:38 AM.
Sway bars are all the same between B13's. I installed a SE-R bar on the rear of my bro's 4 door.
BTW ST expects you to install both the F and R bars, so there is nothing wrong with their engineering. I'll leave it at that, as anything else I would say would not be in your favor.
I'm sorry I didn't copy everyone else's setup. If you need a preacher to tell you what mods to put on your car, the Reverend Veilside180sx might have a suggestion.
Denser than a black hole. Someone call Steven Hawkings.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FANTASY
I am simply telling you what I know from my personal experience...
I don’t care what you think
I tried a zillion different setups with coilovers and sway bars, but OEM rear and 1.2'' front drop gave me the most control during cornering on the real roads.
You should not try to convince me that I am wrong because this is what I experienced and am not going to modify my suspension solely based on your propaganda. I might try to modify something just for the sake of experiment, but I am not going to keep it if I don't like it.
You don't know squat.
A zillion set-ups? You tried a zillion set-ups because....you don't know squat.
You think that ridiculous suspension set-up of yours was good because...you don't know squat.
Propaganda?!? LOL. You think that we put information in the Technical Section to brain-wash you into stupid choices on your car? "It's all damn propagandist lies in a conspiracy to perpetuate bad suspensions." Everyone (in both your threads) is out to get you. We all plotted together to tell you misinformation just to lead you astray.
You just keep on "experimenting." Stay ignorant and only learn from your own incredibly stupid mistakes.
You can lead a jack-ass to water, but you cannot make him drink.
Good luck to you, you are certainly going to need it.
FANTASY - since adding all your suspension parts, did you happen to get an alignment?!?! Actually, what is your alignment set to...
______________________________________________
It's funny how most people on the forum have Progress swaybars (stiffer than the ST bar) on the rears of there car and have yet to see a thread like this. I've personally had a progress rear bar on my car for 5 years, never had this type of issue.... we'll I did, but it was related more to the excessive toe-out I ran up front for autoX.
I've driven se-r's with ST bars and they were on the understeer side of my car with the progress swaybar.
__________________
Monty <--- Another victim of the go-fast crack pipe....
First off, sorry about the accident, that sucks and I hope you get your car up and running quickly.
If I understand correctly, you are not running a front sway bar at all? From my understanding, increasing the size of the rear bar and doing no other mods will make your car more tail-happy. Which means you don't need the e-brake to get rotation. But, as Shawn said, you need to realize how your car will react with your new setup and drive accordingly. That rear bar should allow you to better control your car with the throttle in the corner, that is something I have found the rear progress bar allows me to do. I am also very careful about when/where I do that because I know that with my current setup if I overcook a corner and hit the brakes, my backend is coming out really fast, like it did when I had two C5's on my ass at the track and I promptly went farming in the infield. I haven't tried the ST rear bar, but I wonder how your car's balance would be if you kept the rear ST bar and put an SER front bar on? And read Shawn's thread: http://www.sr20forum.com/driveline-transmission/170794-b13-b14-b15-suspension-information.html
It really is that good.
__________________
Vitamin B13: Cures all that ails you. Dosage is 7500 rpm, repeat as necessary.
WE are a community
Neither the swaybar or the car has anything to do with this.
You were driving over your head on a public road and it bit you.
Take your bent car as a reality check and listen to these people, or you're going to do it again. Hopefully no one else will be in or around your car when it happens.
So why would anybody be handbraking a FWD car on the public roads.Drift King FTMFW
hey it can be done it can done! haha nah...but what shawn B & everyone else is saying is VERY true. just take everything in stride & get your car running man!
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by FarmBoss
seriously though, if she is talkative, "into it", happy and energetic during the dates, that means she wants cock. very simple.