Maybe this will help some of you out a little bit. I installed rear struts (KYB AGX ftw
) on my B13, and had to learn as I went, because I didn't even really know how to install one, but I had a good idea of how to. I simply took a look at it, and figured it out from there using common sense, and ended up actually doing a damn good job. I'll include some pictures. However, what I did could be considered a bit dangerous, because I used some ingenuity instead of a spring compressor tool. It is highly recommended that you do this with at least one other person. You will need a piston jack (commonly found in older SUV's), for the strut, and a jack of your choice (to jack the car itself).
Remove your back seat backing, by first pulling on the two small plastic rings, located on each side of the seat bottom itself, on the floor, and pulling up on the seat. It should lift freely. Then. lift up on the bottom of the seat back, until it slides free of the guides. The shock mounts should now be visible. Look on top. There should be a nut in the middle. That nut is holding the shock piston rod. You will need a special shock tool for this. There are a few variations, some that are socket wrench type, and others that require conventional wrenches. The nut will not move free from the rod if one of these tools is not used. Instead, the rod will simply turn with the nut. You will remove this in a later step.
Raise the back end of your car, using the metal lip under the rocker panel. Remove your tire. You will see two bolts holding the strut to the wheel assembly (I don't know the technical name, but I'm sure it's not the control arm), the swaybar, and the stabilizer bar.
Remove rear stabilizer bar bracket, located to your left. The bracket is held by two bolts. Remove them both.
(stabilizer bar mount bracket removed, on far left)
Remove retainer clip from the brakeline, holding it to the strut, by using a flathead screwdriver, bracing the side of the screwdriver against the strut, and the head just on the inside lip of the clip. If you have rear disk brakes, and are not wearing gloves, do not allow your hands or skin to contact rotor surface.
Remove sway bar, held by one locknut. Pull the bar down and out away from the strut, but leave it attached to stabilizer bar.
I used an oldschool piston jack (I think it's called) from my Cherokee (RIP Dec. '06), for this part, along with a pair of channel lock pliers. Place the pliers diagonally on top of the jack diagonally, in a way that the pliers do not contact the wheel assembly. raise the jack DIRECTLY SQUARE underneath the strut, until the pliers are touching it, then give half a turn, just enough to compress it very slightly.. The jack should be aligned straight up and down with the strut, and directly centered. This is VERY important, and the most dangerous part of removal.
Remove the two large 17mm bolts from the wheel assembly, using a wrench on one side and a socket wrench on the other, to hold the nut in place while turning the bolt. The disk/drum wheel assembly is now free. You MUST NOT bump the jack while doing this, as removing those bolts will allow the bottom of the strut to move about, if not held in place by the jack. At this point, there is considerable tension on the spring, held back by the jack, and rod nut, located inside the car.
Now you must remove the retainer nut for the end of the shock piston rod, using the tool described earlier for this.
(with strut removed)
Use a white grease pencil to make a mark indicating the top of the spring and position, facing directly outward. SLOWLY lower the jack under the strut until the spring is no longer under tension, then let the two fall away. If done right. the spring will simply fall with the strut, under no tension.
(my new KYB AGX)
Remove the rubber bushing that most likely popped out with the spring, and place it on your new strut, so that every part of the bottom end of the spring is in contact with it (you'll end up with rubbing or grinding otherwise). Have your partner hold the spring to the strut (strut rod should be in the middle of the spring, not offset), then match the top of the spring up with the rubber bushing located in the wheel well of the car. The top of the spring will be above the top of the strut rod. Lower the jack until it fits under the strut, making sure both handles of the pliers are underneath the strut, to distribute weight and prevent damage to strut. THE STRUT AND JACK _MUST_ BE DIRECTLY ALIGNED, DIRECTLY VERTICAL FOR THIS PART. Very very slowly raise the jack, paying very close attention for any binding of the spring. Have your parter guide the strut rod end through the shock mount hole at the top. Once the end is through the hole, have them check from the other side of the mount (top), to make sure it's coming through straight, then raise the jack until the rod does not rise any further through the mount.
Have your partner place the new washer and nut on the rod end until tight, using the shock nut tool. Once that is done, the spring now has some securement, and there is no risk of it flying out, but it can still move around, if not properly joined to the bushing. With the jack still raised, match up the wheel assembly mounting bracket with the holes, and push the bolts through, and start each nut (you do not have to fully tighten yet). Push the sway bar back up through the bracket on the strut, then add bushing, washer, and nut (start the threads, but do not fully tighten yet). Raise/lower jack as needed to match these bolts up, then reinstall stabilizer bar bracket, and tighten fully.
The jack can now be safely lowered, as everything is in place. The strut will travel downward a bit with the jack.
Tighten all nuts/bolts, and clip the brakeline to the bracket on the strut. Then put your tire back on, etc etc.
like i did....then it could turn into several hours at quickest 
