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B13 acts like it's in N all the time - what's the problem?
Driving my B13 the other day, came up to a light, shifted to N, stopped and waited for the light. Pushed in my clutch, shifted into first, started out...and nothing. Let out the clutch, felt fine, shifter def shifts the gears, but no go. Car won't move under its own power.
Shift through the gears, shifting feels fine, you can hear/feel linkage and even sounds like it's shifting gears inside the trans. SO, now I have a car that rolls, but not under its own power. Have to use the e-brake to keep it in place when parked. Clutch also feels like it did before - returns fine, pedal feel the same etc.
I have a Centerforce clutch which has been very strong and not showed any signs of slipping. So I was very surprised when I just went from clutch OK to nothing. I checked my cable and linkage, it moves like it should, and the shift linkage is tight. Car acts like it's in N all the time.
I'm wondering if the throw-out bearing or some piece of clutch "linkage" inside the trans may have broken. I find it really hard to believe the clutch is gone, it was in pretty good shape less than 10k ago. Shifting has been smooth, trans oil changed ~6 months ago, no problems at all. 137 miles on the trans, "fresh" JDM engine about 8k miles ago (about a year). Also new clutch cable at that time, checked that too.
I had to tow the car home, and before I tow it again to get it fixed, any guesses as to what's wrong with it besides the clutch possibly failing? If it did, that's the first one I've ever had that ever failed all at once w/o warning.
Any thoughts or suggestions welcome, I don't know anything about typical B13 trans issues, if there are any other than 5th gear pop-out (fixed long ago).
Will the transmission go into gear without pushing the clutch in, with the engine running?
Yes it will change gears (so far as I can tell, since it all acts like N).
I can move the shift lever all over the place and it acts just like it would when shifting, even though the engine is running and the clutch is out. No unusual noises, linkage is intact visually and sounds like it's doing its job.
My guess is you snapped an axle. Time to get the front end up in the air and start looking around.
C
If it snapped I think I has to be where I cannot see it, i.e. inside the case, both sides look intact.
Pass side axle was replaced recently with new, driver's side is probably OEM from '91 based on what I know. It would not surprise me if the driver's side axle snapped at the tip. I don't hear any mechanical difference at all when the clutch is out or in, btw.
I don't have any usual play when I grab the axles, how else can I check? I've heard of axles snapping off in the trans where the splines end on the inside end of the axle, at the point where transitions from spline to round stock.
Any suggestion on how I could tell? That would actually be relatively good news, since I don't want to pull the trans or replace the clutch yet, I want to hold off because I'm considering a VE swap. I'd hate to pull the trans for something that I'd do all over again not too distant future.
i have the same problem engine on n i can shift any gear go reverse n it feels like its n neutral my brother says its my throwout bearing or my clutch so now i have my new clutch ready to install any suggestion or things i need to know or get ready for incase when i open it i know what to expect if its not my clutch thats mess up
When my passenger side axle broke, I was able to drive the car a few blocks to my house, since some of the power was transferred to the driver side via the stock LSD, but I had to be extremely gentle with the gas pedal.
I'd be curious to see what happens if you put the car up in the air, and run it through the gears (engine running of course).
When my passenger side axle broke, I was able to drive the car a few blocks to my house, since some of the power was transferred to the driver side via the stock LSD, but I had to be extremely gentle with the gas pedal.
I'd be curious to see what happens if you put the car up in the air, and run it through the gears (engine running of course).
C
Thanks, I'll do that. Normally the wheels spin and click a bit.
Crappe. That pic is exactly what I had mind, only driver's side. Break right at the end of the splines. When I fracked up my pass axle I was able to nurse the car down to shop for replacement but it was obvious I had little power, about 2-3 months ago. I think you just confirmed with the stock LSD if the driver's side axle breaks in the same place or manner, you'll get NO power?
I don't know how it could break, all I was doing was quick-shifting at 7000 rpm through 1-2-3 a few minutes before it broke, and running weekly autox before that...go figure
If I pull the wheel and try to move the axle out/in then I expect a break like that is going to be obvious - slop.
I'd be curious to see what happens if you put the car up in the air, and run it through the gears (engine running of course).
C
Wheels do not turn with car in any gear and clutch out, engine running, car up in the air. Don't turn out of gear, either.
However if I turn the wheel by hand, on either side of the car, the wheel on the other side turns, too. Feels pretty solid, no play. At some point the LSD may have been upgraded in this car to a Quaife, not sure - but at 138k miles it most def has LSD action when driving it, so guessing that it's not OEM LSD as it would probably be shot by now.
It really acts like something just went in the clutch
I can see the linkage from the shifter and it all moves and looks, feels normal.
But weird enough, moving wheel outside by grabbing it and turning it, both sides turn.
Well, if it was an axle, then both wheels wouldn't turn when you move one. It's either a clutch related issue, or inside the transmission. I'm wondering if there is an issue with the TOB, keeping the clutch disengaged. Either way, the transmission is going to have to come off.
Thanks, that's actually a big help, since if the trans has to come off, a new clutch is going in. I didn't want to buy a new clutch, find out it was axle or linkage related then put it on the shelf with all my other new but uninstalled parts
I'll need a line on another trans in case the current trans is toast, but it's so smooth and positive I am starting to think TOB/Clutch, something died suddenly. Weird part is wth is the clutch disengaged vs. engaged?
It's been having the right parts in hand before I have the work done that's been keeping it parked, guess I'll get a new clutch and TOB kit, expect that's what's going on.
i hav the exact same problem just now got done fixing it it was my clutch the spring on the clutch disk all came out im guessing bounced around n hit my clutch disk pretty much exploded to many pieces my tob was kind of scratch not sure if the clutch fu*ked up the tob or the tob fu*ked up my clutch but now i know whats wrong with my car now got it running now hav pix but havinhg trouble posting it good luck with ***
ya know.. it kinda sounds like the input shaft that goes in the crank is snapped.. or maybe the t.o bearing.. good luck
Thanks. Kind of hoping not the input shaft. Picked up a JWT Clutch with B15 disc from Greg V (stage 2 kit), hopefully it's the pp, t.o. bearing, or clutch.
I saw it down at bishop motorsports I know kyle the owner there they will figure it out
Been really happy with their work. Kyle mounted up my G Coupe's 19's (275/35/19R, 245/35/19F) on my NISMO LMGT4's, very tight wheels - not a scratch, balance perfect.
He also suggested a zero toe rear alignment and few other good ideas. I'd highly recommend Bishop's, no doubt. Check out the before/after specs on their alignment. The car was aligned ~2 years earlier at the dealer...sure. They definitely have the nice Hunter equipment, car handles great now, rotates nicely, sharp turn-in.
B13's going to get the same treatment, no idea when it last saw and alignment, and it's seen some use
Now I can turn right AND left w/o having the car fight the steering.