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Picked up a 91 SE-R with bad engine. Water in engine == bad...
Got a JDM sr20de on order and should be in by end of week.
Now I am tossing around next few mods/addin's that might be good to do while placing motor in and am curious on input from others. Pricing and HP/Torque return will be a big factor as well as what is just really the best idea to put on NOW while I am ripping the whole thing apart to put the engine in...
Engine Mounts: Not sure if this is even really needed. Most likely keeping this a NA for DD. But if the Engine is out it seems like a good idea to replace mounts if it is a viable power mod.
Header: Looking at going the SSAC route unless comparable pricing is out there. What is odd is that I can find 2 items on Ebay about SSAC: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...=p4506.c0.m245 for $110.00 and http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...=p4506.c0.m245 for $124.99. Really weird because when you go to their website the pics used for both are the ones used for the only option on their website. Saw an interesting article on a side exhaust that I thought would be good with the new header install but need to read up more on the options for exhaust and what provides most power gain while not sounding like a Honda Civic with the exhaust hacked off.
Thermal Spacer: Is the Outlaw Thermal Spacer a good thing to throw in now or wait until later?
Cams: Prices of these are making me hold off but am interested. Seems like I can do a couple of other mods for the price of this single mod.
Air Intake: Not sure which is best for cost honestly. Did multiple searches and just get a bunch of for sale and look at my cool ride posts. Sounds like doing a JWT Pop Charger is highly recommended. Not sure if that is better or equivalent to a WAI or CAI or if it is considered part of a WAI.
Those are the key things I have been watching for on the used areas and ebay with a curious eye for clutch upgrades and etc... Really don't know how well the Manual Transmission is going to work yet. :-)
Side note, body mods seem few and far between except for the JDM and Tsuro stuff. Hell even CF or Fiberglass hoods seem pretty limited for the b13. Almost makes you want to buy another hood and try and make some custom air vents/inductors. I did see something on taking a q20 bumper, and if I had access to the JDM q20 with lip that would be worth a shot but otherwise is there really not other models out there that can be ripped apart to play with the body style?
Anyway. Suggestions? Links to actually pertinent previous discussions not 300 posts about buy my stuff. :-)
Put the thermal spacers in while the motor is out. It will be easier. I would get a new water pump and check out the power steering pump if you plan on running it. You can get cams later.
p.s. do the F/R mounts poly like Energy Suspension, but leave the sides stock, replace those with OEM. Coleman told me the NVH was too much with my car when he had all 4.
A lot of people think that the car (mine) is very harsh with the coilovers and the prothane mounts. However I drive my vehicle 5 minutes to work and back so it doesn't bother me except when the A/C is on. Although now that its fall I don't use it and a wire got broken when my belt slipped off. Honestly if you think it is too stiff don't bother but for a 1992 SE-R it will have it squeaks and rattles anyway
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1992 SE-R-At the point where listing mods is pointless as I can never remember them all
i would def change waterpump and while its out, it would'nt hurt to change the bearings. i wish i would have done that on my first b13, now that i see how easy it is
i would def change waterpump and while its out, it would'nt hurt to change the bearings. i wish i would have done that on my first b13, now that i see how easy it is
Hmm, didn't look for a pump or bearings. Is there a good one stop shop for the mounts, pump, and bearings? Or do I need to piece meal it?
If you just got the car then here are some things to start with
Keep the 14" se-r wheels or buy something lightweight. Heavy 17" wheels kill your acceleration.
If you are ok with a roughish ride put the prothane motor mounts on your car. Your transmission will thank you for it, and the car will feel much tighter.
Do not buy a short shifter! Take of the stock one and move the nylon ball up the shifter. Feels better then aftermarket and its free!
Buy a cheap header preferably in the style of the SSAC. Not the best but good bang for the buck. If you can have a cheap 2.5" exhaust rigged up to go with the header.
If your clutch is shot go ahead and buy a new one. You can get a replacement for $150, and if you don't know how to do it I'm sure someone on the forum would help you (same applies with any mods on your car)
Pop charger would also be a good idea. IMO I would not waste money on big expensive cold air intakes.
Obviously make sure the tune up items are in good shape (plugs wires fuel filter etc.) BTW OEM ignition parts work just fine.
That should be a pretty good start for you and not too expensive.
__________________ 92' Nissan Sentra SE-R - bluebird SR20det woot! VOTE RON PAUL OR DIE
I would do something with the firewall and radiator engine mounts (the torque set). This will keep your engine from flopping around and reduce/eliminate wheel hop. Either get new OEM mounts, or poly inserts. The former is more expensive, the latter will give a little vibration at idle.
Your header choice is good -- make sure to get one with 2.5" down pipe.
POP charger is a good choice also -- not much more ot be gained from a CAI, if anything.
Set your base timing to 19* BTDC and run high test (this is worth 5 to 7 WHP, depending on where your timing is now set).
Definitely keep your OEM wheels (17 lbs) or go lighter. This is a low-output rig and weight is your enemy.
Consider a lightened flywheel at some point -- maybe when you do the clutch. This is a great mod, but will cost $400 or more.
When you go with cams, plan on getting a 2.5" mandrel bent free flowing exhaust (the side exhaust is OK, if you like that style and sound). Without the exhaust, the cams' potential will not be realized through the mid-range and at the top end. I've had a car with S3s and it was great. But for my DD I've decided to stay with the stock cams and focus on weight reduction (flywheel, battery, etc.).
Don't forget to make sure your brakes are healthy -- no need to upgrade rotors and calipers unless you are going to go on the track. Just make sure that you have good pads, true rotors, and bleed the system with a good quality fluid.
Come back and search when it's time to think suspension.
Okay got the Pop charger and Energy Mounts on order.
Am still thinking about the SSAC Header but having a heck of time communicating with those guys. I guess they only talk to you via email and they only check their email once an evening and not on the weekends. Was trying to get clarification on the 2 headers they have on Ebay for the Sentra. Now I just want to know cost plus shipping. Still waiting...
If I get the header is the Outlaw spacer a good investment as well?
I do not know of any back to back testing of the Outlaw spacer except that done by the manufacturer. They do work in terms of lowering intake temp. Whether they make power I'm not sure and would like to see independent testing.
Okay got the Pop charger and Energy Mounts on order.
Am still thinking about the SSAC Header but having a heck of time communicating with those guys. I guess they only talk to you via email and they only check their email once an evening and not on the weekends. Was trying to get clarification on the 2 headers they have on Ebay for the Sentra. Now I just want to know cost plus shipping. Still waiting...
If I get the header is the Outlaw spacer a good investment as well?
So I guess I DON'T have the Pop Charger and Energy Mounts on order. And SSAC still hasn't replied back to me so I can order. Apperently the company I put my order through doesn't have either in stock and could be upto 2 weeks for the mounts. To top it off the engine should be here tomorrow. :-(
Need to find another vendor that might actually be stocking the Pop charger and Energy Mounts...
Look for a nice Hotshot header Im sure the SSAC is a good bang for your buck but its the cheesy chinese knock off ebay parts that killed off all the real innovative companys that use to make parts for our nice se-r's
You wont regret the ES Motor Mount inserts, There not even that rough alot smoother than the prothanes. 17 degrees timing wakes the car up alot too with stock cams.
Pop charger is nice also Hotshot / AEM / and the classic Place racing intakes are nice.
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Daryl G.
00 Jetta GLX VR6
02 Jetta 1.8t ( hers )
92 Sentra SE-R
98 Sentra SE ( RIP ) 14.2 NA
94 Sentra SE-R ( sold )
90 CRX SI w/GSR + bolt ons ( sold ) 12sec all motor
You don't need a pop charger. Just get a k&n filter and attach it to your maf and you'll be good to go. It has been proven on here by a dyno that you may gain 1hp with a pop over a plain jane filter, so don't stress about that.
Now for the mm's, just get some prothanes. They will have to be pressed and if your on a tight budget I found that the front one alone totally eliminated my wheelhop, so ........
Goodluck and definitely do the water pump because its easy and if it breaks while its in the car you'll be kicking yourself in the azz.
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Old set-up: 91 se-r sr20de+T 13.04@110mph w/ a t25 and s3's
New set-up: 91 se-r gti-r sr20det w/ a gt28r(Something MUCH bigger coming in FEB...),gti-r manifold, MSD 72lb inj., N62 maf, Turbo XS RBV-25 bov, Calum ecu(TUNED BY STEVE), Hallman pro rx mbc, Greddy tt, B&M ss, Greddy FMIC, AEM wideband, Autometer gauges, AGX's on Road magnets, etc.....And it Does run....barely