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I need some help I took my car to local tires store and they could not get my 17"/7" Rims with 205/40 Nitto tires to fit my Car. I have DTM Ris from Japan and NT555 Nitto tires. Someone told me to get a spacer but I'm not sure if that is safe. My car isn't lowered and has no suspension work done so everything is pretty much stock.
Well without some tweaking i dont think you can get them on there. but i put 16"s on mine this weekend and damn what a difference. The car was sooooo much slower. it just was like someone pulled a plug or something. soooo sluggish. the 14"s was like i put a 50 shot on it or something.
When you say correct off-set I say , must not be!! What are they hitting on the rear? strut? if so spacers will work I had 16x7 with 45mm offset fit perfect never scrub. I sure 17 would fit if you play with the offset . Plus you can get a kit to adjust camber on rear if you are hitting strut be it would affect tire waer if you went too far!!! More details plez.
there is no need to upgrade the wheels on the se-r's, they look good, do the best for performance, and cost nothing basically to buy. i am keeping mine, no need to fork out over 500 bucks on wheels and tires. just a waste. plus, adds the the "sleepiness" of the car.
I agree with you monsoon but I want the handling which comes with buying low profile and wider tires. Also some looks....I guess I'm gonna hold off putting my rims on until the spring time when its doesn't freeze thanks for the help....
yeah i know, looks are important. i like the bring out the "sleepiness" in my car though, how many people think a car with stock wheels on it anymore has anything under the hood to back it up? not many. then, WHABAM! another honda bites the dust.
I will be keeping my stock wheels for the same purpose as Monsoon, but when money alows I will be buying aftermarket wheels (Kosei K1's or Rota's) for track only.
Problem is diminishing returns. there is a point where you dont gain anything by going bigger. there is that trade off from small tire acceleration, to larger tire grip. thing is the ammount of difference in rummber on the ground between a 16" to a 17" is very small. the 14"s stock are way too small but going much larger than a 16 is going to the point where it slows your car down, ok if you want more looks i guess. but i put those 16"s on this weekend car felt sluggish as for cornering dont knwo they kept rubbing and i didnt want to destroy them since they werent mine. turn in felt a little sooner but couldnt really push it. personaly i would go with a 15x6 or so. i like the B14 rims alot. or go with a volk type of lightweight rim. its that you are turning about the same ammount of weight or so in a bigger circle which is harder. if you are goign for looks might as well try to stuff an 18" on there if you like that(i dont), but for performance a 15 atleast, 16 if they are really light
I too *** put on 17s on my 92 classic and they look good. Can't wait to slam it. But anyhow..yes a spacer is needed..and even with that it slightly rubs. Oh yea..if u plan on lowering your car, you will need to roll the fenders to avoid rubbing the inner fender. Peace
i have 17's on my 91 classic and they went on fine. size 205/40r/17 only one problem they scrape once in awhile in the rears. it's also dumped 2 inches so that might be adding to the problem of them scrapping. but they went on fine. and yes you need a spacer or else it will hit the springs and struts.
well i had 16"s on mine while going up to Ben's last month. and i will say even with the 16"s on stock suspension they rubbed in the back when i took turns even slightly quick. seemed like everytime i forgot i had them on there and turned into ben's neighborhood they would rub on the strut tower i think didnt look closely cause it was always dark. i know i didnt like have to remember that i had big rims and couldnt drive somewhat spirited. and for crying out loud they made the car slower than sh*t, and rode like hell. they had euro t/a's on them dont know what size but damn they were stiff on the highway and roared some. didnt like it at all.
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Thats my opinion and I could be wrong
i got 16"x7" lenso vpd's on my nx2000 and i have no problems whatsoever. i even have the car lowered 1.5". the fenders aren't rolled. it rides sh*tty, it is bumpy as hell, but i think that has something to do with the lowering springs. i'm not really sure about that, but i have no spacers and no problems. except getting the damn center cap to fir on the front wheels. the axle sticks out too far.
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1993 NX2000
custom blitz-based intake, no underhood emissions bs, $tillen short shifter with momo shift knob, -1.5" suspension techniques springs (which suck), kyb agx struts, suspension techniques f&r swaybars, $tillen front tower brace, $tillen front camber plates, white 16" lenso vpds, toyo proxies, full set of bushings, lotsa dents, one cracked windshield, 'missing' front foglights and spoiler, really bad paint job, primer grey front bumper and lower side panels, and one crazy bastard behind the wheel. (i think that is it..oh yeah-DET 'IN THE MAIL')
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1993 NX2000
custom blitz-based intake, no underhood emissions bs, $tillen short shifter with momo shift knob, -1.5" suspension techniques springs (which suck), kyb agx struts, suspension techniques f&r swaybars, $tillen front tower brace, $tillen front camber plates, white 16" lenso vpds, toyo proxies, full set of bushings, lotsa dents, one cracked windshield, 'missing' front foglights and spoiler, really bad paint job, primer grey front bumper and lower side panels, and one crazy bastard behind the wheel. (i think that is it..oh yeah-DET 'IN THE MAIL')
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98 se-r w/ p/r cai, stillen header, courtesy exhaust, JUN flywheel, ACT clutch, NOS nitrous kit, eibach springs, kyb struts, st sways, cusco camber plates, f/r strut braces, lotsa bushings, and a bunch of other crap not really worth mentioning
b14 my ass. there is no such thing as an nx2000 b14, so i don't want one. period. (actually i'd buy the hell out of a b14 if i could find a cheep one with a blown up engine)
thanks for the help....
