This write-up covers the disassembly of a B15 or P11 (2000-2001) manual transmission in order to install a Phantom Grip style friction type limited slip. The friction type limited slip greatly improves traction in front wheel drive vehicles and is quite affordable (usually ~$200). The part itself (pictured below) is a small assembly of two metal disc plates which hold tension on the differential side gears with the help of four small springs. In VLSD equipped transmissions, this complements and improves upon the viscous limited slip while in open diff equipped transmissions, this basically converts the diff to a limited slip. In cornering and braking, the friction type performs like a disc-type limited slip while in straight line acceleration, it acts as a locking diff (like posi-traction). The friction type limited slip can be purchased with different spring rates which correlate to different degrees of effectiveness (e.g. the "street" and "drag" versions). The street version has a lower spring rate and the drag version has a higher rate.
The transmission used in this write-up is a B15 with a viscous limited slip differential (locking diff), but the friction type limited slip can also be installed into the open differential (non-locking diff) and the process is virtually identical to the one described here save for some differences in the stock differential.
I would like to make mention of something first off. This install is not very difficult for people who are mechanically inclined and have had experience tearing apart transmissions and/or motors. If you have never taken apart a transmission before or are clueless as to how they work, I would not recommend doing this by yourself. You would be best off either doing this under the guidance of an experienced technician or having someone else do it for you. That being said, I'd like to start with a list of necessary tools for this install. If you do not have all of these tools, do not attempt to do this install. Here they are:
Tools Needed:
-Ratchet with metric socket set or metric wrenches (specifically 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm)
-Flat head screwdrivers
-Large phillips head screwdriver
-Ball-peen hammer
-Rubber mallet
-3/32" and 5/32" pin punches
-Telescoping or pen style magnet
-Standard snap ring pliers
-Lock ring pliers (You will need either the special transmission variety available through Matco tools, or a normal pair that you can grind down, I'll explain why later)
-Regular pliers (preferably two pairs)
-Impact wrench with 14mm socket
Begin by placing the transmission in a convenient work location like a work bench or some other out-of-the-way place where it will not be in the way of anything but can easily be worked on. There are a few things during this install that may force the process to go a lot longer than planned, so decide on your work location accordingly. Before placing the transmission on its bell housing, grab a shirt, towel, rag, or something else to lay the axle seal on. This will help prevent the seal from getting torn up while you work on the transmission. In the picture below, I have a folded shirt, and as a matter of fact, it happens to be an MC Hammer "Please Hammer Don't Hurt 'Em World Tour" shirt but any old shirt will do.
Once the tranny is on its bellhousing, the first order of business is to remove the five 10mm bolts to the main shaft rear bearing cover pictured below. After removing the bolts and cover, group them together in a convenient location so as not to lose anything.
Next, remove the six 10mm bolts and the reverse idler gear cover pictured below. This is the only instance where you come across an actual gasket, so be careful not to damage it and it can be re-used. Again, group the cover and bolts together off to the side so as not to lose anything.
Next we will remove the reverse idler gear. Begin by removing the retaining shaft's snap ring which is pictured below. Then thread one of the idler gear cover bolts into the threaded hole in the top of the shaft. Simply pull the retaining shaft out of the case by the threaded bolt.
After that, the reverse idler gear comes right out of the case. Take note of the orientation of the gear because it is not straight cut like typical reverse gears. Be careful when pulling it out, there are some loose pieces that can easily fall out (two thrust washers as well as a bearing). Set the gear aside with its loose parts so as not to lose anything.
Next, remove the lock ring from the main shaft rear bearing with a pair of standard snap ring pliers. Place it with the cover that was removed earlier.
Next, remove the two 14mm check plugs pictured below. Inside each sleeve will be a small spring as well as a check ball. Remove these parts with either a telescoping or pen style magnet and set them aside where they will not be lost!
Next, remove the 12mm bolts holding the case and bell housing together. Group them to the side somewhere so as not to lose any.
You are now ready to remove the case!
Once all the bolts are removed, you must carefully separate the case from the bell housing. I started by placing the handle end of a rubber mallet on the bottom side of the protruding part of the case pictured below, and then I tapped it with a ball-peen hammer until there was ample room to get a flat head screwdriver in between the bell housing and the case. At that point, I worked my way around until they were sufficiently separated. Once free, the case just lifts straight off with no adjustment necessary (if you've ever taken apart a B13/B14 tranny, this will seem weird because of the way that you have to work the case off of those).
The picture below is what your transmission will look like without the case on it.
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Sorry to get off subject, just thought it would be cool!
