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These Ingalls rear parallel (radius) arms allow rear camber adjustment on the B13. They're also tubular and much stronger than the stock sheetmetal arms.
This is a great thread. Thank you for especially for the info. on ES bushing bind on the trailing arms. I hadn't seen those threads, and this likely explains some of the harshness I'm feeling after installing the whole ES kit in the rear.
Done, inserted into the body of the text and Glossary. Plus I quoted you, I wouldn't know a radius arm if you hit me in the head with it. Gracias!
You're welcome. However, I did not actually provide any information on the ES bind. I just put the information in a spot you could find it.
Thanks for the addition. You rock.
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2004 Tahoe, stock and fully loaded.
'93 Classic - R.I.P. 2007 My mechanical companion. Operation Resuscitation underway....
I just saw this Shawn..i dont come here much to this part since my car is gone. Good job..looks like alot of research went into this. I was going to do all es bushings on my honda and the same thing..trailing arm binds up. Did you end up changing any bushings on the rear?
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91 SE-R. R.I.P old freind
91 part 2
"Dream as if you live forever, live as if you die today." -James Dean
And, I don't mind at all being looked down upon by purists. Indeed I don't mind at all being looked down upon by those whom I do not look up to at all. -
BTW if you dont mind Shawn im a mod on Serbans site in the tech section. You dont mind if i post this link over there do you?
I'd be honored. Folks using the hell out of this resource would make me happy. That's why I built it.
It has taken a ton of reSearch over the last couple of weeks. Further, it's not done just yet. I'm not adding any more sections, but I will fill out and finish what I have. Need some more facts and figures here and there, etc.... I'll also update it with any new relevant information as it comes along.
No one has said anything about the Sport Compact Car quotes. No, those are not off of any website. I own all those issues, and just typed in the information directly out of the magazines. At some point fairly soon, I am going to scan in each SCC article in its entirety and somehow link them to this thread. That way folks can actually read the whole articles and see the pictures.
Did you know that the very first suspension on Project SE-R was Tokico struts and springs, ST sway bars, and 16" rims? It sucked but that was all they had off-the-shelf back in them thar ancient days. Look at all the kick-ass options we have now.
I ended up keeping all my bushings OEM. No ES bushings anywhere except a shifter bushing in my tranny. It's my daily driver, no need for the extra expense and PITA factor. I'm not on a road course, I don't even auto-cross, ES bushings would be suspension overkill.
Here are two pics of the hot bits DT coils if you want to add these too Just save them and relink them , I change up the files on my ftp site once and awhile.
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279 hp @ 17psi
Nx 2000 : It sticks to the road like bubble gum to hot asphalt
Thanks. I want to auto-x so i have not decided what route i want to take. I have the scc issues as well. I remember that sups setup. They had black racing phantoms on the car way back when. I liked them alot. Wish you could still get these. When i do pick up a clean se-r i am going to restore it like i was doing with my other one. I will use the honda for a track only car. There are tons of them on the road still but not many R so i dont mind tearing it up. lol
Did you do any research into heim joints Shawn? I was intersted to see if anybody has switched to this setup. Probaly only the race guys but i would love to see it on the classic.
Did you do any research into heim joints Shawn? I was intersted to see if anybody has switched to this setup. Probaly only the race guys but i would love to see it on the classic.
Nope. I know they have them on the ends of Progress sway bars, that's about it.
Please Clarify the following for me, keep in mind that my ignorance knows no bounds:
a) Are you talking about utilizing heim joints on all the suspension parts? Which specific parts does your question apply to?
b) Everything going together with metal on metal?
c) Do you think they do this in...say....the SE-R cup, rallying, or something? Ie...what Motorsport does that type of thing?
This may be a "race only" interest, but I'll do a search or ten. Many of the applications covered (high dollar coilovers, rear camber kits, cages, etc...) in this thread only apply to real serious racing-types.
Awaiting your response before adding to the "to do" list.
About the harness bar section. You shouldnt be using a harness without a roll bar and really a proper race seat too. If you are in a rollover without a roll bar and the roof caves in, your sol.
Road magnet springs: I think the fronts are probably to low.
About AGX's: They are a decent strut, but the cost for some shortened koni's is not much more. Just save up a little longer and get them instead. I wish I had.
JGY LSD: I don't think its a VLSD. I'm pretty sure its the same type of design as the phantom grip.
Road magnet springs: I think the fronts are probably to low.
Are you basing that thought by the initial high sidewall tyred pics or first hand visual. Some cats would take a "I think" as a true statement. And you sir being a part of the SBI, some would see it as gospel.....
Let's hear the reports first before passing judgement. The cat that made this happen put his money up front and deserve a chance to see if this is actually a good arternative to the hard to get Hyperco's.
Yes I am defensive on this subject due to the bold sentence....
Are you basing that thought by the initial high sidewall tyred pics or first hand visual. Some cats would take a "I think" as a true statement. And you sir being a part of the SBI, some would see it as gospel.....
Let's hear the reports first before passing judgement. The cat that made this happen put his money up front and deserve a chance to see if this is actually a good arternative to the hard to get Hyperco's.
Yes I am defensive on this subject due to the bold sentence....
L
I base it on niether of those. How low the car *looks* means nothing. I base my opinion on the fact that they lower the front of the car 1.5 inches. It would be nice if someone tested them to see if they bottom out (put a zip tie around the shaft of the strut at the bottom. Take the car out on an autocross course or something like that. Afterwords, see how far up the shaft the zip tie is. If its pushed all the way into the bumpstop, your bottoming out.).
I base it on niether of those. How low the car *looks* means nothing. I base my opinion on the fact that they lower the front of the car 1.5 inches. It would be nice if someone tested them to see if they bottom out (put a zip tie around the shaft of the strut at the bottom. Take the car out on an autocross course or something like that. Afterwords, see how far up the shaft the zip tie is. If its pushed all the way into the bumpstop, your bottoming out.).
This is a great idea. I'll do it. The front spring is low but rememer its a 325 spring, and so far mine rides dope (note the bold). Unfortunately auto-x season is over. I got ways and means and would never lie to you guys.
BTW the hotbits rig looks like teh sects incarnate.
There he goes one of gods own prototypes. A high powered mutant of some kind not even considered for mass production. Too weird to live and too rare to die
I base it on niether of those. How low the car *looks* means nothing. I base my opinion on the fact that they lower the front of the car 1.5 inches. It would be nice if someone tested them to see if they bottom out (put a zip tie around the shaft of the strut at the bottom. Take the car out on an autocross course or something like that. Afterwords, see how far up the shaft the zip tie is. If its pushed all the way into the bumpstop, your bottoming out.).
I base it on niether of those. How low the car *looks* means nothing. I base my opinion on the fact that they lower the front of the car 1.5 inches. It would be nice if someone tested them to see if they bottom out (put a zip tie around the shaft of the strut at the bottom. Take the car out on an autocross course or something like that. Afterwords, see how far up the shaft the zip tie is. If its pushed all the way into the bumpstop, your bottoming out.).
Don't Hypercos lower the car between 1" and 1.5" as well?
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who the fu*k just sits there and highlights text at random?
Last edited by robchaos19 : 10-05-2006 at 11:04 PM.
