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Give Shawn B time he'll get there. He's on a role. Much props to the enforcer slash discjockey slash liberian. The info he has gathered has help me alot. Now if he could mix drinks and make deliveries?
A brilliant thread, but most of the info pertains to the B13. Although a lot of that info can be carried over to the B14 I assume...
Thanks.
I just updated my...editorial comment in the first post at the beginning of the thread. I will change this thread to include the B14 and B15 chassis. Give me a few weeks, it will be done.
Damn rear-beam something or other.....
I am so clueless.
Quote:
Originally Posted by brokeser
Give Shawn B time he'll get there. He's on a role. Much props to the enforcer slash discjockey slash liberian. The info he has gathered has help me alot. Now if he could mix drinks and make deliveries?
L
Thanks Luis. You are correct, I am on a roll with this thread. See statement above, I'll incorporate the B14/15 folks.
I used to bartend, and could make lightning fast deliveries in my SE-ARRRRRR.
__________________
2004 Tahoe, stock and fully loaded.
'93 Classic - R.I.P. 2007 My mechanical companion. Operation Resuscitation underway....
I came across this thread from a link from another thread, so I never saw the title, plus I was just thinking out loud.
However you got here, you got here.
And your thoughts are the thoughts of 98sr20ve, and a few other folks as well. Most of this is pertinent to all three chassis, B13/14/15. Therefore incorporate all three into one thread.
You guys suck for suggesting such a thing.... .................
It's gonna take me a while, but you guys are right. Therefore, I'm working on it.
What is the differences between the three chassis codes?
The B13 suspension is comprised of an independent McPherson strut suspension in both the front and rear.
The B14 and B15 suspension is comprised of an independent McPherson strut suspension in the front, and an....XXXX...... in the rear. (damn am I clueless...LOL)
Koni's use XXXXXXX type of damping. Which is superior for XXXX reason. Because of this XXXXXX damping, you will have a smoother ride than with the stock OEM strut, or the AGX's.
Ballpark price DIY: XXXX
Alright, I'll take you up on that offer. I seem to quote your ass constantly anyways. You'd be stunned how many times I have Advanced Searched your name.
Can you fill out this sections above? You can quote back to this thread with a post, or with your Super Moderator powers, you could just edit the thread in the body of the text. That will NOT hurt my feeling whatsoever. Whichever way is easier for you.
On the suspension differences, I know the B14 has an rear beam vs. a B13 IRS. I am clueless about the B15. I would probably end up searching out an answer from you anyways.
On the Koni type of damping, I know I read somewhere that is a different superior type of damping, I just cannot find where I read it.
I can go through the entire rest of the thread and "update" just by clicking the link, then finding out if the products are for B13, B14, or B15. Tedious and time-consuming but no problem.
Steve, pretty much anything you wanted to add, correct, or change would be fine with me.
My latest stuff is based on experiances gained working with Motorsports and Nismo suspension engineer, Jeff Lesher who is a hell of a guy.
He taught me about frequency matching of the front and rear suspensions, basicaly the rear suspension needs to have a higher natural frequency than the front so bobing and other chassis exciting, traction reducing effects of bumps and undulations can be reduced. You tune so they will cancel out in 1/2 cycle.
Basicaly in a close to 1:1 motion ratio suspension like ours, this means the rear spring rates must be higher than the fronts. I am starting to do this based on his equations, using roll bars to make up the gradient in roll stiffness that this causes.
The results I have experianced so far are pretty interesting, bobing can be greatly reduced without needing more damping and the tires are getting shocked less with less bobbing and less damping. It seems to work well.
Also a big trend in the motorsports world is to adjust dampers so when you intergrate piston velocity over time the curve has an equal distribution for attack and decay. Need LDPT's to do that which are expensive but I do have the dfata loggers now.
So lately my spring rate recomendations are way different from the status qou. I will have more experiance with this so and will be changing some of the good old standard rule of thumb spring rates soon.
The OEM's are catching on with this lately. Wonder why the Spec V, Maxima, Altima and some other makes of car have such a high rear wheel rate?
He taught me about frequency matching of the front and rear suspensions, basicaly the rear suspension needs to have a higher natural frequency than the front so bobing and other chassis exciting, traction reducing effects of bumps and undulations can be reduced. You tune so they will cancel out in 1/2 cycle.
Basicaly in a close to 1:1 motion ratio suspension like ours, this means the rear spring rates must be higher than the fronts. I am starting to do this based on his equations, using roll bars to make up the gradient in roll stiffness that this causes.
So lately my spring rate recomendations are way different from the status qou. I will have more experiance with this so and will be changing some of the good old standard rule of thumb spring rates soon.
Mike
Very interesting Mike.
That definitely goes against the collective wisdom, partially created by you, of the forum on suspensions. Hyperco being 300 front, 200 rear.
Please keep us posted. I'll incorporate as necessary into the text of the thread.
I'm assuming this new revelation on suspension frequency and higher rear and softer front spring rates factors in the body natural flex and tolerance? Does bracing all the weak points help change the suspension frequency?
On the Koni type of damping, I know I read somewhere that is a different superior type of damping, I just cannot find where I read it.
You can't articulate why the Koni is better then another damper or why another damper may be better then a Koni in such a simple fashion. People like to simplfy things and say "well it's double adjustable" or some other objective thing. In the end the damper that keeps the tires on the ground and most effectively maintains traction is the best damper for handling. The most common Koni's we use on our cars hit a perfect middle ground between performance and cost. Especially the Spec V and Maxima units. Problem with the Koni is they are not off the shelf easy to do. They require extra steps. This does not begin to adress the need for shortened units needed so badly on the fronts of a Sentra. But even this is a over simplification for a street car as many coilovers are actually to short and don't have enough shaft travel to work properly on a street car.
All of this info is going to save my car's life, literally. I have 143,400 miles on bone stock components, and they are beyond shot. My car's suspension noise can easily drown out both the engine and stereo system! I just landed a good job, and after 3 years of waiting, my B14 is going to become the dream SE-R I've always wanted. The entire car is going to be stripped down to nothing more that an empty steel shell, repainted inside and out, and then fully restored to my own liking...
Seeing as how the suspension systems on these vehicles are so difficult to set up correctly, the information I will gather from you guys will be vital to building my new car. In the next month or so, I'll start putting together a list of what parts I'm going to want/need, and just want to thank you all in advance for the help.
I'm assuming this new revelation on suspension frequency and higher rear and softer front spring rates factors in the body natural flex and tolerance? Does bracing all the weak points help change the suspension frequency?
L
Its too hard to model with the math tools I have but its better than nothing.
Now if he could mix drinks and make deliveries? 
.................
