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sweet geez, shawn there is ALOT of info here , kinda over whelming to read it all...but its hella good ..yay for ramen noodles 0.24$ per-meal..CSK here I come!
thanks steve
thanks shawn
I'll keep updates
__________________
1992 SE-R awaiting my SR20VE I/E/H/ AND VVL 1.6 TRANNY (again)
What about Vogtland springs, I read a good reviews of this in a maxima forum.
Anyone knows the spring rate.
Thanks for the heads-up. However, the spring rate is pretty much a non-issue.
For the B13, B14, and B15, Vogtland springs drop the car 1.6 inches. Leaving you with 1.4 inches of travel. That is not going work well with any struts, including CSK's.
I will make a phone calls next week to Voghtland in Germany. Sprecken zie English? I bet they won't divulge the spring rate, further I will bet it is too damn soft. I would guess they have NEVER tested those springs in actual working conditions. I will go so far as to assert that they have no idea what the stock travel is on our vehicles.
I'm a bit skeptical, perhaps becoming cynical, after calling all those "Other Spring" manufacturers as listed in this thread. They are all pretty much universally clueless.
However, I will add Vogtland springs to the list of "Other Springs." With a recommendation of "struts to use" as "No struts will work well with these springs."
__________________
2004 Tahoe, stock and fully loaded.
'93 Classic - Original Owner, "OEM Plus" modifications
Thanks for the heads-up. However, the spring rate is pretty much a non-issue.
For the B13, B14, and B15, Vogtland springs drop the car 1.6 inches. Leaving you with 1.4 inches of travel. That is not going work well with any struts, including CSK's.
I will make a phone calls next week to Voghtland in Germany. Sprecken zie English? I bet they won't divulge the spring rate, further I will bet it is too damn soft. I would guess they have NEVER tested those springs in actual working conditions. I will go so far as to assert that they have no idea what the stock travel is on our vehicles.
I'm a bit skeptical, perhaps becoming cynical, after calling all those "Other Spring" manufacturers as listed in this thread. They are all pretty much universally clueless.
However, I will add Vogtland springs to the list of "Other Springs." With a recommendation of "struts to use" as "No struts will work well with these springs."
sorry for delays, I will have b14 OEM suspension components part numbers and descriptions as well as prices by the end of the week, my mechanic has been out of town....
WHICH ALSO MEANS I HAVEN'T PUT MY RMS AND AGX'S IN!!! AHHGGG!!!
__________________ ~KEVIN New whip... 2000 BMW 540i Sport 6 Speed Black on Tan
Thanks for the heads-up. However, the spring rate is pretty much a non-issue.
For the B13, B14, and B15, Vogtland springs drop the car 1.6 inches. Leaving you with 1.4 inches of travel. That is not going work well with any struts, including CSK's.
I will make a phone calls next week to Voghtland in Germany. Sprecken zie English? I bet they won't divulge the spring rate, further I will bet it is too damn soft. I would guess they have NEVER tested those springs in actual working conditions. I will go so far as to assert that they have no idea what the stock travel is on our vehicles.
I'm a bit skeptical, perhaps becoming cynical, after calling all those "Other Spring" manufacturers as listed in this thread. They are all pretty much universally clueless.
However, I will add Vogtland springs to the list of "Other Springs." With a recommendation of "struts to use" as "No struts will work well with these springs."
You are right, I write an email to vogtland and a seller in Ebay, no one asnwer my questions not even if the springs are progressive
Hey my name is Eddie and Im thinking about making my own set of Cks this winter for my b13 for next spring. I have been doing alot of reading and just about got this thing figured out. Except for a few details...
1) I plan on running GC coilovers but I am not certain on a spring rate, I want something good for auto x but at the same time that wont be so rough on the road. any good recommendations?
2) what would be a good setup for inserts, Im not to worried about a progess swaybar just yet but would deff be a future mod.
3) should I have more of a droprate in front because of the motor weight? and if so what are your recommendation on droprates for front and rear.
Not sure if this info will help but I plan on using stock b14 wheels as well as 15x7 slipstreams..
Once again thanks for all your help...
__________________
1989 Nissan 240sx Coupe Sr20det-powerd - Sold
1992 Nissan Classic SE-R - Crashed and sold
1995 Nissan Pathfinder XE - Sold
Searching for new ride...
They say in the future cars will fly, I cant wait.....
more roads for me!!!
1) I plan on running GC coilovers but I am not certain on a spring rate, I want something good for auto x but at the same time that wont be so rough on the road. any good recommendations?
I like 300-350 front rates with a difference of 50 less towards the rear.
Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieR
2) what would be a good setup for inserts, Im not to worried about a progess swaybar just yet but would deff be a future mod.
Easiest way to get the B14 fronts (red insert) into the back of a B13 and not have to worry about sway bar clearance is to cut some of the tube that protrudes below the hub off and weld on a nice flat piece. Basically make the rears like the fronts in the back as far as having none of the tube sticking below the hub. Measure the overall length of the unit above the hub and then the B14 Koni front and make sure you shorten it one inch. You could also use a Yellow B15 front in the same rear application with the same simple mod. Just make sure when its done you have it shortened 1 inch. This is only for you GC guys. No lowering springs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieR
3) should I have more of a droprate in front because of the motor weight? and if so what are your recommendation on droprates for front and rear.
I really don't know what you mean with this question.
I like 300-350 front rates with a difference of 50 less towards the rear.
Easiest way to get the B14 fronts (red insert) into the back of a B13 and not have to worry about sway bar clearance is to cut some of the tube that protrudes below the hub off and weld on a nice flat piece. Basically make the rears like the fronts in the back as far as having none of the tube sticking below the hub. Measure the overall length of the unit above the hub and then the B14 Koni front and make sure you shorten it one inch. You could also use a Yellow B15 front in the same rear application with the same simple mod. Just make sure when its done you have it shortened 1 inch. This is only for you GC guys. No lowering springs.
I really don't know what you mean with this question.
for the second one, are there some pictures out there that can help explain this.. (sorry I was one of those kids that needs books with pictures.. lol) mabey a picture that some can show me what it is that i need to do..
or can i just install a progess swaybar and avoid that extra work? thx
for the third one I ment to say should I have a even drop all the way around like say 1" or should the front have more of a drop because of the more weight up front..
I will work on something to post on how to do the rears. Or if anyone is about to do a car I can walk them thru it over the phone and they can post actual pictures and measurements. It's easy but I don't have the cores here to measure and show how to do it.
I will work on something to post on how to do the rears. Or if anyone is about to do a car I can walk them thru it over the phone and they can post actual pictures and measurements. It's easy but I don't have the cores here to measure and show how to do it.
sounds good Im not planning to start this till winter so I have time.. thx
Just a little heads up on the TEIN gear, they now released the new MONO FLEX suspension to the range for the JN15 which is essentially the B14 chassis. Obviously a lot harder to get that stuff in the USA, but reports are they're comfortable, and very streetable.
Also see here for some internal pics of a Nismo 1.5way LSD from my car that has done over 20,000 road miles (daily driving) and a fair amount of track work. Other than the chalky substance blocking the fluid pathways on the plates, there is next to ZERO wear on the plates.
LSD is working as good as ever and to put to rest the fears of clunking etc, if you use the RIGHT OIL they don't groan, clunk or knock. My diff clunked and was generally a bugger to drive with Shockproof heavy in the gearbox, i switch to Motul Type2 FF LSD and it was smooth as, but would still lockup if you put your foot down, i have now moved onto NEO Platinum HD oil as my car is used for track work.
Thanks to Gerard at GCCorp for taking the time to snap some pics while it was all apart. While it was apart the preload was increased as well as the car its fitted to is used only for track work. Offsets/results to this were: heavier steering, faster return to centre on the steering and much lower torque (load) required to lockup the LSD, but even with increased preload running the NEO Platinum oil, there is NO grinding, clunking or knocking at slow speeds unless you pull it to lock and take off quickly where the diff will lockup and the inside wheel will chatter (sounds hot. haha).
Also see here for some internal pics of a Nismo 1.5way LSD from my car that has done over 20,000 road miles (daily driving) and a fair amount of track work. Other than the chalky substance blocking the fluid pathways on the plates, there is next to ZERO wear on the plates.
Good to know... where is the link, I'd like to see the pictures.
Quote:
LSD is working as good as ever and to put to rest the fears of clunking etc, if you use the RIGHT OIL they don't groan, clunk or knock. My diff clunked and was generally a bugger to drive with Shockproof heavy in the gearbox, i switch to Motul Type2 FF LSD and it was smooth as, but would still lockup if you put your foot down, i have no moved onto NEO Platinum HD oil as my car is used for track work. (link will be added later as PGA is down at the moment)
I used shockproof heavyweight, and I know others here have also, without any clunking from the LSD. I put two years of track usage, both years with hoosier tires, and the LSD never lost any of its locking ability over those two years...
__________________
Monty <--- Another victim of the go-fast crack pipe....
Just a little heads up on the TEIN gear, they now released the new MONO FLEX suspension to the range for the JN15 which is essentially the B14 chassis. Obviously a lot harder to get that stuff in the USA, but reports are they're comfortable, and very streetable.
Thanks for the heads-up.
I'll look that up and include it in the body of the thread.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoZZm0
Also see here for some internal pics of a Nismo 1.5way LSD from my car that has done over 20,000 road miles (daily driving) and a fair amount of track work. Other than the chalky substance blocking the fluid pathways on the plates, there is next to ZERO wear on the plates.
LSD is working as good as ever and to put to rest the fears of clunking etc, if you use the RIGHT OIL they don't groan, clunk or knock. My diff clunked and was generally a bugger to drive with Shockproof heavy in the gearbox, i switch to Motul Type2 FF LSD and it was smooth as, but would still lockup if you put your foot down, i have no moved onto NEO Platinum HD oil as my car is used for track work. (link will be added later as PGA is down at the moment)
Bring on the pics. I can add them to the LSD section.
Geezus, 17,000+ views!
I never dreamed this thread would get that much veiwing. Seriously, it blows my mind.
And....I never imagined it would be an ongoing, never-ending, update process. It just keeps on growing. Hell, I have a constant waiting-list of updates, I'm usually about four (4) updates behind. .......
Good to know... where is the link, I'd like to see the pictures.
I used shockproof heavyweight, and I know others here have also, without any clunking from the LSD. I put two years of track usage, both years with hoosier tires, and the LSD never lost any of its locking ability over those two years...
Link added to my post above.
With the shockproof, did you have to add any friction modifier? If friction modifier was added to the gearbox oil, the clunking disappeared, and my experience was not an isolated one. Perhaps the redline we got in Australia was a slightly different mix or something to what was available in the USA, interesting?
I'll look that up and include it in the body of the thread.
Bring on the pics. I can add them to the LSD section.
Geezus, 17,000+ views!
I never dreamed this thread would get that much veiwing. Seriously, it blows my mind.
And....I never imagined it would be an ongoing, never-ending, update process. It just keeps on growing. Hell, I have a constant waiting-list of updates, I'm usually about four (4) updates behind. .......
It probaly has something to do with i stickyed the link in some other forums..lol. Do we have any car shots of the RM on a b13?
__________________
91 SE-R. R.I.P old freind
91 part 2
"Dream as if you live forever, live as if you die today." -James Dean
And, I don't mind at all being looked down upon by purists. Indeed I don't mind at all being looked down upon by those whom I do not look up to at all. -
Look who finally shows up... ME! Also with the help of Mr. HellFire Here are some Part numbers with what the part is....
These part numbers are good for the B14U platform 1995-1999 200sx and Sentra SER / SEL
Should be easy to read if you have a factory service manual, I went from top to bottom with the part numbers. Hope this helps anyone who needs a thrust bearing or strut mount!
Info I have gathered
Rear Suspension
56204 - Shock absorber cap
08912-3401A - Nut for top of strut ( usually come with purchase of aftermarket strut )
56113X - Washer
56217 - Bushing
55080B - Nut for mounting strut to car chassis TOP
55338 - Shock absorber mounting seal
55322 - Shock absorber mounting bracket
55034 - Upper spring seat rubber
5621B - Bushing
55248N - Bound bumper cover
55240 - Bound bumper (aka strut boot)
56226M - Bolt that goes through bottom of strut and to Hub / Torsion Beam BOTTOM
55080BA - Nut that goes to above meantioned bolt ( 56226m )
For those who want a factory Nissan spring :55020M
For those who want a factory Nissan strut : n/a
Complete rear assembly : 56210K
Front Suspension
54080BA - Nut for top of strut ( usually come with purchase of aftermarket strut )
54080BB - Nut for mounting strut to car chassis TOP
54329N - Spacer
54320 - Strut mounting insulator
54322 - Strut mounting insulator bracket
54329 - Thrust bearing ( will be metal ) ( note: part number 54325 is for the GA16DE this will be plastic )
54040 - Upper spring seat
54034 - Upper spring rubber seat
54052M - Bumper rubber (aka strut boot)
54035 - Lower spring rubber seat
40056X - Bolt that goes through bottom of strut and steering knuckle BOTTOM
54080B - Nut that goes to above meantioned bolt ( 40056X )
For those who want a factory Nissan spring: 54010M
Complete front assembly : (RH) 54302K
Complete front assembly : (LH) 54303K
This is what HellFire has been able to get for me from Courtesy ....
55338] SEAL-SHOCK ABSORBER MOUNTING - Sentra / 200SX (B14U) 1995-1999
Out of stock $1.78
[55322] BRACKET ASSY-SHOCK ABSORBER MOUNTING - Sentra / 200SX (B14U) 1995-1999
Out of stock $10.92
[55034] SEAT-RUBBER,REAR SPRING UPPER - Sentra / 200SX (B14U) 1995-1999
Out of stock $20.16
[56218] BUSH-REAR SHOCK ABSORBER - Sentra / 200SX (B14U) 1995-1999
Out of stock $5.84
[55248N] COVER-BOUND BUMPER,REAR - Sentra / 200SX (B14U) 1995-1999
Out of stock $3.60
[56226M] PIN-REAR SHOCK ABSORBER,LOWER - Sentra / 200SX (B14U) 1995-1997 1.6L & 2.0L
Out of stock $4.12
[55080BA] NUT - Sentra / 200SX (B14U) 1995-1999
Out of stock $5.80
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..yay for ramen noodles 0.24$ per-meal..CSK here I come!
.......
