Stackdaddy

Hey Black-S.... sounds like a good question.... but from what I understand, one of the major benefits from going to the B15/P11 is that you get a much stronger case ..... right from the factory as they have already put 'weld-like' reinforcement into it (you can actually see the difference).... so it does not appear to be something that's needed..... I have yet to hear of someone breaking/cracking a case on one of these.... Thanx

 

coalitionSE-L

^^Plus a good suspension and stiff motor mounts will help eliminate case cracking wheel hop.

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1999 SE-L SR20DET-- Sold!
1997 Maxima-- The bone-stock family machine!
2004 Xterra-- The wife's ride!

Black Stallion

Thanks guys, coalition what's up with your avatar lol

NX$paniard

I filled mine with JB weld. i dont think its worth welding cause its got a huge chunk of aluminum by the striker rod that fixes the problem the old se-r trans had. I just had my gears cryoed and rebuilt the trans as well as installing a phantom grip. I hope to never change my tranny out EVER!!!...

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~jRod

coalitionSE-L

Well, you should be set!

NX$paniard

if im not then then there is no solution!!! no hope 4 high power sr20's

glcasmith

I have the same shifter problem. I switched yoke's and turned the B14 yoke 180, and with a little grinding to the yoke, it fit. But, the shifter was moved back at such an angle I couldn't shift into 2,4, or R.

How did you guys that did this make it work?

I'm probably going to switch back to the P11 yoke and finish my swap tomorrow. Hopefully, that will fix my problem.

Thomas Reynolds

Has anyone tried to swap in the hydraulic stuff? Is it too impossible to attempt? It would nice to have an easier pedal to push with our aftermarket clutches.

Also, has anyone completely figured out all the switches for a B14? Can you just swap your existing switches in? If you don't (or can't because the switches are different) will the connectors plug right in? I've seen talk of this on B13's just not B14's. (That I remember anyway)

Thanks

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'97 200SX SE-R GT28RS Powered
'06 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX

NX$paniard

Thomas. i just bolted in my P11 trans today.

The switches are different. Way bigger (thread wise)! The connectors are weird too.. the only ones similar on a B12/13/14 have only one guide on each side (like the injector connectors) and these are a dual guide on each side... very different but good design i think....nothing Ive ever seen on any 80s-90s Nissans cause Ive looked in the junkyards. So as far as them just plugging right in... it aint happening.

Also the neutral is way in the front as opposed to the rear so it will require wire lengthening anyway. The reverse wont cause its right by the LSD and the stock connector (resembles the O2 sensor female) will reach.

A cheap way to do this would be to just solder in 2 wires to the switch port and the other 2 spliced in where the harness connector used to be, fill the switch w/ rtv or a big piece of heat shrink over it also so nothing shorts the pins. Thats a ghetto but functional solution. not my route...

i already have one connector and plan to find the other to splice both switches into my B13 harness. not really too hard. I can solder and run wire blind folded

Finding the connectors for the switches is the toughest. im guessing anything B15 and newer will be the only cars to source these type of connectors if we are lucky so keep an eye out for wrecked or parting out P11s and B15s maybe even spec- vs regardless of engine size or tranny configuration!!!
. Chances are these types of connectors are used elsewhere too like emissions junk, etc etc..

Nissan loooves to recycle connectors.. i found a Z32 MAF pigtail equivalent in a 87 Stanza Minivan. Different color wires.. but same connector just an example

On a side note i was able to just bolt my P11 trans right up. I didnt have to grind the shifter rods and they clear and operate perfectly ( the striker rod was grinded and it looks almost perfect). the P11 trans has a really tight feel thru all the gears. I did notice however, that sliding the whole shifter linkage assembly back about a 1/4 to 1/2" helped everything fit better too. Very clean and simple install. ive had tougher times w/ a se-r trans thats for sure...

Feel free to PM me if you have more specific ??s or something..

Ill take pics tomorrow all I have to bolt up is the rear mm and starter..


a glorious day in the garage for me today

glcasmith

B14 - P11 CONNECTORS:
The orientation on the electronic speed sensor for the B14 and P11 is slightly different, but the plug is the same and can be used without modification.

As noted earlier, the reverse and neutral switches are different. The P11 switches are larger thread sizes and are also much larger internally.

While the B14 switches come as 1 piece with extended wire leads and a plug, the P11 switches have a plug built right into the head of the switch. My junkyard P11 came with the mating plugs and short lengths of wire still connected. (The wires had just been cut, instead of disconnecting the plugs) So, I just cut the wire leads and plugs off my B14 switches and soldered them to the wires on the P11 plugs, making an adapter of sorts. One end plugs into the head of the P11 switch and the other plugs into my existing B14 harness. I only got to see the end of the wire that came with my P11 tranny, but these wires might plug into connectors on the P11 harness on the other end, meaning you may be able to get them as a separate part. Or, they may just be wired into the harness directly and not be available separately.

These are just simple open/closed switches, so you don't have to worry about getting positive and negative connected wrong.

CowboyDren

What about retapping the bosses on the transmission and using a helicoil-type thread fitting to use the B14 switches?

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-=|JP|=-

"I can tell you all day long that my dick is 25% stiffer than yours, but without 'hard' numbers or independent testing, who's going to know?"

NX$paniard

eww no way dude... swicthes are cheap brand new from Nissan like less than $15 each. Id solde in wires and heatshrink the connector b4 i would do something that involved...

KrackMnkysNick

I'll be doing this soon with a pedal/clutch master out of a G20 or possibly an altima. I'm surprised no one else has mentioned it in this thread.

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06 Civic LX Coupe

LaRocca Racing

nick, i got your mesg earlier yes i m sure i have some part here for you if you need em ..let me know

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Tony LaRocca
tonylarocca@gmail.com

cutter

i just got my b15 tranny bolted up. i didnt know anything about these switches. do you have to have these hooked up to run the car? you guys are talking about the baby blue, and the black connector on the front/ bottom of the tranny?

NX$paniard

switches are for lights only.. the black one is for your reverse lights
the blue one is for neutral..

You should be good to go without them.... but I would look inot getting them wired up.

i wish I knew where to source those connectors. i only need one more and have no idea where to find them..
This is all u need..

cutter

thanks i am gonna go put some lube in, and crank it up, i mean bump start it because it will never start.

bj200sx

hey sorry if you all covered this already, but 11 pages is to much reading right now. you use *** sr20de clutch on this or what set-ups are there?

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jerryeads

Wow. Shoulda been workin' - spent the last two hours going from beginning to end with link side trips. Thanks all. Seems like the g20t gearing might be a bit more streetable than the B15 ratios for the VE power curves, but that's picking pretty small hairs, I suppose. bj, SEARCH. but your de clutch will fall right in.