HOW TO: P11/B15 transmission swap into a B13/B14/P10 - Page 12

2slow4u · 09-15-2005, 09:51 AM

question: Which p11 tranny is better to have 99 or 2000+. I can seem to locate a 2000 tranny but can find 1999. So trying to get this swap started.

coalitionSE-L · 09-15-2005, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2slow4u

question: Which p11 tranny is better to have 99 or 2000+. I can seem to locate a 2000 tranny but can find 1999. So trying to get this swap started.

This has been mentioned a few times already in this thread I believe. You DO NOT want the 99 P11 tranny, it is essentially the same as the B13/B14/P10 tranny. You want a 2000+ for the better design.

adaluz · 09-19-2005, 02:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Projnx2000

Thanks Jonathon for starting this thread.

I wanted to add something I found while converting my P11 to cable. On my specific tranny (2002 G20, locking) there is a insert where the clutch arm rests in

comparing to a B13

Some quick measurements on the lip above the insert show that without the insert the mounting/pivot hole for the arm is the same diameter as my B13 tranny. So maybe grinding of the B13 shaft might not be needed, only removal of the insert.

After removal of the insert, the grinding of the B13 arm is NOT needed.

What tool did you use to remove the insert? Thanks.

SENTRASER · 09-19-2005, 04:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NX$paniard

switches are for lights only.. the black one is for your reverse lights
the blue one is for neutral..

You should be good to go without them.... but I would look inot getting them wired up.

i wish I knew where to source those connectors. i only need one more and have no idea where to find them..
This is all u need..

so you guys need this exact plug? or the one that plugs INTO that plug? I think I may have found that in a Jeep Grand Cherokee of all places! If anyone that has access to the engine harness side of the plug, PLEASE take as many pictures of it as you feel comfortable, w/o making the plug feel like its being abused.....sexualy.

VVLtrain · 10-03-2005, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adaluz

What tool did you use to remove the insert? Thanks.

I second that. What method did you use to remove that collar insert from the b15/p11 tranny. I just dont want to hack up the casting trying to pry it out unless that is how you did it?

-L

adaluz · 10-04-2005, 02:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VVLtrain

I second that. What method did you use to remove that collar insert from the b15/p11 tranny. I just dont want to hack up the casting trying to pry it out unless that is how you did it?

-L

Autozone loans a pilot bearing puller that might work. I did not use this tool. Because of time constaint i had to grind down the shaft

Projnx2000 · 10-13-2005, 07:37 PM

Sorry I haven't been around lately to see your questions.

The insert is very soft (brass, I believe). I only used a small pocket screwdriver as a chisel. Once I had a slit in the insert, I bent down the 2 sides of the slit and worked the insert out with a pair of needlenose pliers.

I made sure to sand down the hole afterwards. Before installing the clutch arm, make sure it moves smoothly in the hole.

Linus, I answered your PM with the same info, but not as detailed.

I actually have a pilot bearing puller from snap-on, and could not get a grip on the bottom lip of the insert. Which is why I used a screwdriver.

Chris

VVLtrain · 10-13-2005, 09:52 PM

Thanks for the info Chris! I am still debating doing that or having someone turn down the end with a lathe. Somone mentioned that it might be better to turn it down and leave the brass insert in because it is a wearing part. (Better that the soft insert wear down than the aluminum casting and get gritchy) Not sure if it matters. But at least we have 2 options for going about this!

-Linus

SENTRASER · 10-13-2005, 11:52 PM

Broken P11 tranny here:
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread....16#post1239716

sr20boston · 10-24-2005, 10:22 PM

A word to the wise- make sure you measure what you're doing as you go. I ground my B13 shaft too much, so there was a little side-to-side play. I now have to grind up another one.

(B15 on the left, B13 on the right- ground too much)

4x4 · 10-26-2005, 07:48 AM

Hi all ,
I know this is an old subject but I really need your help

here is my story :

The latest tuning and I did gave me 421 WHP and 375 foot pounds of torque 24PSI with ¼ of C 16 in tank ( around 97 octane )

the problem , beening happy did not last more than one day I broke my third Gear transmission this Friday lasting me a one nice good day. Stupid me

Any help or options I can go with ? I'm afraid if I put another transmission it's gonna break also

Here's my transmission I think it is the weak one . am I right ?

where can I buy the transmission that you're talking about ? my Nissan premiera is a 2001 . the dealer did not bring the 2002 or newor models .

I have heard that there is a nice Dog engagement from an Australian company . did anyone hear about it ? I'm searching the net with no luck yet

Its what I suspected .... the 3RD Gear is blown away also the fourth was that a bit damaged

http://www.par-engineering.com/nissa...htm#nissansssd

this is ther email back to me:

Thankyou for your email, We do a gearset for this transmission 1-4 with 5th
remaining standard.

These gears drive the same as standard but will handle high hp/torque.

These gears are for the SR20 FWD transmission

They also are available with ring & pinion

cost is $5000 (AUD) or $3800 (AUD) with no ring & pinion plus freight

They also use a GTIR input clutch spline

We can also supply a complete built transmission if required

With ring & pinion a built transmission will be $5600 (AUD) plus freight.
With no ring & pinion a built transmission will be $4400 (AUD) plus freight
Driving will be the same as the factory gearset but will added strength.
These gearsets are in stock.

------
I have been told from friends And I cot:

"just get the newer style trans. its a lot cheaper and has been proven reliable. the PAR gearsets are expensive and use the old style case. the Syncro gearsets have been broken before on the street. the dog box sets are not as street user friendly although it could be one. also, with the larger input shaft spline, you need a custom clutch setup, or a twin disk clutch setup for a pulsar GTiR. "

my question is :
is there a name or a part number for the transmission ( the new style )?
how can I buy it? as I stated we only have up to 2001 here in Saudi Arabia and my car is a 2001 but sadly it doesn't have a new style transmission

I was told that it B15 transmission will hold more than 500 horsepower . does anybody have a part number that I could look for or even if you can post a photo of that transmission that could help me in my search .

do I need a set of axles tOO?

Thanks a million .

Spec-V-n-NyC · 10-26-2005, 08:56 AM

I'm not going to go thru this whole thread so I will let you in on what i did as far as the sensors go.

The b13 sensors are smaller and won't screw into the b15 trans...SOOOO, I wrapped a sh*tload of that white silicone tape used on plumbing pipes; on the b13 sensors. I used enough to ensure the sensors would not pop out for any reason whatsoever.

I screwed them right in and gave it a little tug...good to go....but wait!

Now looking at the picture of the b13 trans in the first post, I noticed I put the sensor with the black cover in the front of the tranny and the sensor with the green cover on the pass. side.

So I will have to swap them out and put them in the right places. I think I will use a drop of loctite as well for peace of mind.

Figured I'd share that with you.

-Brian

myprojectB13 · 10-26-2005, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spec-V-n-NyC

I'm not going to go thru this whole thread so I will let you in on what i did as far as the sensors go.
The b13 sensors are smaller and won't screw into the b15 trans...SOOOO, I wrapped a sh*tload of that white silicone tape used on plumbing pipes; on the b13 sensors. I used enough to ensure the sensors would not pop out for any reason whatsoever.
I screwed them right in and gave it a little tug...good to go....but wait!
Now looking at the picture of the b13 trans in the first post, I noticed I put the sensor with the black cover in the front of the tranny and the sensor with the green cover on the pass. side.

So I will have to swap them out and put them in the right places. I think I will use a drop of loctite as well for peace of mind.

Figured I'd share that with you.
-Brian

This sounds very dangerous to me, I would not suggest that anyone do this.

CowboyDren · 10-26-2005, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4x4

Hi all ,
I know this is an old subject but I really need your help

No worries, it's actually a very active topic.

"Here's my transmission I think it is the weak one . am I right ?"

I really don't think so. You should have an RS5F70V transmission already, but I don't know how to externally identify one from another. It may be in this thread somewhere.

We started getting them in the US in '00 Sentras and G20s (P11), but no other cars seem to have this model.

"I have heard that there is a nice Dog engagement from an Australian company . did anyone hear about it ? I'm searching the net with no luck yet "

That would be PAR, but the gearset is designed to fit RS5F32V transmissions, which are the weak ones. They're much more common, but the main castings need modification to hold any HP at all. If you can pilot a motorcycle, you can use the dog-gear engagement gearset; it's reportedly not that bad, just different. The PAR set has also been broken quite a bit, whereas the '70V transmission has only been broken a few times.

4x4 · 10-26-2005, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CowboyDren

No worries, it's actually a very active topic.
"Here's my transmission I think it is the weak one . am I right ?"
I really don't think so. You should have an RS5F70V transmission already, but I don't know how to externally identify one from another. It may be in this thread somewhere.

We started getting them in the US in '00 Sentras and G20s (P11), but no other cars seem to have this model.
"I have heard that there is a nice Dog engagement from an Australian company . did anyone hear about it ? I'm searching the net with no luck yet "
That would be PAR, but the gearset is designed to fit RS5F32V transmissions, which are the weak ones. They're much more common, but the main castings need modification to hold any HP at all. If you can pilot a motorcycle, you can use the dog-gear engagement gearset; it's reportedly not that bad, just different. The PAR set has also been broken quite a bit, whereas the '70V transmission has only been broken a few times.

now this part number RS5F70V , Will I find this number on tag on the transmission ? or it's just a part number through the dealers ?

What is the difference between RS5F70A and RS5F70V ??

A friend of mine in Virginia has found one for me he said : " The junkyard man said that it is off of 2001 Nissan Sentra "

I just don't want to ship the transmission of all the way overseas ending up with the wrong transmission

so if you have any good photos so I can send him to make sure it is what I need I would really appreciate it.

last question . with the axles normally fit or do I need to get the axles with the transmission ?

Spec-V-n-NyC · 10-26-2005, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by myprojectB13

This sounds very dangerous to me, I would not suggest that anyone do this.

How so?...I mean it hasn't shown any signs of it popping out...is there something else I should be aware of????????

Let me know dude, I just did this as a quick fix, but if it will hurt me in the long run, I'd like to know about it. LMK.

-B

myprojectB13 · 10-26-2005, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CowboyDren

No worries, it's actually a very active topic.
"Here's my transmission I think it is the weak one . am I right ?"
I really don't think so. You should have an RS5F70V transmission already, but I don't know how to externally identify one from another. It may be in this thread somewhere.

We started getting them in the US in '00 Sentras and G20s (P11), but no other cars seem to have this model.

Cowboy - If you take a look at the gear stacks, that is definitely the weaker version of the trans. Compare it to this photo stollen from coalitionSE-L's post:

Externally you can differentiate between the two transmissions by looking for a black cover on the front driverside of the trans. This is where you remove the reverse idler gear from, this is the redesigned trans, and the one you want.