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They're the same dimensions and splining; the B15 kit superceded the B13/B14 application in the parts catalog several years ago. Don't get a Key Value clutch kit from a Nissan dealer, though; get the "real thing" if you go with OEM. I'd personally step up just a little bit to a JWT or ACT clutch.
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They're the same dimensions and splining; the B15 kit superceded the B13/B14 application in the parts catalog several years ago. Don't get a Key Value clutch kit from a Nissan dealer, though; get the "real thing" if you go with OEM. I'd personally step up just a little bit to a JWT or ACT clutch.
So, if I ordered lets say from clutchmasters with application for a 1991-1994 SE-R, it will fit onto the B15 tranny right? I mean everything like pressure plate clutch disc, throw out bering and etc..?
the switches can be rewired all they are is a pos and neg wire (my way of explaining) so just hook em up i dont think it matters the colors to much. did in my b13 and the tranny nutral switch and backup switch work fine.
on the B15/P11 tranny which is the neutral switch which is the reverse? And the same for the B13 tranny which is the one with yellow wires coming out of it and which is the one with the black wires coming out of it?
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i just bought a non lsd b15 tranny for 350 shipped to my door. i am gonna put a friction lsd in it. the cheapest i could find a b15 with locking was $750. who sells raxles the cheapest?
okay, quick question...my 00 P11 tranny is crunching into 3rd...I think my syncros are bad...I can get a used nonlocking B15 tranny for reasonable, think the internals will swap over? or at least the parts I need...or maybe the whole gear set, or just swap out the entire tranny...
okay, quick question...my 00 P11 tranny is crunching into 3rd...I think my syncros are bad...I can get a used nonlocking B15 tranny for reasonable, think the internals will swap over? or at least the parts I need...or maybe the whole gear set, or just swap out the entire tranny...
I was thinking to use the case of the P11 and the gear stacks from the B15. Can anyone verify that this is doable???
what about LSD options? would they be the same as the B13 Trans or will it require a different unit for upgrade. I just scored a P11 Trans and was curious to see if I could throw a Phantom Grip or Nismo LSD in....
okay, quick question...my 00 P11 tranny is crunching into 3rd...I think my syncros are bad...I can get a used nonlocking B15 tranny for reasonable, think the internals will swap over? or at least the parts I need...or maybe the whole gear set, or just swap out the entire tranny...
I would go with yes on that. The gearstacks should be interchangeable.
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what about LSD options? would they be the same as the B13 Trans or will it require a different unit for upgrade. I just scored a P11 Trans and was curious to see if I could throw a Phantom Grip or Nismo LSD in....
From my experience tearing the B15 tranny down, I discovered that the B15 VLSD is identical to the B13. Reason why I can say that is because I had a spare B13 VLSD laying around and compared the two.
I wanted to add something I found while converting my P11 to cable. On my specific tranny (2002 G20, locking) there is a insert where the clutch arm rests in
comparing to a B13
Some quick measurements on the lip above the insert show that without the insert the mounting/pivot hole for the arm is the same diameter as my B13 tranny. So maybe grinding of the B13 shaft might not be needed, only removal of the insert.
After removal of the insert, the grinding of the B13 arm is NOT needed.
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Last edited by Projnx2000; 05-16-2005 at 03:36 PM.
I wanted to add something I found while converting my P11 to cable. On my specific tranny (2002 G20, locking) there is a insert where the clutch arm rests in
comparing to a B13
Some quick measurements on the lip above the insert show that without the insert the mounting/pivot hole for the arm is the same diameter as my B13 tranny. So maybe grinding of the B13 shaft might not be needed, only removal of the insert.
After removal of the insert, the grinding of the B13 arm is NOT needed.
Good find. So it looks like this install is a complete bolt on affair. I think I might just have been a little grinder happy.
Even if the shifter link is flipped, it would still not clear the stabilizer rod- (hits on back of the mounting stud for the rod). BUT you would not have to grind as much. I only ground down the stud backing about 1/2 way and the bracket from the stud down to about the same level. No clearance issues sitting in the driveway.
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