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I just completed installing a 2001 B15 VLSD in my 98 SER (which previously had a 96 B14 VLSD). I noticed that the input shaft on the B15 was slightly different, in that (i) it was about 1/4" shorter, (ii) the nose was tapered, more like a pencil end, instead of being round and flat on the end to perfectly fit inside the end of the crankshaft on the engine. ....... So, Is this an issue? Does some sort of Pilot bearing need to be added here to keep end of the input shaft from floating around?.... Any additional info would be apprecaited.... Thanx
....Stack
using the B15 shifter/linkage rods with a cut and weld will fix the issue. For the sensors, just use the B15 sensors and try to get teh harness plug (ecu side) and wire them into the B13. (On the ECU side of the B13 the wires are the same pre plug.
Jamie
I'm not talking about the shifter linkage or sensors ..... I'm refering to the input shaft..... the one that goes through the clutch and noses up into the butt of the crank. My concern is that because its slightly shorter on the B15 that it will not have anything to stabilize the tip ....if its not shoved up the hole in the ass end of the crank. Has anyone else noticed this ...... is it a problem? does the install require the addition of a pilot bearing here. ..... Thanx
well if teh guy that made 500WHP on a P11 Trans @ 7500 rpm didnt have any issues as far as the input shaft coming out or stripping or not engaging right, something tells me we'd be ok...
The input shaft only rides in the spigot bush on the RWD cars... ie. 200sx/240sx etc...
The shaft is supported at both ends by bearings in case, so it's not required.
I think I'm going to try an experiment when I go to install my B15 that might eliminate the need to grind the shifter stabilizer. The B13/B14 trannys have a shift rod yoke that 90's off of the striking rod. It's pinned on by a two piece roll pin. It 90's toward the stabilizer rod--but the center of the striking rod on a B13/B14 tranny is approximately 4 inches away from the bell housing. The B15 trannys have a straight shift rod yoke that also pins on to the striking rod with a two piece roll pin. The striking rod on a B15 sits approximately 1 inch away from the bell housing. The striking rod diameters appear to be the same (at least on my 99 tranny compared to the B15) so I'm thinking one yoke could easily be interchanged with another.
Here's my idea: Since the install of the B15/P11 tranny brings the shift rod yoke closer to the stabilizer rod to the point where the stabilizer has to be ground down, I'm going to try and install the shift rod yoke off of my tranny on to the B15 tranny--only I'm going to rotate it 180 degrees first so that it moves the shift rod away from the stabilizer rod (since it 90's away from the striking rod in that configuration). My guess is that the only reason why this would not work is because it might move the rod too far to where it puts the gear shift in an awkward position.
The first step will be seeing if the B13/B14 yoke will fit on the B15 striking rod. I'm in the process of acquiring a spare B13 yoke to test this initial fit. If it does in fact fit, I'll attempt to do the install to see where the shifter rod is moved and see if it is feasible/driveable in that configuration.
__________________
1999 SE-L SR20DET-- Sold!
1997 Maxima-- The bone-stock family machine!
2004 Xterra-- The wife's ride!
Well, they say anything is possible if you don't mind straddling the transmission and looking around a Pro Stock hood scoop. Good thing my tranny's going into a P10, huh?
Your Idea about changing out the B15 shift rod yoke w/b14 and flippin it 180 deg. will absolutely positively work.... I had the same thinking when I did my install. No grinding on the stabilizer bar required. .... but just a little on the back side of the yoke as its rather bulky for its purpose (which can be done much easier before installing on the B15). The striking rod diameter is slightly smaller on the B15. I added a small piece of foil tape to make up the difference, and once the roll pin is back in...... "she tight". At first the gear shift does feel a bit out of place..... drive it a week and you won't know the difference. .... I will try and send a pic of what I have.... tomorrow. Also, I believe this was suggested way earlier in this thread and I was under the impression that this was the known way to go..... Thanx
I think I'm going to try an experiment when I go to install my B15 that might eliminate the need to grind the shifter stabilizer. The B13/B14 trannys have a shift rod yoke that 90's off of the striking rod. It's pinned on by a two piece roll pin. It 90's toward the stabilizer rod--but the center of the striking rod on a B13/B14 tranny is approximately 4 inches away from the bell housing. The B15 trannys have a straight shift rod yoke that also pins on to the striking rod with a two piece roll pin. The striking rod on a B15 sits approximately 1 inch away from the bell housing. The striking rod diameters appear to be the same (at least on my 99 tranny compared to the B15) so I'm thinking one yoke could easily be interchanged with another.
Here's my idea: Since the install of the B15/P11 tranny brings the shift rod yoke closer to the stabilizer rod to the point where the stabilizer has to be ground down, I'm going to try and install the shift rod yoke off of my tranny on to the B15 tranny--only I'm going to rotate it 180 degrees first so that it moves the shift rod away from the stabilizer rod (since it 90's away from the striking rod in that configuration). My guess is that the only reason why this would not work is because it might move the rod too far to where it puts the gear shift in an awkward position.
The first step will be seeing if the B13/B14 yoke will fit on the B15 striking rod. I'm in the process of acquiring a spare B13 yoke to test this initial fit. If it does in fact fit, I'll attempt to do the install to see where the shifter rod is moved and see if it is feasible/driveable in that configuration.
Just FYI, you'd want to do this before you put the tranny on the car....trust me...its a PITA once it is on the car.
__________________
~Ryan
1992 NX2000 Hardtop
1989 B12 AWD wagon
1996 200SX SE-R Slowly geting the boost-treatment.
Update: the SR20 has VET+T now, and P11 forward gears
Quote:
Originally Posted by abelsgotspeed
look i dont feel like searching its either you give me the answer or you shut the fu*k up
Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscar
Easy rule when going turbo.... upgrade EVERYTHING. Because eventually you will need to.
I see that now and I feel like an idiot. And I thought I was on to something......
Hey man... give yourself credit for thinking outside the box.... you are on to something, this is what makes the forum worth while..... we're just backing you up with the tried and true.... I have a picture I would love to share ....
And 3 days later ... ... I finally figured this 'bastidge' out and got the pic posted here in the thread..... Hard to tell it here, but there is actually more clearance between the yoke and the stabilizer mount.... Hope it helps Thanx..... Stack
Last edited by Stackdaddy; 06-12-2005 at 01:19 AM.
Reason: tried to add picture
What is the best/easiest way to get the roll pins out?
I am putting a P11 tranny in my B14 this weekend, Is it worth the time and effort to try and switch the yoke from my B14 trans over the the P11, or just grind away?
Additionally, I'm not sure that using the transmission from a Spec-V or a Maxima is worth the differences. The gearing isn't exactly night-and-day different, but a turbo car might be nicer with the Maxima gearing. Clearly a Torsen-type diff is a huge improvement in feel for the driver, but a NISMO or similar diff reportedly seems to do the job well. You'd also have to convert to a cable-actuated shifter, which just plain sucks. The transmissions that SR/QG-powered P11s and B15s used was still rod-actuated. Not sure if you can make a cable-operated clutch work in the P12 bellhousing, either, so you'd have to convert your older body to use a hydro clutch.
Last edited by CowboyDren; 06-16-2005 at 02:12 AM.
With both tranny's out of the car, the single roll pin can be knocked out, and the back of the yoke grinded flat and then swapped in 5-10 minutes.... and as was previously stated all thats needed for removal/installation is a hammer and a punch... Thanx
..Stack
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... I finally figured this 'bastidge' out and got the pic posted here in the thread..... Hard to tell it here, but there is actually more clearance between the yoke and the stabilizer mount.... Hope it helps Thanx..... Stack 
