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hi guys, i got a group buy consolt cable a little while ago. i only managed to use it once, (i trapped it in my car door whilst in use and its broken now).
there were no codes etc to pull and everything looked fine, except;
TPS 0.68v @ idle
now when im driving @ wot, or accelerating HARD in 2nd/3rd gear i am noticing that power is flattening out above 5000rpm, it just doesnt PULL HARD all the way to the redline like i would expect it to...
my idle is a little fluttery, and i do get some "chugging" / jerking when at low speed.
1999 SR20 RR (UK Spec, 1999 Primera GT 150ps standard)
17" Timing (i believe, it depends if the mechanic misread the timings, could be 13 or 17..)
SS AC Header 2.0
2.25 SS Cat back exhaust
Apexi Cone filter
running 97ron Shell Optimax petrol
what do you guys reck, if i get it back down to 0.50 would this make enough of a difference to stop this, or am i barking up the wrong tree here?
if it's at .68v that shouldn't cause it to do *** you just explain ....even thou the proper voltage should be anywhere between .45 to .5 i don't think that .68 woul cause those problems ....i would check MAF or a faulty connection , and if the idle flutters i would also check injectors.
damn well ill get it fixed up, and then see what happens,
i will get a multimeter to check out what the voltages are saying. both on the injectors and the MAF i think.
i have removed the MAF housing and cleaned the actual MAF hotwire with Carb cleaner type stuff and also cleaned the maf housing too. made a slight difference but not much.
when i use my power windows the idle drops substationally for half a sec, could i need regrounding too?
I would recommend reset the TPS to .45 and then check all of the grounds (especially the battery & alty).
Have you reground your MAF? If not, that will make a difference to.
Sometimes this happens to my car and it can be a PITA to discover the cause.
thanks DC, as i say i broke my Consult cable so going to be difficult to hit 0.45 exact, BUT i did go out today and buy a decent Multimeter so that i can check
tps
injectors
MAF
also ordered a timing light so i can set my own timing too..
lol! i know, i moved house a couple of times in the last few months and kinda lost it but i found it in one of the boxes and thought that you would well have forgotten about it by now, so just left it!
but yea that would be awesome if you would take a look at it, for me, as i said i only got it working 1 time and it was brilliant, but you know *&^% happens!
okay, adjusted my TPS, set base timing to nearer 19" generally messed about with loads of stuff, and my car does feel like its running something quicker, so im happy for the time being with performance. just need to get my rad fan sorted now
Take 2 straightened paper clips and insert into the back of the TPS connector (leave the TPS plugged in). Using your digital meter and a set of alligator clips, connect the meter to the paper clips. Set your TPS to .45v with throttle closed. Then check the TPS voltage at the WOT position (often forgotten step); should be 4.0 volts exactly. If not, adjust the throttle stop screw to achieve 4.0 setting.
