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Hi everyone . new here . but have a sr20 and basically the problem is I have a four inch piping on and when turning on the car and revving it, it goes all the way up then sounds like its gonna die but then goes to its normal level.
my friend told me that it cold be my 4'' inch piping... and i ask y. he said that its throughing all that back pressure out.
You put 4 inch piping on a naturally aspirated engine? Are you retarded? Congratulations, you're officially slower then stock.
Anything bigger then 2.25 inch on N/A will result in power loss. Back pressure has nothing to do with it. It has to do with pulse tuning, which you've now effectively destroyed.
But to answer your question, which has been covered many times, your idle is turned down too low. To fix it all you have to do is use the search button to get the answer.
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1998 200SX SE-R No Slow, 2 Point-Oh!
Thats awesome, did you put a bunch of folgers coffee tins together?
Serious, accel's right, you have to make sure to put yourself back to at MAX for an n/a engine 2.5". And that's only if you have aftermarket cams and all the bolt ons. If not, 2.25" will be just fine.
PS if you do go more than 2.5" you'd better have a VVL
You put 4 inch piping on a naturally aspirated engine? Are you retarded? Congratulations, you're officially slower then stock.
Anything bigger then 2.25 inch on N/A will result in power loss. Back pressure has nothing to do with it. It has to do with pulse tuning, which you've now effectively destroyed.
But to answer your question, which has been covered many times, your idle is turned down too low. To fix it all you have to do is use the search button to get the answer.
the guy that I got the car was retarded. I traded my honda for the s13.
came with the sr20det and right hand drive, front Silvia conversion, rims, toyo tiers, stage 3 clutch and a few other things in it.
Thats awesome, did you put a bunch of folgers coffee tins together?
Serious, accel's right, you have to make sure to put yourself back to at MAX for an n/a engine 2.5". And that's only if you have aftermarket cams and all the bolt ons. If not, 2.25" will be just fine.
PS if you do go more than 2.5" you'd better have a VVL
Thanks for the laugh, that was great.
your car FTW:
I hear echos of snowballz
WOW !!!!! HOLY sh*tT . MY EXHAUST IS NOT THAT fu*kING BIG. LOL WOW. fu*kIN BUCKET BRO'////
THIS IS HOW BIG MY EXHAUST. ITS THE PIPING THAT'S BIG
While 4" is overkill even for a boosted sr20, it's not causing your problems, and you can tell your friend that turbo engines don't 'need' backpressure.
I'm going to take a wild ass guess and say that your bov isn't recirculated. If not, that's your problem.
How about some engine bay pics, it'll help us get a feel for what we're working with here.
And please loose the CAPS LOCK and bold text, it makes you look juvenile.
If so, it doesn't matter if the BOV is recirculated or not. It will run fine. His idle is turned down too low. Unplug the TPS and turn the screw out till it idles at 1,000. Wait 15 seconds or so and plug the TPS back in. It'll take the ECU a couple miles to learn then your needle will be rock solid.
My friends Sr-powered 240 had the exact same problem and it vents to atmosphere and is also draw-through. That's all I had to do to it to fix it.
Yeah, I know the technicalities of it. But I've never seen an SR in a 240 that's draw/vented run badly. I can't explain why, cause I know it should run rich and want to die from venting metered air.
