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i got an epoxy based paint from home depot. it comes in a 5 gallon container. it's been over a year and holding up pretty well aside from a little peeling on heavy traffic. i guess, you have to clean the floor really well before you apply it to make it stick.
91 SR20. AEM CAI, Stillen Header, JG Throttle Body, JUN Ultralight Flywheel, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, H&R Springs, Tokico Struts, Cusco STB, UR Pullies, Fart can w/ 2.25" piping, grounding kit. http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...c/fc82a48e.jpg
I'm looking into the stuff Porter Paints sells. We talked to someone about painting the floor at work, and he said prep work is the key. If you don't have the floor prepped good, even the best paint won't stick. I'm hoping to paint my floor this summer also. I need to finish the ceiling and walls first though.
1996 200SX SE-R VE powered
2004 Subaru Forester turbo
2006 Mitsubishi Evolution IX
my father and i did this two years ago. for some strange reason we decided to listen to the home depot kid for a change and he told us all you had to do was put the paint down (dont remember what kind). Within 6 months the paint started peeling again where it was peeling before. It turns out you have to specially treat the bare concrete areas first (called acid etching?) and then put the paint on. My point is that prep work is the key just as eric said above. and when your working with the cleaners to clean the ground... where dishwashing gloves or sumthing *** that stuff tends to burn
(1) etch the floor (2). use a good xylen base stain 2 to 3 coats, lots of colors to chose from (3.) 2 coats of a xylen clear and your good to go for years and the floor drys a rock hard glossy finish ..
Use some muratic acid and water mix to etch the floor and then clean it really good with a mop and water then paint or use a concrete stain with an epoxy sealer try Griots they've got a good paint two part system . I wouldnt use stuff from a paint store its not as good a quality
my friend is hooking me up with this company he used. unless he drops something hard enough to chip the concrete, it doesnt come off....
kinda off topic, i was doing brakes on a ford exploDer and the rotors and hub are an integral assembly and when i was taking the bearings out it slipped off the axle and slammed into our nicely painted sealed floor and put a chunk the size of the tip of my thumb into the floor, those things weigh at least 25 pounds
gotta love fords.....
Behr paints ( www.behr.com ) has a great right up on how to do this. I plan on this route as soon as the animal gets finished.
I used this... I put down the preping primer after sanding the floor lightly and power washing it.. The floor then looks permenantly wet. Then I put down some flat grey Behrs concrete paint.... It worked awewome.... Don't skimp on the primer though..
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I essentially renovated my garage for winter use this year, and among other things I used the Rustoleum epoxy from Home Depot. It's a single car garage, so only 250sq/ft and it was *just* enough. So far, it's been extremely durable and I'm very pleased with it. If you're still working on bare concrete you should do yourself a favor and epoxy it.
The benefit of not staining the floor with every spill is obvious, but it also brightens up the garage significantly. The color of what I used is a light beige color, which reflects the light a lot better than oil-stained and pitted concrete. Here is a before and after pic, representing nearly a week straight of work:
I looked around a bunch a year ago, and Air-Tech makes this stuff for hangar floors. It's a two part epoxy (the fumes will knock you on your arse!) put down in two coats with a poly urethane top coat. Only way it comes up is it you hit the floor hard enough to damage the concrete underneath. My floor is around 620 sq-ft; I used 4 gallons of the epoxy and 1.5 of the poly. It sounds expensive, but came out to about $0.67 sq-ft ... pretty cheap for flooring.
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