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Go Back   SR20 Forum > Main Forums > Garage Tips & Tricks



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Old 03-31-2005, 03:19 AM   #21 (permalink)
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zipties...lots and lots of zipties. when i got my hotshot intake my EGR hose wasnt long enough, went to Home Depot Racing and bought a toilet drain valve hose thing and voila! $1.37 later problem solved! also, exhaust pipes, mop handles, and vacuum cleaner hose extensions all make nice breaker bars for axle nuts and lug nuts
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Old 04-05-2005, 12:00 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Use the oil change sticker from the window to hold bolts or nuts into the socket. Not a sticky one but the ones that are thick plastic.
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Old 04-06-2005, 04:19 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Don't buy TORX and allen bits, TORX will do both.
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Old 04-07-2005, 07:22 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zerosin
Don't buy TORX and allen bits, TORX will do both.
sounds like stripped bits or bolts just waiting to happen to me...
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Old 04-07-2005, 07:26 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by La_Noche
zipties...lots and lots of zipties. when i got my hotshot intake my EGR hose wasnt long enough, went to Home Depot Racing and bought a toilet drain valve hose thing and voila! $1.37 later problem solved! also, exhaust pipes, mop handles, and vacuum cleaner hose extensions all make nice breaker bars for axle nuts and lug nuts
why were you playing with your EGR when you bought an intake?

i had an old vacuum cleaner extension i had to use as a cheater bar, the ratchet went right through the walls of the pipe. the only exhaust i have lying around is my stock exhaust, and it is a little unwieldy as a cheater bar...
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Old 04-07-2005, 06:32 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I use a 5" paintball gun barrel as a little cheater bar. It has worked good so far.
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Old 04-07-2005, 08:53 PM   #27 (permalink)
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i cant believe my post motivated a thread.
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Old 04-14-2005, 09:54 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockwood
sounds like stripped bits or bolts just waiting to happen to me...
Been there done that, bought a set of allens.
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Old 04-14-2005, 10:51 PM   #29 (permalink)
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found a new one today...

i was changing the rear pads out and promptly grew tired of the needlenose pliers in the slots routine so i removed the boot (just pulls off), busted out the channel locks, and gripped it from the side on the part between where the brake pad would be and the little channel there. i then rotated the piston with the channel locks. took about 1/2 the time and didnt ruin my hands because they slip off.
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Old 04-15-2005, 02:26 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Any tricks on getting the oil pan off.. There's a Ken Moore tool out there but i can't get the part number for it..
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Old 04-15-2005, 03:18 AM   #31 (permalink)
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^ i used a Xacto withl chisel blade but it was a PITA
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Old 04-21-2005, 02:13 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockwood
why were you playing with your EGR when you bought an intake?

i had an old vacuum cleaner extension i had to use as a cheater bar, the ratchet went right through the walls of the pipe. the only exhaust i have lying around is my stock exhaust, and it is a little unwieldy as a cheater bar...
What do you mean? I still needed my EGR to pass emissions and make my car run but the stock hose didnt fit onto the HotShot intake.
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Old 04-21-2005, 10:59 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by La_Noche
What do you mean? I still needed my EGR to pass emissions and make my car run but the stock hose didnt fit onto the HotShot intake.
Maybe you're thinking of the AIV hose...the EGR goes into the intake manifold.
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Old 04-21-2005, 11:24 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocket
Any tricks on getting the oil pan off.. There's a Ken Moore tool out there but i can't get the part number for it..
http://www.nissantechmate.com/detail.aspx?id=329
$66.02, I found the part number on that web-site and called them. The part number is J-37228. Do not omit the dash " - ".
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Old 04-21-2005, 12:03 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocket
Any tricks on getting the oil pan off.. There's a Ken Moore tool out there but i can't get the part number for it..
Kent-Moore Part No J37228 You can see it in action here.

Lew
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Old 04-27-2005, 07:37 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocket
Any tricks on getting the oil pan off.. There's a Ken Moore tool out there but i can't get the part number for it..
I have always used a flat head screw driver, just go around and twist it to pull up on the pan. be carefull not to mess up the aluminum surface or bend the pan though.


I once welded a broken breaker bar to the crank of a honda d-series motor to get the crank pulley off the other end. had no other way to hold the crank.

No one has mentioned the screwdriver in the oil filter trick. or sandpaper.
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Old 04-27-2005, 08:52 PM   #37 (permalink)
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A Lisle oil filter wrench makes stuck filters so easy to get off that it renders the screwdriver trick unnecessary. Pep Boys used to carry them, but apparently no longer. I'm sure they're available at other places, I just don't know which ones.

David
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Old 04-28-2005, 04:25 PM   #38 (permalink)
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For axle seals, or out-put shaft seals: I didnt have a big-ass socket to tap it in, so I went an got a soup can, worked perfectly.
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Old 04-29-2005, 02:14 AM   #39 (permalink)
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^^^ soup can, great idea


Quote:
Originally Posted by pertuzian
A Lisle oil filter wrench makes stuck filters so easy to get off that it renders the screwdriver trick unnecessary. Pep Boys used to carry them, but apparently no longer. I'm sure they're available at other places, I just don't know which ones.

David
what the hell is a Lisle oil filter wrench? I have just never been able to make one of the regular filter wrenches work on an sr20.
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Old 04-29-2005, 02:45 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Gi-normous washers of various sizes+bench vise to easliy press out the OEM firewall motor mount.

Bent cotter pins to remove the window crank handles.

Spackle/putty knife (nice and wide though) for oil pan removal.

Stripped bolt-heads...JB weld a cheap-o socket to it.

Impact wrenches make your life easier *everywhere*. Buy one cheap from Harbor Freight.

Windsheild wiper arm removal: tap it a few times with a mallet. Not a mullet. Or a fish.

Loose or droopy exhaust: Jack up the exhaust where you need it ad fit hose clamps over the exhaust hanger like a wristwatch.

Removing a silencer from a N1 or ebay N1-copy: Use the "peg" end of a cheap jack.

Friction-based trim clips (like in the seatbelt trim on the door panel): Take a used fork and pry it out slowly.

Lightly-torqued broken-head bolts: Either grind a slit with a Dremel or punch one in with a chisel to use a large flathead to remove.

If you're in a real crunch, you can weld up exhaust cracks with a Zippo and tinfoil.

No, not really.
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