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Go Back   SR20 Forum > Main Forums > Garage Tips & Tricks



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Old 03-18-2005, 12:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
pertuzian
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Best tool substitutions and tricks

Quote:
a/c orfice puller, you can use drywall screws for that
This brought to mind an idea for a new thread - what substitutions do we use in working on our cars when we replace some expensive or hard-to-find tool with something common/cheap that is meant for some other use? The above is an example, using big screwdrivers/pry bars/BFHes to separate ball joints would be another.


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Old 03-18-2005, 04:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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rather then buying a breaker bar you put a long pole on the end of a rachet

everyone does it
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Old 03-18-2005, 04:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I never did
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Old 03-18-2005, 04:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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For removing the crank pulley, you can usually use two pry bars on opposite ends, and pry against the webbed part of the front cover. Just be careful to work it out nicely, dont just pry and break through the aluminum front cover!

I've done this numerous times, and its much faster and easier than renting a pulley puller. My Nissan tech friend of 15 years taught me that one
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Old 03-18-2005, 07:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by back to black
rather then buying a breaker bar you put a long pole on the end of a rachet

everyone does it
I've never done it in my life


but yea most people use the long pole and reurn the ratchet to seares when they break it
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Old 03-18-2005, 08:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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but chris ya cant beat it! free replacement by craftsman correct?
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Old 03-18-2005, 10:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I never did

ok so i lied
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Old 03-19-2005, 02:07 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I think I have removed more parts from various different cars with my trusty Ryobi angle grinder than any other tool I have ever owned.
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Old 03-19-2005, 11:39 AM   #9 (permalink)
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a deep socket works great when you dont have a clutch alignment tool.
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Old 03-19-2005, 11:52 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarC
a deep socket works great when you dont have a clutch alignment tool.
I just did that one.
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Old 03-19-2005, 11:54 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I've had good luck using the end of a 2x4 to evenly tap in axle seals.
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Old 03-19-2005, 01:49 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Just as a time saver I used a deep-well socket and a big flat blade screwdriver to pull my water temp senders. Worked fine and it only took a couple min. I didn;t even have to remove anything to get to them.

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Old 03-19-2005, 05:14 PM   #13 (permalink)
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if you're having trouble getting the allen screws loose on your TB (most likely) with your tiny ass allen wrenches, just take the smallest deep socket that will fit (like an 8mm) over it, put an extension in the end of the socket, and you have an instant cheater bar for your allen wrenches.

the BFH fixes all. i have a plastic covered deadblow, works great and does not mar/mushroom everything.

if you have room for those mega cheater bars on a breaker bar or ratchet, you also have room for the "earthquake". i picked it up at harbor freight for $79.99 and its the best money i have spent. the thing cranks out something like 725 ft-lbs.
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Old 03-19-2005, 06:20 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Pop an intercooler hose off on the highway.. and you don't have a screwdriver? Find a Dime (10 cents... not a bag of dope:p) and use it to retighten your clamp. Of course it won't hold boost too well, but it'll seal enough to get you home.

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Old 03-19-2005, 09:49 PM   #15 (permalink)
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ohh yeah.

best thing to tighten hoseclamps are those $1 screwdrivers with the 4 different tips in them (with the green handle). remove the tips, and the big side fits the hoseclamp perfectly. you can get them so tight with this you can break the clamp, so be careful. MUCH better than the hit or miss, slip-a-thon flathead method.
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Old 03-21-2005, 11:38 AM   #16 (permalink)
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heres one next time you break a head stud off in the head, get a nut and weld it to the broken stud and then get a wrench on it to turn it out, the welding heats it up also so it's killing two birds with one stone.
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Old 03-21-2005, 09:16 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Can't get that bolt started with a rachet and a extension because the bolt keeps falling out of the socket? You can't get your hand
close enough to start the bolt with your fingers? Take some bubble gum and stick on the head of the bolt so it will stick to the socket.

To loosen Crank bolt, Get a 1/2 breaker bar. Hook the breaker bar and socket to the crank bolt. Try to get the breaker bar close to the ground. Depending on the way the engine turns over, this will decide where you position the breaker bar.
Get everything hooked up and tap the starter. You will use the starter to turn over the engine and use the ground to hold the bar in place while you turn the car over to break the bolt free. Sounds crazy but I have used this method several times.
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Old 03-21-2005, 10:40 PM   #18 (permalink)
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one of the best tools i ever bought was a $2 foot long steel pipe from home depot. Use it as a breaker bar and a hammer Comes in handy for getting lug nuts off when using the stock lug nut wrench. Slides over just about anything so that you can get the extra leverage.
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Old 03-22-2005, 11:54 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I've use sockets all the time to tap in seals and sometimes you've got one the same diameter as the seal. Plus no sharp edges like punches have.

I'd recommend using axle grease instead of the bubble gum to hold bolts in a socket. Easier to clean up.

You can get sets of two or three jaw gear pullers at Harbor Freight for like $10 a set and they work nicely.

Steve, I've got that same impact, hell of a deal for $80.
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Old 03-30-2005, 02:31 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I have various sizes of Home Depot pipe for ratchet handles. For serious stuff I use a section of roll bar tubing on the end of the Craftsman breaker bar. You guys don't remember taking a VW front hub nut loose. Best substitute; a 9/16" (14 mm) socket into the filler from the five gallon dump can. Seats perfectly into the filler neck of the Nissan. Even locks in place.
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