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I thought about buying a mig welder until I used one. I prefer the tig welder and think its easier to use, but I can't afford one of my own so I just use the one at work. I do agree that sheilded is the only way to go.
...Most recently, I've been using a Lincoln Power MIG 255 and it is superb. The digital controls make it very easy to repeat settings. If you look on ebay, you can find 175 amp Lincolns and Millers for around $7-800 and 250amp ones for around $1800....
agreed, the 255 is a great machine - it has spoiled me on fine adjustment digital controls. Being able to adjust in .2v increments allows you alot more leeway in your technique - lesser machines with only 4 voltage "zones" compromise bead quality and control. Bigger machines allow for much finer control, much less frustration and more headroom for penetration. If you're a first timer, do not underestimate things like duty cycle, adjustability and amperage - they can make a difference between making kick-ass welds or getting frustrated and e-baying a sh*t-box for a major loss.
if anyone is on the fence, I highly recommend taking an open welding lab at your local CC or tech school. I just finished a 12wk./4hr. per wk. open lab for $330 and was exposed to $3000-5000 machines that I'll never in my life be able to use again, down to a 90amp Miller Sidekick to an $800 Al spoolgun on a $2000 machine. I've had exposure to all kinds of machines that seriously helped my technique and understanding of welding and also helped me know which machines would be worth buying and which ones, while cheaper, are not as good of a deal
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save the whales, harpoon fat chicks
flux welding suck stinky anus. never, ever, buy a "MIG" that you don't have the capability for gas welding (really, its just a flux wire-feed welder, not a MIG). Flux welders, IMO, are a waste of money and you get the added bonus of using your grinder/wire wheel a lot to clean up snotty welds and soot.
I have to disagree with this to some degree. I started welding with a flux core wire welder. I am the only one in my shop that can use it, everyone else just burns holes in the metal and in themselves. I can get a weld far better than you may imagine out of it on IC piping and BOV flanges, ect.
Now of course, its not quality, its not extremely strong, but for most crude jobs it performs rather well.
An auto darkening helmet is also a very valuable investment.
Black '95 200sx SE-R Turbo Lowport 286whp/245wtq 12.306 @ 113.55
White '92 NX2000 All Stock.
White '92 NX2000 Automatic, stock, not moving, and FOR SALE <---- Click for Pics
Quote:
Originally Posted by BORNGEARHEAD
It's pathetic the amount of people in this country that believe all the bullsh*t being spewed out the mouths of Bush, Cheney, Rove, Rice, Snow, oil companies, lobbyists, etc.
I still use a oxy-acetylene welder. You can do just about anything with it though: cut steel, weld steel or aluminum, braze... It is very cheap to get started with too.
I have to disagree with this to some degree. I started welding with a flux core wire welder. I am the only one in my shop that can use it, everyone else just burns holes in the metal and in themselves. I can get a weld far better than you may imagine out of it on IC piping and BOV flanges, ect.
Now of course, its not quality, its not extremely strong, but for most crude jobs it performs rather well.
An auto darkening helmet is also a very valuable investment.
don't get me wrong. i learned to weld with a stick welder (which teaches you a LOT about welding) and it will get the job done, but why use it if you can use something else?
don't get me wrong. i learned to weld with a stick welder (which teaches you a LOT about welding) and it will get the job done, but why use it if you can use something else?
I use the wire welder sometimes because it is portable. For example, to add a hanger onto the underside of a car, with the car on the lift.
I am wearing some work pants right now that have a bunch of little tiny burn holes right in my lap... flux is messy.
Alot of good advice here...so I will heave in my 2 cents.
Get a good idea of what you really intended to use this thing for. There is a wide range, from folks who just need to weld a bracket or broken part now and then to people like Andris who have bionic welding attachments grafted into their forearms. Your need will dictate what you should get. If you just need a quick fix now an then, a basic Miller or Lincoln gas unit can be found for $500 or so brand new. Don't forget, you going to have to factor in extra costs like a tank and gas, gloves, a helmet if you want one, some brushes and tip cleaning stuff, etc etc. Even a small tank will run you $50 to $100 for the initial purchase and maybe $20 for the fill.
Also, think about the power you have available. I haven't seen many garages that have a 40-50 amp 220 circuit in them. Factor in the cost to add that if you plan on getting a big boy welder. You could run a really big cord from your dryer or range socket, but my wife frowns on that.
If you plan on doing alot of welding, definitely pony up and get something that will handle the duty cycle you expect.
You could run a really big cord from your dryer or range socket, but my wife frowns on that.
This option usually requires some kind of very fancy probably expensive if-its-even-made plug adapter, because the welding plug configuration is different than a standard dryer or range socket. You could also re-plug the welder, I guess.
But also, check the breaker box and make sure your breaker and the wire headed to your dryer or range is actually made to handle the welder. All 240 outlets are not created equal.
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1991 SE-r Aztec Red "Quiet, She's sleeping"
1992 SE-r Ruby Red "Now with 100% less engine"
1992 SE-r Black Beauty... "It's not his anymore"
This option usually requires some kind of very fancy probably expensive if-its-even-made plug adapter, because the welding plug configuration is different than a standard dryer or range socket. You could also re-plug the welder, I guess.
But also, check the breaker box and make sure your breaker and the wire headed to your dryer or range is actually made to handle the welder. All 240 outlets are not created equal.
It's easy peasy. It's what I did. You just make an extension cord that has the correct connection on the end that plugs in. Now that I have a shop I need to just change the plug end.
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George Roffe
91 SE-R (well modded)
84 944 SCCA ITS race car under construction
http://www.nissport.com
that cord is expensive too. a 40-50 amp extension chord for 20' will need to be pretty thick.
Not too bad for pricing. I went down to the local electrical wholesaler (stay away from Home Depot and such....too pricey and they never have anything of industrial value) and made myself a 30 foot extension for my Syncrowave.
Its 6AWG, waterproof, oilproof, and abrasion resistant. Wire it up to a 220V, 50A plug and female end and you're set to go. Putting in car stereos is harder!
Here's my indoor/outdoor 220V 50 amp receptacle. Its wired directly under my main 200amp service panel for the house. Any future buyers of my house will be wondering what kind of monster clothes dryer I had outside.
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"Better living through chemistry...."
It's easy peasy. It's what I did. You just make an extension cord that has the correct connection on the end that plugs in. Now that I have a shop I need to just change the plug end.
I suspect you're more educated about this then I -- and I've actually wondered some about this, thinking of making our TIG (nearly-two-person) portable.
How bad do you really think it would be to make the extension cord, then run off a 40 amp breaker? I think the wiring is 12 AWG.
Well, I wasn't doing any serious continuous welding so I wasn't too concerned. Also, the breaker should go before the wires reach any danger zone. That's why we have breakers.
How bad do you really think it would be to make the extension cord, then run off a 40 amp breaker? I think the wiring is 12 AWG.
To be safe, a longish (25-50ft) cord should be at the smallest, 8 AWG....I would go with something like narcotix who used 6AWG. 6/3 flexible cord with oil resistant jacket will run atleast $1 a foot, much more at a home improvement place, if they even carry anything lest that 10/3 flexible cable.
Well, I wasn't doing any serious continuous welding so I wasn't too concerned. Also, the breaker should go before the wires reach any danger zone. That's why we have breakers.
It was simply an expedient solution.
Don't listen to Geo, when he started working on cars they didn't even have AC current. ;-P
