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I'm gonna be slippin a VE in the classic in a few months, I've got the basic socket set, metric wrenches, pliars, screw drivers, pair of jack stands, 2 ton jack, air compressor, air wrench, a die grinder. Also got myself a FSM. I dont mind purchasing anything thats gonna make the swap alot easier.
Gonna need an engine hoist, any recommendations for around $300?
Impact wrench? Breaker Bar?, Socket extensions? Torque wrench (specs)? Deep well sockets?
Thanks
:edit: I think I may have put this in the wrong section?
The only 2 main things you need are a 32mm socket for the axels and a engine hoist. Anything else just consists of ratchets and sockets. Make sure you have a 1/4", 3/8" and a 1/2" ratchet with plenty of metric sizes handy, both shallow and deep well. Sizes you really need are 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 15mm, 17mm, and 19mm. Also a 3" and 6" extension for each will do. Can never be too prepared for a job.
I got my hoist at autozone, I think 130. folds up and all. You have catch bucket for coolant/trans fluid? I like latex gloves and plently of rags. Be prepared to fight rusty exhaust. Maybe some PB blaster. Definately an impact gun. I use air at work, but we have an electric impact at home. It looks really old but works the balls. Has a regular 1/2 square for sockets and plugs into the wall. Nails my axle nuts off too.
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Really? I need a hoist and checked autozone the other day and it was $229 bucks, maybe it's just NY? I have a 32mm 12 pt socket, is this ok or should I get the 6 pt??
Which electric gun do you have that you were able to get those axle nuts off???? Brand? Model #? Price?
Pep Boys has an excellent engine hoist for $129, and they usually have a $20 rebate deal on it in the Sunday newspaper. It has foldable legs which is nice, because it'll take up less room in your garage. Here's the same one at Northern Tool. Their price is decent, since it includes a load leveller, but shipping will KILL you.
You're going to need a big socket for the power steering line (22mm?), as well as the axle nuts. You don't *need* an impact wrench, but it sure is handy. If you don't have one, just stick a heavy duty screwdriver through the hole in the brake caliper and into the brake rotor cooling slots to keep it from turning.
Do yourself a favor and buy an engine stand. Nothing sucks more than sitting on your ass swapping parts between engines. You'll thank me, I promise.
Harborfreight is your friend, here's a few links to stuff that I've bought and while it's not SnapOn quality, I haven't broken anything yet in 4 or 5 engine swaps.
Spend the $20, it's better than spilling oil and coolant all over the place, plus it's handy for tossing parts in as you take them off the engine. OIL PAN FOR ENGINE STAND
You will also need a few basic wiring tools. Wire cutters, strippers, soldering iron, electric tape, wire loom, and those quick connect things are all good to have.
oh, a nice long breaker bar is good to have too when wrestling with the engine going in and out. I just recently bought a set of swivel extenstions and use the crap out of them too.
I'm gonna be slippin a VE in the classic in a few months, I've got the basic socket set, metric wrenches, pliars, screw drivers, pair of jack stands, 2 ton jack, air compressor, air wrench, a die grinder. Also got myself a FSM. I dont mind purchasing anything thats gonna make the swap alot easier.
Gonna need an engine hoist, any recommendations for around $300?
Impact wrench? Breaker Bar?, Socket extensions? Torque wrench (specs)? Deep well sockets?
Thanks
:edit: I think I may have put this in the wrong section?
get a hoist from Harbor freight. they ar $149 and they fold up to store in a corner of the garage very well. you will need the 32mm for the axle nuts. I say invest in a set of Gear Wrenches. not the craftsman ones, but the Gear wrench brand.
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You'll want something to use as a platform for the motor so you can roll it around your garage floor. If you're dropping the motor out the bottom this is a must. I forgot about this minor detail and ended up using a mechanic's creeper (which didn't collapse, to my surprise).
A $20 furniture dolly would work well, I believe.
These aren't bad for the price, but they're kinda thin walled. I split one right down the center on a rear suspension nut. I ended up getting another set that were a bit beefier.
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The electric impact is ancient, but worls the balls. If you're gonna buy tools for life, just pick up some Cornwell tools. They are a bit cheaper. Nothning wrong with Craftsmen either. Easy to swap a broken tool at sears. I do have Snap on tools, but I have a lot of Matco and Cornwell. They are all lifetime warranty anyway.
Just picked up that earthquake impact, the 14 set piece of impact sockets, two more beefier jack stands, a beefier jack, and some extentions all for $200. Harbor frieght rocks. Just so happen to have one near me
I also found someone with an engine hoist and a tranny jack that I can borrow!
A heavy floor jack is extremely useful (I think I used two, but then again there happened to be two available.)
I second the advice to get an engine stand. Much, much easier to do things like replace the water pump, the hoses under the intake, etc. If you put new rod bearings in it (do people do this with VE installs?) it can be considered necessary.
To slide the engine in and out from under the car I used a sheet of linoleum that happened to be in the garage I was using, which worked very well. A creeper, etc. will work but you will have to jack the car up a few inches higher.
A small collection of wood blocks is useful for drifts (hitting the end of the axle) as well as jacking the car up, which often has to be done in two stages.
A pry bar is very useful for things like popping the driver's-side axle out and, well...prying on things.