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I am soon to move into my new house and i have a one car garage its 20" x 12.5". Now i am planing to do my engine rebuild and other things in there this winter and i live in canada so it gonna be real cold.
How do i insulate the garage so i can heat it up effectivly and efficiently, I may run a heating duct from my house into the garage. How do i not have all the heat escape.
I have a garge door with belt drive opener and i assume thats where most of the heat will escape.
Any elp here would be appreciated
trini
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well if your not going to be goin in and out of the garage with a car(opening and closing the door) they make this heat stuff that looks basically like kitchen plastic wrap i know my parents used it for the windows in the house in pittsburgh it helpedout a lot, other wise get some waetehr stripping A LOT of weather stripping OR get a space heater that you can turn on when your in there.
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1991 nx2000:Black:Wrecked:Sold
1992 nx2000:White: Sold
1993 nx2000 :Electric blue:Sold
its not who you do in life, its who you leave behind. Jerry James Hays 9/1/1982-5/14/2006 Danielle Wilson 2/10/07
well if your not going to be goin in and out of the garage with a car(opening and closing the door) they make this heat stuff that looks basically like kitchen plastic wrap i know my parents used it for the windows in the house in pittsburgh it helpedout a lot, other wise get some waetehr stripping A LOT of weather stripping OR get a space heater that you can turn on when your in there.
yes i would be going in and out of the garage, very frequently thats part of the problem
Just get a space heater (propane) and then make sure you have a good door seal around your garage. Close the door in the day and turn off the lights and you can see exactly where your air drafts will come from.
I am also going to try and somehow attach insulation to the backside of my garage door to help with the extreme cold here in Utah.
yes i was exploring it and i could put a rubber seal on the out side of the garage door (not inhibiting opening and closing) and also on the bottom so when the door closes it seals.
the seal is basically weather stripping. you should also look into putting the insulating foam board up on the walls. it's big sheets so it won't take as long as strip insulation. if you get a space heater that will do fine, but the more you keep the heat in....the less you have to pump out. put the strips around the door, put up some kind of insulation, and you should be fine
I wouldn't connect the garage to the house heat. No matter what you do, it's just not going to insulate like your house and you will lose a lot of house heat through the garage.
You need to insulate all the walls (are the studs exposed, or covered with drywall?) and cover them with dry wall (unless you like brushing against fiberglass). Seal the outer edge of the garage door and insulate the entire door. If it's a wooden door with studs, then I would insulate it like the walls and cover the insulation with some light plywood or something (sheet rock is too heavy). You will probably want to buy new springs because the door will be heavier.
You might also want to put a rug or something down on the floor. The concrete will suck the heat out of the garage in the wintertime unless you get those lamps that heat the floor.
A space heater will probably work the best for cheap.
What type of heating do you have in your house? Let me know Ill try my best to help you out. Im a HVAC(I install air condition, heating, and ventolation)
What type of heating do you have in your house? Let me know Ill try my best to help you out. Im a HVAC(I install air condition, heating, and ventolation)
i have a gas heating central heat through out the house, is that whas you refering too?
Shoot for keeping it above freezing, anything above 32F is totally machine friendly. Dress warm and you are all set.
You can get garage door trimmings without inventing anything. local lumberyard can set you up with correct edge and botton seals meant for these doors.
insulating an old door not engineered to accept it is problem. Worst problem is air leaks so seals are best start. If its a hollow metal door with no back skin then you can rig some pink board insulation but its a tiny gain overall.
Insulating plywood inner faces of walls/ceiling is OK. Cover with staples up tyvek - white construction fibrous vapor barrier sheeting, it staples right up and keeps fiberglas and dust inside the cavity, and is about as good as white paint for illumination.
Not sure about adding heat, I dont have it myself in garage. Mine is unattached. If you dont like the cold in NH you are in wrong place. Car projects go on hold from christmas to mid march.
Whatever you do not cover with tyvek, paint white ecept for floor and bench.
Next step, good lighting, over a good bench.
I use 49 cent compact florescent screw in bulbs in surface mount fixtures, spaced about every 2 feet, 2 feet out from bench wall. Also one large florescent cieling fixture, 4$ each at local salvage shop, one over car roof, one in front of each car bay. CFT lights up in rafters too. Cheap as dirt $wise, takes some time to get set up. with everything on its about 400 wattts in my place and real bright.
Build a bench 2x times as large as you think you need, with 2x6 and 3/4 ply with a full length shelf underneath. Surface it with architectural carpet tiles from salvage place. Wiremold outlets along front edge, vice on one corner. Cut bench with 30 inward inward slant from planform view. Then run 16" deep shelves around perimeter 16" down from cieling. Put in floor to cieling shelves wherever you can, shot for max of 75% shelf space in use.
Then go to Costco and buy Stainlesss Steel rollaway toolboxes, I use 2 setups per garage, one for tools one for parts. I use the slant front ones that cost $400 usd all in each.
This sounds like a 12-1500 project for everything including SS rollaways. Take a good week of solid work. Plus a couple of chairs to sit in, I can fit adirondack style plastic lawn chair with beer can hole in one arm. and a cooler. And a small old receiver with speakers up on a shelf. Best room in house and the cheapest by fartor of about 20.
If your garage is mostly unfinished, as in, the outside walls are not sheetrocked, I would at least insulate those, then put up styrofoam sheets on top of that and lastly your wall board. I wouldn't use drywall, I'd use that 3/8" thick OSB that has an MDF type woodgrain finish that's prepainted. It's typically used for soffits but would be perfect in a garage. Or better yet, use fiberglass panels like you see used in commercial bathrooms in gas stations, etc. If your outside walls are unfinished, you could also consider furring the wall out deeper and then insulating and putting up wall board. If you can afford the slightly decreased dimensions of the garage that would be a good way to increase the R value of those outside walls. You could even do that in a finished garage, just build another wall over the old, insulate and wall board. Also, consider blowing in some cellulose insulation in the attic above the garage if that's how your house is laid out. If you have rooms above the garage then you've got no problems there, there won't be any heat loss to the house since it will be warmer than the garage. You might be able to run a supply duct to the garage and install a damper so you can shut it off when not in use so cold air doesn't flow back into the duct, although, in the winter, with the heat on, your house will be higher pressure than the outside, so it's not like cold air comes in, it's that warm air gets out. You could buy those Johns Manville plastic wrapped batts and hang them in front of your garage door inside the garage. It'd be crude but if you could keep them tight together it'd make it like the door isn't even there from a thermal standpoint. Fact is, there's no neat and easy way to keep a garage warm. It really takes design forethought before the thing was built. Thick outside walls, radiant heat in the concrete, styrofoam boards put down before the concrete is poured, a seperate HVAC system or just a heater, etc. Considering the cost of natural gas anymore, and the expense of a lot of the options available to you, an electric furnace might be a very cost effective choice. There's no exhaust gases to vent out, and there'd be little to no duct runs since you'd essentially build a closet and put the thing in there, you wouldn't even need to hire an HVAC guy to put it in if you weren't going to be doing A/C with it (sorry nismo1997).
yes i was exploring it and i could put a rubber seal on the out side of the garage door (not inhibiting opening and closing) and also on the bottom so when the door closes it seals.
Now i am looking for the correct material to use.
Anymore suggestions
Yep, go to Home Depot and buy this:
Apply it like this:
This was my gap in the middle before (sorry about the poor focus):
And at the bottom before:
No gap in middle after:
No gap at bottom after:
Its a little harder to open & close now, but I'm ready for the cold winds.
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Tim Rogers
'93 NX2K- Sapphire Blue, HS Gen 4, JWT S3's, Ported & Polished, P/R CAI, JUN Flywheel, Coil-over / AGXs, 15X7 RPO-2's, 205/50/15's.
'91 NX2K- Black, parts car
'92 NX2K- All out SCCA Improved Touring A race car.
Yes, it's Greg Amy's former car.
And yes, I've broken it...
whats this? any links to wher i can get it or what it is?
OK, go to Home Depot [Oh, you're in Canada, so you could go to Canadian Tire, Tim Horton's, whatever... ;-) ] at Home Depot in the Garden / Seasonal department along with all of the fireplace stuff, they sell Vent-Free Gas Heaters:
This is last year's model, the new ones look much cooler - black and polished machine tooled metal.
They are Vent-Free, meaning that you don't need any exhaust for them. If the oxygen content in your garage (usually around 21.5%) drops below 18-19%, the unit has a specially designed pilot light that will shut the unit off before the O2 content gets so low that it would start to make dangerous amounts of carbon monoxide. Since any time you burn a hydrocarbon (Natural Gas, Propane, Gasoline) the by-products are carbon dioxide and water vapor, so I would recommend having a dehumidifier so that the water vapor does not condense on everything.
i would insulate with fiber glass batting with an r30 value, do the walls and cealings, then get expanding foam and go fill cracks around windows and doors were you could not fit in the batting, get heavy vapour barrier go over the cealing and walls tuck tape all around every plastic joint, outlet boxes, lights, any place you had to cut to make a hole to stop air flow. then cover it with what ever you like as long as it meets local builing codes. .never know might have some as hole neighbor call the city on you and have a visit from the inspector thinkingg your building an illegal sweet or some thing, i know that one well from doing work on friends places.
cant do much with a garage door other than use a good weather striping around it to keep a tight as posible seal as you can to stop air movement.
to keep the place warm i would use a cheep electirc base bord heater 6' long and only keep it around 10* to keep the chill out when your not working in there and turn it up when you are wont take long to bring it up to 15- 20* its much cheeper to use that type of heating in a grage in sted of trying to keep it warm with the main source of heat from the house.
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279 hp @ 17psi
Nx 2000 : It sticks to the road like bubble gum to hot asphalt
Jerry James Hays 9/1/1982-5/14/2006
