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Melissa, ONLY a GIRL would trip out on the fragrance of this stuff (I'M TEASING I'M TEASING - don't hit me!)
Jer
Actually, the reason Poorboy's products are scented is because many detailers (most of who are in fact men ) complained about the nasty odors of most detailing products. So, when the creator (I think his name's Jeff, but his nick on the detailing forums is just "Poorboy") was formulating the products, he added fragrance. Most Poorboy's devotees appreciate it, although every now and then I hear someone say they smell too strong.
Seriously, try the EX-P, it's like being at the beach.
Pinnacle spray wax is the same way. It smells like suntan lotion. Zaino car wash smells like bubble gum, and the polish smells liek something good too, just can't remember off hand.
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1996 200SX SE-R VE powered
1991 Sentra SE-R
2004 Subaru Forester turbo
2006 Mitsubishi Evolution IX
Actually, the reason Poorboy's products are scented is because many detailers (most of who are in fact men ) complained about the nasty odors of most detailing products. So, when the creator (I think his name's Jeff, but his nick on the detailing forums is just "Poorboy") was formulating the products, he added fragrance. Most Poorboy's devotees appreciate it, although every now and then I hear someone say they smell too strong.
Seriously, try the EX-P, it's like being at the beach.
Oh I love the EX-P.
__________________ NOT SR20 POWERED northeastcoatings.net - all of your powdercoating needs.
Next dumb question - Poorboys lists the polish/carnauba and doesn't say anything about application of ex or exp afterwards, and doesn't warn folks about putting ex or exp on top of existing wax. Melissa, you note above not to put exp on top of wax or it will haze. Did I miss a spot on their website with detailed directions?? Or did you find this out the hard way?? :-)
THX
Jer
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'93 B13, etc.
If you don't have the patience
to do it right the first time,
how is it you have the time to
do it over and over again?
FYI, Mezerna now has a similar formula to Klasse All-In-One, it's supposed to be like FMJ + final polish in one bottle.
The Mezerna acrylic spray sounds like diluted FMJ in a spray bottle, says it has the same stuff in it, so you can come back and layer it on top of FMJ, and re-apply after waxing for a quick touchup that will continue to last.
jerryeads - carnauba should be the final topcoat if you choose to apply it. Your polymer acrylic sealant goes down first, then you can walk away or add carnauba on top. Some combinations are not recommended because they tend to haze a bit, you come off better sticking with just the polymer or just the wax after your glaze. Carnauba seems to give a richer deeper shine, but the acrylic stuff is certainly brighter and lasts WAY longer.
I have a white car, so it's quite easy for me - FMJ all the way, gotta love 6 month shine & protection.
I'd suggest getting a little bit and trying one on half the hood, the other half with just carnauba and compare, then add some carnauba on top of the exp/fmj and see what you like best. With the PC it only takes a few minutes to go back and polish off everything and reapply your preference.
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Sweet '93 NX DE+T GT28RS- For Sale
Thanx Rob. Should have asked this final q in the last post but forgot: given I don't HAVE this stuff yet and I'm in the middle of cleaning and polishing with the old stuff (Meguiars), can I just wash off a wax coat with detergent before I lay down the acrylic, or should I re-polish the car with the pc??
THX
Thanx Rob. Should have asked this final q in the last post but forgot: given I don't HAVE this stuff yet and I'm in the middle of cleaning and polishing with the old stuff (Meguiars), can I just wash off a wax coat with detergent before I lay down the acrylic, or should I re-polish the car with the pc??
THX
Well, ideally you would polish to remove any swirls, marring and etching. If you don't you'll be sealing it in. If you don't have time to polish, at least clay bar first. That will remove old wax and other contaminates that you don't want to seal in.
Ah - That's what I wanted to know. polish removes the old wax. Done when the time comes. Should be ordering my first batch of poorboys stuff in a day or so. And I do have clay - Mothers, but it's clay. Cool stuff, indeed.
Ah - That's what I wanted to know. polish removes the old wax. Done when the time comes. Should be ordering my first batch of poorboys stuff in a day or so. And I do have clay - Mothers, but it's clay. Cool stuff, indeed.
Mother's clay is good clay, especially for a car that's never been clayed before. Clays come in different "grains". Mother's leans towards coarse, as does Meguiars (I think Meguiars clay falls apart too fast). Keep in mind that even though we call it "coarse", it's still very, very fine particles that will not harm your paint when used properly. Coarser clays are good for picking up large particles or a high quantity of contaminates from your paint. Finer clays, like the Sonus Green, are great for picking up contamination on a monthly basis while being very, very gentle on your paint.
When you clay, be sure that the surface is adequately lubricated at all times, or you will scratch your paint. You don't have to use the "clay lubes" on the market either, clean soapy water works fine too. Just make sure it's CLEAN! Take your bar, cut it in half, and flatten it out to fit your palm. Keep the paint surface wet, and glide the clay in the direction wind blows across the surface (helps to keep down on marring). If the clay doesn't seem to be gliding across the surface easily, then you need more soapy water or clay lube. Check the clay periodically, pick out any hard bits that get stuck in it, and when it looks dirty, re-mold it to get a clean surface. You can keep re-using the clay until you can't get a clean surface out of it any more. I use half a clay bar at a time, and each half lasts me through 3 or 4 cars.
Oh, if you drop your clay at any time, THROW IT OUT! This is a huge mistake people make. Once you drop it on the ground, you'll never be able to get all the junk out of it, even if it looks like you've picked out all the dirt. Save your paint, and buy another clay bar.
Let's say that I need to do 2 vehicles. There has been nothing done to them in years other then the daily driver being washed. One is garage kept and the other is the daily driver. The paint is still VERY glossy and deep on both. Should I follow these steps in this order?
- Wash car with Dawn or something to strip the old wax
- Dry
- Clay bar (thinking of Griots cleaning wax with Speed Shine)
- Polish (some brand that is easy to work with by hand or machine, or a Mothers system)
- Sealant (thinking Griot's as it is a sealer and light polisher, , or a Mothers system)
- Wax (Griots best of show wax or something that kicks butt, or a Mothers system)
I want something that has an incredible amount of depth, longevity and durability. The garage kept car is Super Black and the daily driver is Silver Clearcoat.
__________________
'92 Super Black Se-r w/ just mods - SOLD
'91 Super Black Se-r stock (for now )
"I'm more afraid of being nothing then I am of being hurt."
Dishwasher soap strips more that wax.It acutally strips you clear coat after a while.Only use car wash soap with cleaner wax or compound to get rid of old wax
__________________
Innovation distinguishes between a leader and a follower
Dishwasher soap strips more that wax.It acutally strips you clear coat after a while.Only use car wash soap with cleaner wax or compound to get rid of old wax
I'm talking about only washing it for the one time, in the beginning.
Dishwasher soap strips more that wax.It acutally strips you clear coat after a while.Only use car wash soap with cleaner wax or compound to get rid of old wax
Didnt realize that. Hmm, thanks for the heads up Kesi24.
Ster, I have a DA Orbital in the closet that I didnt even think of using last night. DOH!
__________________
Blair
93 P10
"For I know the plans I have for you," declares the LORD, "plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future." - Jeremiah 29:11 (NIV)
Let's say that I need to do 2 vehicles. There has been nothing done to them in years other then the daily driver being washed. One is garage kept and the other is the daily driver. The paint is still VERY glossy and deep on both. Should I follow these steps in this order?
- Wash car with Dawn or something to strip the old wax
- Dry
- Clay bar (thinking of Griots cleaning wax with Speed Shine)
- Polish (some brand that is easy to work with by hand or machine, or a Mothers system)
- Sealant (thinking Griot's as it is a sealer and light polisher, , or a Mothers system)
- Wax (Griots best of show wax or something that kicks butt, or a Mothers system)
I want something that has an incredible amount of depth, longevity and durability. The garage kept car is Super Black and the daily driver is Silver Clearcoat.
Depends if you have any fine scratches, swirl marks, etch. A polish is an abrasive compound. The condition of the paint dictats how abrasive a polish you want to use, if any. Check out the links in this thread, they have alot of good information.
Dishwasher soap strips more that wax.It acutally strips you clear coat after a while.Only use car wash soap with cleaner wax or compound to get rid of old wax
Dishwashing detergent can be dangerous to paint if not used properly. Dish detergent will remove old wax, and it will also take some of the oils out of your paint. This isn't a problem if you replace what was lost by following up with a conditioning shampoo, a glaze, a non-abrasive polish, or a carnauba based wax.
) complained about the nasty odors of most detailing products. So, when the creator (I think his name's Jeff, but his nick on the detailing forums is just "Poorboy") was formulating the products, he added fragrance. Most Poorboy's devotees appreciate it, although every now and then I hear someone say they smell too strong.
Zaino car wash smells like bubble gum, and the polish smells liek something good too, just can't remember off hand.
