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Go Back   SR20 Forum > Main Forums > Garage Tips & Tricks



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Old 01-22-2006, 10:39 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Cheap torque wrench useless?

A while ago I bought a cheap torque wrench ($20 at a local auto store). Now it seems that when I torque my lug nuts to an indicated 75lbs-ft of torque it doesn't seem like I'm putting that much force. I'd like to think I'm getting stronger, but it's probably the wrench becoming miscalibrated. Does that happen? If I need a new one, anybody know of a decent one under $70 that they'd recommend?

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Old 01-22-2006, 10:41 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The Husky's from Home depot are around $50 and are pretty accurate. I have mine checked at work regularly and they are within 2%.
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Old 01-22-2006, 10:53 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Have you been returning it to zero when it's not in use? If you don't do that, it will destroy a cheap wrench quickly.

(you should do this with the expensive ones too, of course)

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Old 01-22-2006, 11:25 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I've been using a Husky torque wrench for years. The best part is that they have a lifetime waranty. If the wrench is out of calibration, call them and they send you a new one. Craftsman wrenches only have a 1 year warranty.
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Old 01-22-2006, 11:47 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spnx
Have you been returning it to zero when it's not in use? If you don't do that, it will destroy a cheap wrench quickly.

(you should do this with the expensive ones too, of course)

James
dead on.

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Old 01-22-2006, 03:32 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I have two craftsmen ones and they work excellent. I need to get them calibrated though it's been a while.
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Old 01-22-2006, 06:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks for the advise. I never knew you had return it to its base setting after each use. I also went out and got a Husky, it was $70. But I can already tell it is MUCH better than the POS I had before. Thanks again!

-Nic
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Old 02-26-2006, 12:52 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Old thread, but worth mentioning: the Craftsman's torque wrenches do *not* hold well. I am on my third, and all three have broken similarly. The handle and lock/unlock is made of plastic, so you can't stand to drop them at all. I generally handle such tools with care, but something that cost you $60-70 should be able to withstand an accidental drop. The only reason I'm on my 3rd is due to warranty: and yes only 1yr.

They're picky about their return policy on them as well: you must present a sales receipt for return. Since mine was a gift, I bought a new one, and returned my old one for my money back. F. 'em.
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Old 02-26-2006, 10:44 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Go find yourself a SnapOn or Matco on Ebay. I use a 'real' wrench for 75 lbs and down (I haven't redone a motor yet); that covers virtually everthing on these cars except the driveshaft nuts; I bought a REAL cheapo from Harbor Freight for that every now and then purpose. I hate to say it, because they've made okay stuff for a long time, but for torque, you don't want to skimp by using Sears. You'll find older click Snap-ons for less than a new Sears; just take it to your friendly local neighborhood SnapOn dealer (just chase him down in his truck) for calibration. You'll have a good as new piece when it comes back. THESE guys have a REAL lifetime warranty.
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Old 02-26-2006, 01:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I agree: my buddy has a Harbor Freight torque wrench for lug nuts/etc.

I have to play devils advocate here though too: do you really need an expensive torque wrench for bolts(like flywheel bolts) requiring 114ft-lbs of torque? I mean even a cheap torque wrench is only going to be off what, like 5lbs at worst? I would think that the high end wrenches are far more important for the small stuff, like cam journal bolts, who need like 9.6ft-lbs, where accuracy is much more important.
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Old 02-26-2006, 06:06 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Ive seen torque wrenches be off by 10-14 ft-lbs . Storing them compressed ids the fastest way to kill them. Remember the sensing element is the spring, so once the spring goes (wears down) it needs replacement.
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Old 02-26-2006, 06:29 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Wow, that much. I've never seen/had one calibrated, so I had no idea. And yes I always store mine at the lowest setting/unlocked.
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Old 03-06-2006, 09:43 PM   #13 (permalink)
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how long will staying compressed kill it? I unfortunately have left mine sitting at 10 ft-lbs for i'd say 6 months. Do I need to check this out and how?
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Old 03-07-2006, 07:30 AM   #14 (permalink)
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A flywheel ESPECIALLY - no less than the crank or rod caps, should have the attention of an accurate wrench. If you have a snap-on or matco or some such high-end brand, just run one of the guys in the trucks down (not literally) and they'll send it in to the factory for calibration. People who build for a living will send their wrenches in once a year if not twice. If you've left your wrench spun up for six months, I guarantee you've compressed the spring. Send it in for calibration.
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Old 03-07-2006, 02:03 PM   #15 (permalink)
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since I happen to run a calibration lab I will give everyone some tips

1) always store the wrench at the zero setting
2) before using the wrench set to the maximum setting and exersize the wrench
then set to the desired setting
3) don't buy craftsman they are junk
4) always use the right size wrench for the job(duh)
5) don't use your wrench as a hammer(duh)

I calibrate all of my wrench to 1.5% of full scale clock wise only. I have found that husky,proto, and cdi are cheaper alternatives to snap-on wrenches. For most uses you don't need anything more accurate than 3%.
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Old 03-07-2006, 02:34 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric96ser
Craftsman wrenches only have a 1 year warranty.
so, every 11 months, chop a cinder block into tiny pieces with the craftsman and go get a new one

thats what I am going to do
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Old 03-07-2006, 05:42 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Will using the wrench CCW (bringing an overtorqued fastener down, or loosening one, etc.) affect its calibration? I always wondered, and so I've never used my wrenches any way but CW.

David
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Old 03-07-2006, 08:25 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pertuzian
Will using the wrench CCW (bringing an overtorqued fastener down, or loosening one, etc.) affect its calibration? I always wondered, and so I've never used my wrenches any way but CW.

David

you can use a torque wrench counter clockwise. I never calibrate them ccw because we produce nothing that uses left hand threads. you do not want to use your torque wrench as a racket. that increases wear on the wrench and can cause the settings to drift.
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Old 03-07-2006, 08:40 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Always happy to hear from an expert, cortrim. Since it's been a long time since I had my shop and fixed for a living -- I'd forgotten that the protos stood up well back then, glad to hear they still do; also good to hear that husky and cdi are reasonable alternatives. Happily as I noted snap-ons can be found on ebay for reasonable prices - except those new-fangled electronic things Have you seen any of those in your shop yet?
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Old 03-08-2006, 01:47 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerryeads
Always happy to hear from an expert, cortrim. Since it's been a long time since I had my shop and fixed for a living -- I'd forgotten that the protos stood up well back then, glad to hear they still do; also good to hear that husky and cdi are reasonable alternatives. Happily as I noted snap-ons can be found on ebay for reasonable prices - except those new-fangled electronic things Have you seen any of those in your shop yet?
I have not seen a digital unit yet. I bet they suck to verify. I have a auto loader so they should not be too bad. I use proto and cdi torque wrenches at home. I also have a husky wrench as well. I like the proto unit the best.
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