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Intake mount Engine lift bracket for V8.........$15.95
Not having to deal with a @#$%*$#@%* chain that @#$*%#$*@# slips and no place to hook it to............PRICELESS!!!!!
Just clean up an old valve cover, drill 4 holes for the bracket, and remove the baffles on the underside to put bolts through. Hole to rear of engine lifts eng/trany flat, hole in center lifts eng flat, hole to front of eng lifts trany down for easier in and out.
For those of us who must make due with a hoist.
__________________ If I duz it, I ***** get a wipp'n.......Ok, I duz it!
A chain is only as strong as its weakest link, in this case it is as strong as the smallest diameter of any single link. Just four of the little valve cover bolts are stonger than any engine lifting chain. Just four little 5/16" carb mount bolts are used to lift big block V8's with these tools every day. I have lifted several engines(sr's) with only 4 bolts without a problem, but it would be best to use them all. With all nuts on and the load spread out all around, this is very strong.
In a day or two I'll put this on my wrecked NX2000 to pull the motor. I will pick the whole front of the car off the ground with it and get a picture to post here.
But hey, in the end you gotta go with what makes you happy, right?
P.S. here's a couple of shots of the swaps I used to do, thats a 1790 cubic inch air-cooled 1100hp v12 diesel engine....and thats a guy reaching under all 18,700lbs. of it as it hangs from some cables.....and they say I'm crazy.
Its not the size of the bolts holding it onto the VC that Im worried about, its the VC failing under a load that its not designed to take. We dont have nice cast steel/alunimum valley intakes with 12 or so 7/16 bolts holding it on like V8's do.
The VC to head attachments are just little tabs of cast aluminium....thats what I would be concerned with.
Its not the size of the bolts holding it onto the VC that Im worried about, its the VC failing under a load that its not designed to take. We dont have nice cast steel/alunimum valley intakes with 12 or so 7/16 bolts holding it on like V8's do.
The VC to head attachments are just little tabs of cast aluminium....thats what I would be concerned with.
But, hey, it worked for you
That's what I was getting at, but I don't work with metal everyday. I'm glad it worked for him, but I'm not so sure about trying it.
I usually use 2 12mm bolts screwed into either side of the head. One on the front above where the alternator is. The other on the opposite side between the distributor and the TB. Just make sure they thread in far. Bolting into the side of the head means you're using 1/2-1" worth of well cast Al surrounded by a lot more Al.
The VC is a weakly cast chunk of Al with a fair amount of porosity. I would say the weak link is where the 4 bolts go through the VC. I would put some really wide washers on there. I would say that Al VC isn't much stronger than a plastic one. It's only meant to look cool and hold oil in. Plus, you can break VC bolts with only 20lb-ft of force. While they probably have a decent amount of shear strength, it's nowhere near what a good chain is rated for, especially the threads in the Al.
Use a load leveler, it's way better. You can pick the tranny up and put it in at the same time. Less work.
i think there is enough bolts on the head holding down the valve cover to support the weight of the motor, but i still think i would only use it to pull the stock de, seein as there junk anyway, Still HELL AWESOME IDEA
__________________
94 Aztec Red Sentra
Gtir Motor Swap with S3M Cams Love Fab Turbo Manifold
and a 3in turbo back.
Turbonetics 60-1 With a PWR Water to Air Intercooler
JWT Ecu 72lb program with Z32 MAF
Running a P11 Tranny with LSD and a JGY locking Insert
All Rolling on Drag DR20s and Ksports.
Best time of 2006 12.4 @ 111mph with a 1.87 60' only running 14psi
Actually, for my next prototype, I plan to make two large single hole brackets from 1/2" aluminum plate and weld one to either end of the valve cover, about as far apart as the chains will be on the engine leveler I plan to order tommorrow.
Did you mean around the valve cover? The old one was glued on with about two whole tubes of the orange junk, and painted a horrible red while still on the motor.
The VC is a weakly cast chunk of Al with a fair amount of porosity. I would say the weak link is where the 4 bolts go through the VC. I would put some really wide washers on there. I would say that Al VC isn't much stronger than a plastic one. It's only meant to look cool and hold oil in. Plus, you can break VC bolts with only 20lb-ft of force. While they probably have a decent amount of shear strength, it's nowhere near what a good chain is rated for, especially the threads in the Al.
Use a load leveler, it's way better. You can pick the tranny up and put it in at the same time. Less work.
i think there is enough bolts on the head holding down the valve cover to support the weight of the motor, but i still think i would only use it to pull the stock de, seein as there junk anyway, Still HELL AWESOME IDEA
It's a good idea, until the valve cover, or the bolts fail, and the engine that is a few feet off the ground, falls on the car, or you. I'd much prefer to do it the hard way, and use the 2 bolts in the head, and drop the motor, insead of puling it. That's just me though.
I dont see whats so hard about bolting a chain to the head at two adjacent points. Ive done a motor drop and install by myself with no problems at all.
I just would not trust a thin section of sand casted aluminum to support a load like that. It'll probably work a few times, but when it fails it will fail without warning. Dont like the idea of an engine falling on my head.
Where are you guys putting two bolts in the head ? Or are you using bolts that are already there?
dude, closely examine the sides of your head. There are tons of bolt holes you can use to bolt the chain up and most, if not all, the thread sizes/pitches are the same.
